Big E Control Panel problems

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Lots and lots of good info here. But I sometimes I get confused 'cuz the poster tries too many things at once actually doing more damage and truly never finding what fixed the original problem. So...here is my problem.

I own a Breckwell Big E and 4 days ago the convection motor stopped cold. It had been squealing and grinding since I bought it so I know it was only a matter of time before it would seize. Just an FYI...the pellet stove was functional and operating as normal (I think) except for getting really hot when the convection motor failed. So hot I thought it might start my pellets in the hopper on fire. The combustion fan was working and pellet feed seemed to be working.

I bought a replacement motor (Dayton 3M548), installed it, plugged the unit in and turned it on. The convection fan cycled low and then full on which is not normal. I looked at the control panel and the green light was full on...not it's usual blinking (the blinking would stop once the unit got up to heat). The convection motor was blowing a good column of air but it was too much. Changing the heat index changes the speed but very little. #1 setting should be low...say about 1500 rpm's. #1 is more like 2700, #2, 2800, #3, 2900, and #4, 3000 (guessing on RPM). OK...so a fire is going...auger seems to be working but not feeding pellets as it would normally. Placed pellet feed on high...same as normal. On high it would be produce so much heat I would have to stand to the side of the stove. I then shut off the stove, the pellet feed stops feeding the burn pot as normal but the convection motor is still running even though the unit has cooled and powered off. Which forces me to unplug the stove...thus stopping convection motor.

Reading the info in my manual and here has led me to bypass both thermodisc's to which I have no different result. Air switch tube was clean, and opening the stove door shuts off the stove after 30 seconds (as excepted) but the convection motor still runs until I unplug the stove. I deduce that my problem could be the board but I really hope not. I did read of someone that can repair the control boards so I would try that option if needed but I want to make sure I've done all the necessary trouble shooting first.

So there ya go...help me. Whats next? Feel free to suggest away!

Ed-
 
I looked up the specs on the newly replaced motor.


Motor Type Shaded Pole
Enclosure Open Air-Over
Duty Continuous Air-over
HP 1/15
Nameplate RPM 3000
Voltage 115
NEMA/IEC Frame Nonstandard
Service Factor 1.0
Full Load Amps 2.2
Hz 60
Rotation CW
Insulation Class B
Ambient (C) 40
Number of Speeds 1
Mounting Stud
Bearings Sleeve
Thermal Protection Auto
Body Dia. (In.) 3.3
Shaft Dia. (In.) 5/16
Shaft Length (In.) 2
Length Less Shaft (In.) 4-3/16
Stud Location SE
Stud/Base Mtg. Pattern (In.) 2 x 2
Phase 1
RPM Range 2350-3600
Mounting Pattern 2
3.3"-Dia. Shaded Pole Motors

The items I highlited are most likely the issue with speed/power. The original motor is only around 1/40 HP and max RPM is 3000. Seeing this is a larger HP motor it has the ummh to spin the blower faster than the original. Seeing the blower is now faster the heat off the stove would be somewhat lower. Also the AMP draw is much higher than stock and this might cause issues with the control panels function. Normal amp draw for the stock blower is 1.2 AMP max on high. The motor you ordered is a full amp higher. Issues?? IDK, But I wouldn't have gone that large.
When you shutdown the stove it does take about 15 minutes to shutdown/cooldown. It will also do this when you first plug it in. The control is progerammed to run to be sure it is a cold stove wether the POF is closed or not.

If you still have issues, I would order the complete blower. The OEM Fasco number is 24220 and there are several places to purchase it. Here is a link, But there are several places you could order it from.

http://www.cshincorporated.com/adva...0&osCsid=ufg7e7mcb3dhp2c46qbcl9k5j2&x=11&y=15
 
I got that motor ‘cuz that’s what folks on here have used to replace the Fasco motor. Also, a call to local supplier Grainger said the Dayton motor was a listed replacement motor for the Fasco motor that I took out. However, I still have the old motor and actually cleaned and oiled it and got it to move free. So I unconnected the Dayton motor and plugged in the original Fasco motor and it behaves the same. I just don’t know about the CFM’s being as though it was just laying on the floor but I assume it would be similar to the Dayton motor albeit less amps and such. You really think the new motor would do that anyway with more amp draw? If so the board would get hot...yes?

To answer your question about powering…about 15 minutes to shutdown before I had problems. Now shut down is things turns off as normal but convection fan runs and doesn’t stop until I unplug the unit. When I plug it back in it starts right up and stays that way…never did that before. It would start up fast and then die down and then spin up again once the fire got hot enough. Typically when the stove starts the on green light will blink…this goes right to full on. Holding the button in for 5 seconds resets the board (so I’ve read) but it all it does is change my pellet feed back to normal.

So what else can I check to see where the problem lies or to just make the stove react differently?
 
The POF could be stuck closed, But you said you jumped it? Make sure the POF is open when stove is cool.

Then I would say the control board is damaged. Most likely the triac that controls the convection blower is toast. Could have been from the frozen motor or overlaoded by the new motor? IDK, as electronics can do strange things.

Can you solder?
 
Yup...jumped the POF...same thing. Jumped the other themodisc...same thing. Jumped 'em both at the same time...same thing. In jumping the POF...the case came off in my hand when pulling on the leads so I have to replace that regardless. It snaps back together but it's loose and I can't leave it that way.

Can I solder...ya...if its a 1/4 pipe or bigger...LOL! If it is the board (I'll wait to hear more comments first) I think I saw a name of someone that can do it on here. Probably give that avenue a try unless I can find a board cheap. Suggestions anyone? I think the comment I saw (and totally agree with) is why spend $300 to replace a $5 component. I'm somewhat familiar with this stuff due to a prior occupation. I use to layout e-schematics and PCBA's using Mentor PADS but mechanical design was done with SolidWorks...3D cad software. I now work for myself doing m and e design. Shameless plug here for myself in case anyone ever wants to turn there paper napkin sketches to the real deal. 774-230-4182 Digital Detail & Design

Anyhow...I'm thinking the frozen motor did the damage to the board as well. I'm hoping that's all it did! However...the pellet feed seems to be off timing too.
 
My control board went boots up this year. My convection fan would not come on and would not get up to speed. I asked Eric from Kinsman Stoves about it, and he recommended a new control board, cost me $238.00. My stove operates fine now.
 
Well...I shut down the stove and pulled the cord out of wall. The motor was very warm to a touchable hot. I suppose for now I could put a fan on it to keep it cool and quite possibly install a rheostat to control the voltage going to the convection motor. FYI...the sticker on the board read 401. No revision added or other sticker to be seen. I'll await more suggestions (if anyone has some) and report back when I can. Thanks for your help. Ed-
 
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