bewildered by Condar catalytic-probe thermometer

[RustyShackleford]

I managed to break my Condar catalytic thermometer (when loosening up the nuts that hold it together, attempting to reset the "cold" or "zero" position), and I can't figure out how to re-assemble it (in such a way that it works properly, without the coil getting loose and not staying in position). I'm hoping someone with a new or properly-assembled one can clue me in.

Attached is a photo of the mostly disassembled unit - with the pieces in sequence. The center post still has a big flat washer with nuts secured on either side of that. The coil sits on top of that. Then there's another nut (just like the two securing the big washer). Then the faceplate with the temperature scale, and a washer and capnut that secure it to the top of the post.

I can't figure out what's supposed to hold the center/inside of the coil in a fixed position on the post (so that the thermometer doesn't lose its "zero" setting). It comes down to the one nut (that's loose in the photograph). It won't tighten down against the top of the coil securely - it wants to go down inside it, so the coil is still not tight. It seems kind of like there ought to be another washer there, but there's not (even on an old one I have lying around, where the coil is also loose). But if there was a washer on top, then it and the big one on the bottom would be gripping most of the coil (not just the inside/center) so it wouldn't be free to move properly.

Maybe the end of the coil, on the inside, needs to be bent a little more than it is, so that it catches against the corners of the two nuts (the one on top of the big washer, and the loose one) ?

 

[RustyShackleford]

Adjusting the mystery nut (the one that's loose in the photo) so that it's about halfway down into the inside of the coil, seems to work. Its positioning must be pretty precise though, because it needs to be down in the coil a little, so that the inner end of the coil catches on a high spot on the nut, but not too far, otherwise when you tighten down the capnut on the indicator plate then the plate pushes against the top of the coil, inhibiting its free movement as temperature changes.

But the coil can still rotate over a short range, roughly 200 degrees' worth or so, so you have to push it as far clockwise as it'll go when setting the "zero".

I get the feeling I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be, but I'm not hearing any other answers from anyone here ...

 

[HarvestMan]

I would contact Condar directly and tell them the zero was off. I did this with one I had purchased for my prior stove last year and they sent me a replacement and did not even ask for me to send back the defective one.

 

[mellow]

I agree with contacting Condar, they have good customer service, my probe is different than yours, not sure if what I say would be correct. I know now not to mess with it.

 

[DTrain]

I would just like to say that "Rusty Shackleford" is an excellent handle. I had to laugh... Wasted tons of time watching that show. Dale was awesome.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Wasted tons of time watching that show.

'Wasted" ?!?

 

[DTrain]

'Wasted" ?!?

Yeah, maybe that's not the word!

 

[RustyShackleford]

They say it's broken (the coil, specifically its inner end) and I need a new one.

Is 3CX-2 the right model ?

 

[RustyShackleford]

And yes, Condar's customer service is awesome. I'm going to be real tempted to buy my new combustor from them (whenever I need one). They sell ceramic and steel ones (for BK Princess) and have an extensive write-up of why steel is better.

 

[HarvestMan]

And yes, Condar's customer service is awesome. I'm going to be real tempted to buy my new combustor from them (whenever I need one). They sell ceramic and steel ones (for BK Princess) and have an extensive write-up of why steel is better.

Some of the BK faithful may have been scared away from Condar by the "diesel foil" talk; if you can get a better price on the steel cat (than BK dealer network) and you can verify the cat element it is made by one of the quality manufacturers, go for it (Condar is simply a fabricator, they don't make the catalyst itself only the assembled final product - to my understanding).

 

[Highbeam]

Some of the BK faithful may have been scared away from Condar by the "diesel foil" talk; if you can get a better price on the steel cat (than BK dealer network) and you can verify the cat element it is made by one of the quality manufacturers, go for it (Condar is simply a fabricator, they don't make the catalyst itself only the assembled final product - to my understanding).

I heard the same thing. The condar supplied steel cat is not the durafoil.

 

[RustyShackleford]

I heard the same thing. The condar supplied steel cat is not the durafoil.

Yeah, I'm confused about the whole "diesel foil" thing, and posted a plea for clarification at that thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/steel-catalytic-combustor-for-a-blaze-king-ultra.145687/page-4

 

[edge-of-the-woods]

'Wasted" ?!?

Ithinkyouhavetostopusingthespacebarifyou'regonnausethathandle.

(I think you have to stop using the space bar if you're gonna use that handle.)

 

[HarvestMan]

Just posted this in the other steel cat related thread:

I have done business with Condar and have only good things to say about their products and customer service. Just today I had a nice phone conversation with Mike Whitt the Senior Vice President and Marketing Director at Condar Company regarding the quality of their steel cat products and this whole diesel foil topic. He stated that diesel foil is NOT used in their products. They do not reveal component suppliers as a matter of company policy.

My suggestion is not to be scared away from Condar because of the diesel foil talk in this thread. Give them a call, discuss your concerns and then make your decision.​