Blaze king install....help!

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I've also called BK and talked to an older woman, she had the answers and was not afraid to give them. I did not expect an actual person to answer the phone.

Nothing wrong with any of the various wall treatments but do them for looks and some extra peace of mind, not because you think you must. I plan to one day glue on a rock veneer of some sort over that rear wall which will reduce the gap behind my stove even more but the first combustible surface will be 6" or more back.
 
Well, I was all set to do the install and found yet another section of class A chimney that was a different brand. Two sections were Selkirk and two were SuperPro something or another. Another 189 bucks down the drain. So while this stove has still been a steal, it is not quite as good as I thought.
 
Highbeam...dude, you have no idea the trouble you have caused me when you say "older woman"!!!! Then again, if you 21 years old, all the ladies here are older than you!

I am proud to say (and let this be a warning to all us stovies,) the ladies here are very, very sharp. They know every part, for every stove built since 1977. Some have welded, most can run circles around guys!

Chris


I've also called BK and talked to an older woman, she had the answers and was not afraid to give them. I did not expect an actual person to answer the phone.

Nothing wrong with any of the various wall treatments but do them for looks and some extra peace of mind, not because you think you must. I plan to one day glue on a rock veneer of some sort over that rear wall which will reduce the gap behind my stove even more but the first combustible surface will be 6" or more back.
 
LOL Walla Walla onions and wine makes for some strong and capable women. Not too bad looking either!
 
Highbeam...dude, you have no idea the trouble you have caused me when you say "older woman"!!!! Then again, if you 21 years old, all the ladies here are older than you!

I am proud to say (and let this be a warning to all us stovies,) the ladies here are very, very sharp. They know every part, for every stove built since 1977. Some have welded, most can run circles around guys!

Chris

Uh oh, let me try and back peddle. When a lady answers the phone at a corporate or 1-800 number you usually expect it to be some kind of intern or young person that is trying to get into the business. Maybe even a completely ignorant phone monkey in another country. That's not what happened, I did not get some greenhorn girl fresh off of the onion truck and still wet behind the ears. It was a knowledgable lady that answered my question and I was happy for it. Oh boy, maybe I owe somebody a present.

We can say I'm 21 but that was 15 years ago! I have no excuse, I didn't ask her name and the only way to identify her was from what I imagined based on our brief discussion.

How can I make it up to her?
 
She let me know that women are even doctors and lawyers these days!
 
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Blaze king is sitting in place and the OAK is hooked up. Just need to finish the stove pipe and a bit more chimney pipe plus the chase cover. I'm getting there!
 

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Thanks everyone for the advice...my install is complete...
 

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Congrats. Make that "almost" complete. I don't see a warm glow in that beast yet. ;)

Were you able to maintain 6" clearance for the stove pipe? I suspect that upper back wall is going to be hot.
 
The back wall is Durock with Roxul insulation. Also, there are no studs within 8 inches or more.

The warm glow is still a few weeks off. Amazingly, tomorrow in Southern Minnesota it is supposed to hit 94!
 
It certainly looks tight in the pic, and it is. The sides are right at code limit. Still, the back is pretty far off. It is about 11 inches whereas code is 6 and much of the stove is somewhat out of the cove, so I'm not concerned about the cove walls.

I'm very excited to run the King. It will be interesting running the stove I've been salivating over from the time I joined Hearth.com and seeing if it lives up to the hype. Well, I guess I shouldn't call it hype as we have many happy users on this forum, they aren't exactly salespeople just happy customers.
 
It'll do everything that its advertised to do! It's a great stove. I really miss mine sometimes. :(
 
Is the durock on wood or metal studs?
 
The beast sleeps peacefully in its new bed. Waiting to awake and heat da joint.

Have I ever mentioned that I love big honkin steel stoves?
 
Have you burned off the paint? That would be a great excuse for starting a fire right now. You don't want to wait until you NEED a fire to discover that there is a problem so do a test run now.
 
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The durock is on wood studs. . . 8.5 inches on either side.

High beam: I did a breaking fire outside after the paint job.

I walk by it each day wishing I could fire it up. Soon. Very soon.
 
I do have my fireplace ( enerzone) that can fully heat the joint until mid December so if I have any issues I can always shut down the king and tweak things if necessary.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice...my install is complete...
It may have been covered at some point, but what is on the walls around the stove? It looks like limestone slabs. I like it!
 
Granicrete on the walls over the durock.
 
Inspection is complete.
 
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Congrats. Now what are you waiting for? We want to see some FIRE in the belly of that beast!
 
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Temps are dropping, it won't be long. I've been cutting lots of Manitoba maple and cottonwood lately and not even caring. This beast will surely get decent burns on even the softest woods. Mostly all oak (seasoned) and cherry this year though. Should be a great year of burning.

The inspector told my father-in law that he was very impressed with the install (I was at work). That was nice to hear.
 
I've been cutting lots of Manitoba maple and cottonwood lately and not even caring. This beast will surely get decent burns on even the softest woods. .

This has been my experience. Long burn times on junk wood like willow and cottonwood. Not sure what would happen with high btu fuel in a BK, maybe it would make more heat per hour but certainly couldn't extend the burn time much.

Good for you getting inpected. I fear that many folks just install it or have it installed per code (in their opinion) and then never get it inspected. Saves a few bucks but that inspection approval is critical in the event of a house fire.
 
A couple of guys ( one 90, the other in his 80's) came over and figured it out for me...
Gerat work. Unfortunately for me, everyone who takes out the prefab skips the part about how, exactly, they did it. You see one pic where it's in, the next where it's out. Voila! :) If you, or anyone else has time, could you elaborate on how you got it out? I have a similar situation, except I have a firestop 7' feet up, and my chase is about 25' total. The front drywall is out, but not the back which is inside the garage. I'm guessing I'm going to have to get in through the back at some point, but really, really, don't want to take the stove out that way since it will mean more construction. It's ok if i just have to open up an access hole. Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer details.
 
Once you get the materials off the front (drywall and wood) it comes out. The front surround usually holds them in place. Once you start ripping it apart, you'll see that it isn't all that bad. The bad part was trying to get the chimney out. A sawzall with a really long blade worked wonders for that.
 
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