I have a Buck model 90 (or maybe a model 70?) I bought used from a friend in Sept.06. When I got it, the rheostat that controls the blower speed was physically damaged. I replaced it and the thermo-switch. The blower control worked great for about 3 months. I was able to regulate the speed from low (nice and quiet) to high (quite noisy) as needed. Suddenly, it would only run on high. Pulled the rheostat and found that one of the wire's insulation was cooked. Took it back to the distributor, they replaced it. Put the new one in; worked ok for part of a day, then it would only do high speed. As of yet, no melted insulation on the wires. Could it be a motor problem? The manual from Buck shows a seperate on/off switch for the model 90, mine is included in the rheostat. The distributor tells me the same rheostat goes into the 90 AND the 70. I am waiting to hear back from Buck; they're not usually real good with technical advise. I will take the rheostat to a nearby electronics store to be tested. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Gary
Blower control problems w/ Buck
- Thread starter thebull22
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GVA
Minister of Fire
The same pot probably does work on each but perhaps yours requires the addition of a resistor, or maybe the board got fried.
Do you have a link to an online manual so I can check out the electrical prints.
Do you have a link to an online manual so I can check out the electrical prints.
Gooserider
Mod Emeritus
I'd be looking at getting the motor tested as well. If you are cooking wires, either you had a bad (high resistance) connection where things got cooked, or you are pulling to much current for the rating of the part.
I would start by getting the motor and other parts tested. If they check out OK, then I'd double check ALL connections and make sure they are clean and tight.
Special note, be wary of any crimp connections - if they were made with a "consumer" connector (pretty much any crimper costing less than about $30, and / or purchased anywhere but an electronic supply house) they are a problem waiting to happen. Crimp connectors are really only good if they are made with a "mil-spec" high leverage RATCHETING crimper.
Gooserider
I would start by getting the motor and other parts tested. If they check out OK, then I'd double check ALL connections and make sure they are clean and tight.
Special note, be wary of any crimp connections - if they were made with a "consumer" connector (pretty much any crimper costing less than about $30, and / or purchased anywhere but an electronic supply house) they are a problem waiting to happen. Crimp connectors are really only good if they are made with a "mil-spec" high leverage RATCHETING crimper.
Gooserider
Good advise Gooserider.
Gary, when was the last time the fan and fan motor were really thoroughly cleaned? When was the last time the motor bearings were properly lubricated?
Gary, when was the last time the fan and fan motor were really thoroughly cleaned? When was the last time the motor bearings were properly lubricated?
The buck models that come with blower have a seperate on off switch ie model18, 80, 81, 91. These are current models. Not sure about older ones. The optional blowers have a off in the rheostat as you described. I bought a model 51 and I am not real happy. I should of searched here first I think.
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