As those of us with the Polish boilers know, the factory manuals are....lacking. Theyreally aren't helpful after the instalation is done.. (Caveat- the new EKO manual is much better than the old manual).
So- I called Zenon to ask for the best settings. I specifically said I needed it for wood that is not as dry as it could be. For those of you who own a Biomax, the air adjustments are reight in front under the panel that seperates the chambers.
First close the sliding cover over the intake until it is open about 30%. Next. loosen the screws on the left side and swing the door open. The driver for these screws is the only tool you need.
The upper intake vents are for the primary chamber. Loosen up the wingnuts and close them until they are open about 30% on each side.
Tighten the wingnuts back up. These do get hot in operation, so wear gloves.
The lower intake vent is for the combustion (lower) chamber. Loosen up the wingnuts and close the vent until it is open 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Tighten up the wingnuts.
FWIW- when looking through your viewport at the combustion chamber, the flame should be bright. Blue is best, and bright orange is fine. A dull color means your lower intake vent needs to be adjusted.
Weekly Maintenance : For better operation, make sure you use the turbolator to clean the tubes and remove the ashes from there. This area is accessed by removing the small plate at the bottom of the boiler underneath the turbolator lever. I have opened this up and cleaned it while the machine is operating.
Beneficial Maintenance: After you have allowed the lower chamber to cool, open it up. Use a brush and vacuum to clean the ashes out that collect between the ceramic and the inside walls of the boiler. Zenon stated that this area is used to heat the water, and that ashes left there form an insulating effect that prevents heat transfer.
I would include opening up the machine top rear to clean the turbulators tubes by hand in this category, but by all accounts this is a yearly process.
Hope this helps. It did make a difference to my boiler in the abilty to come up to temperature a lot faster and maintain it.
So- I called Zenon to ask for the best settings. I specifically said I needed it for wood that is not as dry as it could be. For those of you who own a Biomax, the air adjustments are reight in front under the panel that seperates the chambers.
First close the sliding cover over the intake until it is open about 30%. Next. loosen the screws on the left side and swing the door open. The driver for these screws is the only tool you need.
The upper intake vents are for the primary chamber. Loosen up the wingnuts and close them until they are open about 30% on each side.
Tighten the wingnuts back up. These do get hot in operation, so wear gloves.
The lower intake vent is for the combustion (lower) chamber. Loosen up the wingnuts and close the vent until it is open 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Tighten up the wingnuts.
FWIW- when looking through your viewport at the combustion chamber, the flame should be bright. Blue is best, and bright orange is fine. A dull color means your lower intake vent needs to be adjusted.
Weekly Maintenance : For better operation, make sure you use the turbolator to clean the tubes and remove the ashes from there. This area is accessed by removing the small plate at the bottom of the boiler underneath the turbolator lever. I have opened this up and cleaned it while the machine is operating.
Beneficial Maintenance: After you have allowed the lower chamber to cool, open it up. Use a brush and vacuum to clean the ashes out that collect between the ceramic and the inside walls of the boiler. Zenon stated that this area is used to heat the water, and that ashes left there form an insulating effect that prevents heat transfer.
I would include opening up the machine top rear to clean the turbulators tubes by hand in this category, but by all accounts this is a yearly process.
Hope this helps. It did make a difference to my boiler in the abilty to come up to temperature a lot faster and maintain it.
