BK door gaskets

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Did you have to cut the gaskets to length?
 
I got whatever the BK dealer sold me.
Yep. It costs a bit more but I get OEM gasket now, I don't mess with the farm store or stove shop aftermarket stuff. There's low-,med- and high-density, and I figure the stove maker knows what works best in each application.
5. I was concerned about getting the gasket on the edge of the glass properly, centered so it folds down an equal amount on each side of the glass.
I totally re-gasketed the Buck, bay windows and all, about a week ago. I sat on a chair, held the glass between my knees and applied the tape gasket to the top edge of the glass. I held the tape between my thumbs and forefingers, one hand on each side of the glass so that my forefingers kept the tape centered on the edge of the glass (hard to visualize, I know.)

7. The door seal gasket was pretty straightforward.
The Buck door and ash pan gaskets are secured with silicone, not glue. I used the 700-degree copper stuff from the auto parts store. The gaskets seem to unravel at the cut ends, so this time I dabbed a little silicone on the ends of the door and ash pan gaskets. I didn't want too much on there, where it would harden into a solid blob, just wanted enough to keep the gasket from unraveling yet retain the ability to compress in the same way a plain gasket would.

"Meecos Red Devil Gasketing Cement and Stove Sealer". Pretty runny stuff
Good stuff. I've used it to patch the vertical seams in the fire boxes on a couple stoves, where I could see cement missing. It's just runny enough where it can get in the seams really well.
 
In a similar vein ... it looks like it might be nice to raise (the vertical position) of my door a hair, so that the flange on the stove body hits the gasket more in the center (it's not that far off, but could be better). Does anyone have recommendation for a specific washer to use ? Seems like it needs to have a fairly large hole with a very thin annulus (around the hole).
 
My door is raised by the use of plain machine washers from hd. I want to say 3/8"? Before this, the door was too low. I like the washers anyway.
 
My door was always a tad too low too, never thought of putting a washer to raise it a hair.
 
Ah I have a fairly decent fitting door. Not planning on raising it any (Unless I can find the perfect washers at work)

I suppose its easier to raise the door as opposed to lowering it. Maybe smart manufacturing?

And thanks for the info on the door and glass rope.
 
I suppose its easier to raise the door as opposed to lowering it. Maybe smart manufacturing?
Yeah, I thought of that too. It'd suck to need to lower it; would require removing some metal from the door or the stove body.
 
My door gasket hits fairly square. My only problem is my stove is new and I think I will need a gasket soon.

Had to tighten the latch a couple turns before my first fire then one more turn after the first couple fires.

My theory on this is that my stove was a floor model that I suspect occupied the same display spot at the stove shop for four years.

The door was likely opened and shut about as many times over the years as it would have been if it seen regular use. Probably more.
 
My door gasket hits fairly square. My only problem is my stove is new and I think I will need a gasket soon.

Had to tighten the latch a couple turns before my first fire then one more turn after the first couple fires.

My theory on this is that my stove was a floor model that I suspect occupied the same display spot at the stove shop for four years.

The door was likely opened and shut about as many times over the years as it would have been if it seen regular use. Probably more.


Always remember to lossen the latch catch bolt if you regasket the door. This will avoid premature wear (compression) of the new gasket.
 
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My door is raised by the use of plain machine washers from hd. I want to say 3/8"? Before this, the door was too low. I like the washers anyway.

When I said 3/8" that was the washer size, not the thickness. I only raised the door by the thickness of one machine washer. That plus regular massaging of the gasket seems to be giving a satisfactory tension on the latch.
 
I am having trouble getting my door latch adjusted, after replacing the gasket (plus the window gasket). After replacing the gasket, I backed the door latch way off (so as to avoid compressing the new gasket too much) and set it very loose - hardly any pressure required to rotate the latch handle. Even then, it passed the dollar bill test everywhere except on the lower edge towards the hinge side. I then tightened the latch a bit, but the dollar bill test is still VERY loose in that area. I'm not sure what to do. I don't see what I might have done so that the gasket is thinner in that area. Hopefully the door or the sealing flange on the stove body is not somehow warped. Seeking suggestions from BKVP or others ...
 
Rustybuddy....never had our door warp before, never. My guess is that as you placed the gasket somehow it got stretched in that section perhaps more than the rest of the area.

I know for fact there is always a little less tension in hinge side. So long the the door hold the bill and it does not fall out, you should be o.k.

Chris (Stuck in NY still!)
 
Chris (Stuck in NY still!)





once the L.I.E. Gets a grip on you it never lets go
 
That's why I didn't glue mine in. If you do happen to stretch it some in a area you can pull a do over real easy.
Rusty try taking a pick/finish nail and fluff up the gasket where it seems not to be sealing well.
 
Rustybuddy....never had our door warp before, never.
Yeah, just grasping at straws.
My guess is that as you placed the gasket somehow it got stretched in that section perhaps more than the rest of the area.
Yeah, that must be it.
I know for fact there is always a little less tension in hinge side.
Sure mine got like that with the old worn-out gasket (since tightening the latch only pulls one side of the door closer to the stove body).
So long the the door hold the bill and it does not fall out, you should be o.k.
It certainly doesn't fall out, just pulls out real easy. Thanks.

I will try fluffing up the gasket. Or, as Highbeam puts it, massaging it (I got a massage yesterday, and I needed it - never thought my stove might need one :).
 
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