What feature are you referring to i like the stoves and they are pretty good coal stoves and ok wood stoves but they are no where near as good as most new wood stoves i am sorry. But i agree that they look very good and for coal if you know how to burn it and have a barometric damper on them they work great.
Blast from the past: Estate Heatrola
- Thread starter privatejoker75
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Cawley Lemay: I listed its many features in my previous reply. Please read again. As I also said I didn't like using coal. Too much heat can ruin the grates, plus you generally have to let it go out for cleaning. Disposal of the ash and clinkers is a problem.
Other than those gigantic outdoor stoves that use the rediculous 42 inch logs I have seen no other stove that beats it by much and those that do use 16-24 inch logs so you can see that they use a minimum of thirty three
percent more fuel to do it. And, you use thirty three percent more effort to split and carry the wood. So much for the efficiency of the modern stove. This was designed at the time when all wood was cut by hand so it was even more important
to maximize return. I feel this is something that virtually everyone overlooks. As I said, I've had this for thirty some years and in all that time have cut and split my own wood. Never once bought any. I think I'd have been worn out by now
as are all my friends with supposedly efficient modern stoves.
I like that that while the outside is hot, your skin doesn't stick to it if you should touch it by accident. I like that it can burn indefintely without having to go out for cleaning. I know of no modern stove with such and ingenious and functional
convection system. At best they are all just cast iron boxes, at worst steel boxes lined with firebrick. This stove is a masterpiece of design, engineering and manufacturing that lazy cost cutting people nowadays simply cannot equal.
On the other hand, those pellet stoves can be pretty great apart from the obvious drawbacks: you have to buy the pellets and you have to plug them in!
What kind of stove do you have? What's your typical burn time? And of course, what length is you firewood? What's your favorite? Thanks for the reply. I hope to hear from you again.
Other than those gigantic outdoor stoves that use the rediculous 42 inch logs I have seen no other stove that beats it by much and those that do use 16-24 inch logs so you can see that they use a minimum of thirty three
percent more fuel to do it. And, you use thirty three percent more effort to split and carry the wood. So much for the efficiency of the modern stove. This was designed at the time when all wood was cut by hand so it was even more important
to maximize return. I feel this is something that virtually everyone overlooks. As I said, I've had this for thirty some years and in all that time have cut and split my own wood. Never once bought any. I think I'd have been worn out by now
as are all my friends with supposedly efficient modern stoves.
I like that that while the outside is hot, your skin doesn't stick to it if you should touch it by accident. I like that it can burn indefintely without having to go out for cleaning. I know of no modern stove with such and ingenious and functional
convection system. At best they are all just cast iron boxes, at worst steel boxes lined with firebrick. This stove is a masterpiece of design, engineering and manufacturing that lazy cost cutting people nowadays simply cannot equal.
On the other hand, those pellet stoves can be pretty great apart from the obvious drawbacks: you have to buy the pellets and you have to plug them in!
What kind of stove do you have? What's your typical burn time? And of course, what length is you firewood? What's your favorite? Thanks for the reply. I hope to hear from you again.
My cawley can burn non stop too I get at least 8 hours it uses 24" splits which means fewer cuts which to me is easier but that is debatable. I am by no means saying that heaterolas are not good stoves but my cawley is from the same era and it is much more efficient. If i had my choice of stoves and price was not an issue i would have a bk king or a regency 5100 for allot more burn time and heat output
What cost cutting are you referring to there is a whole lot more engineering that goes into a modern stove. And the heaterola was not exactly innovative in its day either it was just one of the last steps in the progression in design of the parlor stove which was quickly phased out soon after that buy other designs. And by the way if you really do get that long of burn times i am really impressed i have never heard of anyone getting over 4 or 5 hours out of one most get less unless they are burning coal and with a barometric damper they are pretty easy to controll when burning coal and dont over fire like you described.
If you are referring to my favorite wood that would depend on the outside temp when its really cold hickory or locust normally oak birch or ash. And when its mild cherry maple or what ever else i had to cut up i will burn pine walnut or whatever. If it falls and i have to cut it up i will burn it.
Last edited by a moderator:
BHoller - Certainly didn't mean to insult your old Cawley. I was not comparing mine to a crazy expensive Bk or other high end one like it for purely burn time Of course they will win on that score, partly because the firebox
is 2-3 times as big. I was just talking about the average one that most people buy, and yours and mine apparently are their equal.
The mid- range ones mostly don't have the cleanout tray and so go out for cleaning. Other than that, all are noticeably lacking in all the other features I mentioned, most importantly the inherent convection system with the heat
exchanger "donut", louvres, etc not to mention any sense of style. I know that's subjective BH, but hey... Other than the remarkably long burn which is great but very expensive, I remain unimpressed. Mostly just black boxes
sitting there in your living room.
In all these years though, I've never needed a thirty - forty hour burn. If you do, that's surely the way to go and I'd get one. I wonder how much heat they're giving off at a low burn though. Do you know?
I understand that you feel fewer cuts and making 24 inch wood is easier, but for me cutting is the easy part. Either way you have proved my point: Twice as much wood. I don't have a wood splitter so that bigger length would be too hard for me.
Where did you get your old stove? What model? Sounds like you're really into stoves. I used to be but stopped paying attention until now. You've revived my interest. Thanks.
is 2-3 times as big. I was just talking about the average one that most people buy, and yours and mine apparently are their equal.
The mid- range ones mostly don't have the cleanout tray and so go out for cleaning. Other than that, all are noticeably lacking in all the other features I mentioned, most importantly the inherent convection system with the heat
exchanger "donut", louvres, etc not to mention any sense of style. I know that's subjective BH, but hey... Other than the remarkably long burn which is great but very expensive, I remain unimpressed. Mostly just black boxes
sitting there in your living room.
In all these years though, I've never needed a thirty - forty hour burn. If you do, that's surely the way to go and I'd get one. I wonder how much heat they're giving off at a low burn though. Do you know?
I understand that you feel fewer cuts and making 24 inch wood is easier, but for me cutting is the easy part. Either way you have proved my point: Twice as much wood. I don't have a wood splitter so that bigger length would be too hard for me.
Where did you get your old stove? What model? Sounds like you're really into stoves. I used to be but stopped paying attention until now. You've revived my interest. Thanks.
You sound like me. Ever notice if you go outside when burning black locust it smells just like garbage burning. If you get a log of it that been cut just long enough for the bark to start falling off it's really slimy
underneath and truly smells like garbage. Probably not a good choice for a smoker!
I am a chimney sweep so i have to know about them i got my cawley lemay 600 free from a customer who burnt it without the combustion grid and baffle which cracked the top. I got the parts and rebuilt it they are great stoves with an early secondary combustion system. Yes i put more wood in mine per load but it puts out allot more heat than a heaterolla. And by the way i do like tho look of the heaterolas allot. I sell regencies and have sold a few now the customers are happy with them and say they put out good heat for atleast 15 hours. I don't personally have any knowledge of the bks but i hear they are fantastic.
I am surprised to heart that so many get only 4 or 5 hours. Some of that is probably the quality of wood, some maybe have that little flap air intake open on the upper door. That really does burn wood fast. This stove certainly requires
"high test". This is not a problem for me since I run the sawmill, 95 percent hardwoods, in a huge state park, 50,000 mostly wooded acres. I do not even transport a piece with an irregular shape that would mess up my woodpile;
Most modern products from ink pens to airplanes spend heavily on engineering. Products as conceived by engineering then undergo design reviews before production begins and at that point, if not sooner, serious cost cutting discussions
begin. Representatives of manufacturing, marketing, maybe sales and even outside vendors suggest measures that impact the final product. It is the norm, not the exception. Let's use this cheaper material, let's not include this or that,
most people will settle for this instead. It is exactly why the quality of so many things has declined. Excessive craftsmanship just had to be phased out and much engineering effort is focused on this minimalist approach : what is the least
we could do or use to achieve this. See what I mean? Things have to be made overseas, and cheaply. I mean jeez, it was this mentality that gave us planned obsolecense. It is why one of my toy guns from the fifties could be used
as a hammer to break pieces off a cheap modern table saw. The plastic of 100 years ago was cast iron. Look at the junk we have now. It is why we have tools that break and black box stoves in the lining room. Craftsmanship and elegance
is eliminatedwherever feasible. beginning with this casting mold - if casting is even used - because it cuts costs. The good modern ones certainly do work better than our old ones but most of them don't and most of them are just variations on a box.
Only a few actually inspire admiration. I don't know BH, maybe I really just like the Heatrola as art from a time when more overall quality and form rather than just efficiency was valued.That's just me. I don't wear hats or sunglasses
or use seatbelts either. I like revolvers and bolt actions too. No cheap metal stampings allowed.
I am curious how many modern stoves you have actually inspected played with and burnt. Most are not examples of cost cutting some absolutely are but most good stoves seem pretty intent on putting out the best quality stove they can most are made in north america out of good materials. And yes you can still get very pretty cast stoves and stone stoves but for basic functionality the plate steel ones are great. Yes most dont look that great but they are meant to heat and most do that very well if you know how to use them
Most new stoves are pretty good there are some crappy ones but i would say that most will out preform either of our stoves i am sorry. Also if you look at the parlor stoves from the time you stove was built they all look about the same just as in the 80s most look like fishers. That is just how it works Right now the majority are black boxes with a big glass door. I am by no means bashing you stove but until you have some real experience with a range of new stoves you should not bash them either. And i love my cawley but i am keeping my eye out for a nice modern stove at a good price to put upstairs. I want a modern one up there because of the massively reduced clearances increased efficiency ect. My cawley will still get used in the basement but the second one will be there to help out when needed And i am curious what wearing seat belts has to do with stoves. I cant understand why some one wouldn't wear one either but to each their own
Last edited:
that is always nice jags. Like i said i will be getting a modern stove for upstairs sooner or later
Good Info. I have a Heatrola that looks like this:
And on the door is a screen assembly that looks like this:
That's a metal screen with what used to be something like mylar over it, but it got brittle with age and tore and broke. Do I need to replace that mylar (or whatever it is) to use this thing to burn wood in my garage? What is that film, and what does it do? Given there are two holes below, I'm wondering how important it is that those screens be sealed off with that film.
Thanks for any insight you can provide. I just want to use this to heat my garage/shop while I'm working in it. I seem to have a steady supply of soft wood to feed it.
Last edited:
The 'mylar' like substance is most likely mica aka isinglass. It is definitely required for safe burning. You can still buy this online.
Note that having a wood stove in a garage is not permitted in many areas. Check local regs.
Note that having a wood stove in a garage is not permitted in many areas. Check local regs.
Thanks, begreen. I found some Mica (it's a little pricey) and ordered it. About 20 bucks delivered for two 4x5 pieces. And ordered some furnace cement to repair the cracks in the cast iron exhaust. We'll see how it goes. (Should I use that furnace cement to seal the joints in my chimney pipes?)
That makes me a bit nervous. Furnace cement will rarely stay in this type of repair. You might take the piece to a good custom automobile exhaust welder for a better repair if possible.
Similar threads
