Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by kinsmanstoves, Dec 5, 2012.
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That will cover a lot of fuses.
Frequently a short fuse is attributed to high blood pressure, a type a personality, or not having been put on a choke chain as a younger trouble maker.
In your case likely more than one condition is involved ........... Bear running for the exit .............. >
Destructive or nondestructive
Perfectly sized pre-cut for the 13,8kv fuses in my bldg!
Seriously, folks you should check out each of the motor and the igniter circuits for electrical faults before just replacing a fuse and giving it the ole magic smoke test.
A fuse is a safety device and its blowing is a warning that something isn't exactly right.
You never try bypassing a fuse with wire, foil wrap, spent .22 cartridges, or pennies, doing so can cost you big time.
One other thing working with electrical systems is dangerous do all work with the stove unplugged until it is time to test a new fuse out and then keep your hands out of the stove .
(This reminds me of an old electronics device technician's advice to wear rubber soled footwear, and rubber gloves, don't stand in water, and keep one hand in your pocket at all times when the other is inside the case doing in circuit testing with the cord plugged in).
Sound advice Bear...
A worthwhile endeavour is to catalog the dc resistance of each of the circuits in your stove. There aren't that many of them, and knowing what the resistance should be can help pinpoint the cause of a failure when it happens. You will be able to recognize when something has changed. Motor and igniter resistances are the obvious ones to measure. Switches and thermocouples should be almost zero Ohms, but should be isolated from ground.
Make sure that the stove is unplugged before making any resistance measurements.
Words to live by.
I used to work on serious power supplies; up to 47KV and up to 5KW. These were supplies that would reach out and grab you. We worked with a "chicken stick" (a grounding rod) and one hand in the pocket.
Just make sure it is your pocket and not your "Buddies" pocket.
What if my buddies are in my pocket?
We also had to wear shoes with no nails in the heels. Nails shorten the path to ground through the feet.
What fuse should my englander take?
Dont ask dont tell
That should be marked on the end cap of the fuse. The manual says "A 6-amp “quick-blow” fuse (Part # PU-CBF6) is used
on this Control Board." (25pdvc)
PU-CBF Control Board Fuse (1 lb. each)
Fuse for Control Board. Box of 5.
NOTE: 6 amp fuse, all control boards can take this 6 amp fuse.
If purchasing locally, ask for a 6 amp, 120 Volt fuse.
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Sorry Harvey beat me to it...
That's cause you had to find that picture!!
But those look like 5 amp fuses
Copied from Englander, Yes the case reads GMA 5
And then we wonder why fuses occasionally fail for no obvious reason.
picture is an older one from before we had igniter stoves , back then we used 5 amp fuses, the pu-cb04 board was designed to use the 6 amp fuse since adding the igniter adds a higher load to the start sequence. i never noticed that the picture was of the older 5 amp fuses until you brought it up.
the stove should use a 6 amp fuse
One thing to watch on the fuses, Some controllers are rated for 240V and so is the fuse. So when you try to get a replacement local. You might only find a 120V fuse. Both maybe rated for 6 amps. But guess what the 120V will do?
remember to always lick your fingers before....wait a second, scratch that, reverse it...never lick your fingers before changing a fuse. thats my advice for the day.
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