Boiler or a hot air furnace

[quantum728]

I am stationed overseas with the Air Force and been doing a lot reading, love this site. I am from Central NH and our house was built in 2005 2 story 2800+/- SQ FEET. Currently heated with HWBB and a Crown 120k btu oil burner in the basement. House uses about 1000 gal per year. I have access to wood. My budget is $5000. I understand it is unrealistic to think i will be able to put the oil man out of business, but I want to drop my cost of heating. After reading i figured i have 2 options wood boiler or a wood add on furnace. I am pretty handy with tools and stuff. Here are my questions.

1. I can get a EKO 40 for around $5000 $1500 tax credit will pay for a smoke stack and a plumber to do the technical aspects of hooking up the boiler. Several problems with the wood boiler, the town only wants a UL approved boiler, so I would have to install under the radar, or pay big $$ for a US made UL approved wood boiler. The plumbers I spoken to are not in favor in doing work on non UL approved equipment. I think i can install my self. I called the insurance company they did not seem to care.

2. Second option is loose the Crown boiler. Install a wall mounted LP 95% efficient boiler, direct vent $3000. Use the smoke stack from the oil burner ( masonry 6") Install a add on furnace $1200, Run the duct work only on the first floor. Not sure how much the duct work will cost, they sell the 8" flex stuff at HD for +/- $60 per 25' I would use this to supplement the HWBB. I think heating the first floor with FHA enough would rise to to keep the second floor above 60~ then use HWBB to maintain 68~.

Out-lay for both installs are about a wash if I use the non-UL boiler. If the add-on boiler is UL than the cost increase is about $3000 over the FHA. Any input on this would be great. I have thick skin.

 

[Gooserider]

I think some of the Euroboilers are UL approved for whatever that is worth... Might also try talking to local building people to see if they will give a waiver on the UL listing in light of the EU approvals (especially if you can show at least some of the other Euroboilers also have UL listings...)

I will say that I am not a big fan of the FHA furnaces - I think the boilers offer better performance and more value, especially in a house where there is an existing hydronic system... (I feel that way enough that even though our house has an HVAC system, I have never considered trying to put a wood furnace in - I'd rather scrimp and save for the boiler...)

Gooserider

 

[lexybird]

id be worried about regulations and such down the road plus boilers can go through a large amount of wood ,a decent hot air wood furnace would only cost half that much with the ducting ..and could heat your house fine all by itself paying for itself in no time ,i know which one i choose but im biased becuase i own one

 

[stee6043]

I'm pretty sure the EKO is now UL approved. It is not, however, an ASME rated pressure vessel. If all your inspector/intsaller cares about is UL you might be good to go.

I think the general opinion is that a boiler will provide a more efficient and stable operation over a forced air unit. If you can swing it, I think it's a better long term solution for heating with wood.

The only caution I'll throw out is your budget. I don't think $1500 will cover the cost of the installation, stack, etc. If I had to wager a guess...without adding any thermal storage...you'll be at least $3,000 into plumbing, stack, pumps, heat exchanger, etc and so on. And I'd wager that estimate is on the light side....but might be doable...

 

[stee6043]

I also forgot to say THANK YOU! Thanks for being out there serving our great country. I wish you and your family all the best this holiday season. We truly appreciate you..

 

[mike1234]

My reasons for hot air over boiler - the house was hot air to begin with, it would of been a lot of work and money to make a change. I hate plumbing.

Since your house is hot water to begin with, and if you are a proficient plumber, I think it would make more sense to stick with a boiler. One issue however, it seems to me, as I read these forums, storage for hot water is a must, so you need to make sure you calculate that into your cost and into the room you are going to need to install this.

 

[quantum728]

Thanks for the input, i had a feeling the boiler would be the first choice. I will continue to do more reading and research UL endorsed boilers. When we return this summer I will sit down with the town, have all my info on boilers and furnaces. I will go from there. And Again thanks for the input.

Dan

 

[rickh1001]

"I am from Central NH and our house was built in 2005 2 story 2800+/- SQ FEET. Currently heated with HWBB and a Crown 120k btu oil burner in the basement. House uses about 1000 gal per year. I have access to wood. My budget is $5000. I understand it is unrealistic to think i will be able to put the oil man out of business, but I want to drop my cost of heating. After reading i figured i have 2 options wood boiler or a wood add on furnace. I am pretty handy with tools and stuff. Here are my questions."

How about the Kuuma hot air furnaces? If you were installing a new installation, no question hot water would be the most flexible and better long term choice. But as an add-on, the Kuuma gasifier wood furnaces are pretty interesting. I almost went that way myself, since we have hot air oil burners already installed. Check out some of the threads here, with mostly good things to say about these furnaces. One reasons I didn't buy one, was a waiting period that didn't fit into my install schedule last year.