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bolts for glass seizing up

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by italia899, Aug 28, 2006.

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  1. italia899

    italia899 New Member

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    Hello,

    I just got done refinishing my stove and the bolts that hold down the glass on the doors seized up. What is the best way to prevent this? My first inclination is don't torque them so much and use some hi-temp "anti seize" on the threads.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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  2. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    With the heat anti seize does not work all that well. If you are planning to ever re-doing your stove or taking apart any thing again I put back stainless steel bolts.
  3. smirnov3

    smirnov3 Feeling the Heat

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    Try Molybdenum Disulfide
  4. buildafire

    buildafire New Member

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  5. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Or just stop in at pretty much any knife or gun shop on the way home tomorrow and pick it up.
  6. drizler

    drizler Minister of Fire

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    You just have to love stainless. Just remember the golden rule. Some fine day some poor slob is going to have to take that apart again. He is going to either sing your praises or curse you. Most of all that poor slob could be you! Be nice to yourself.
  7. italia899

    italia899 New Member

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    My welder (who removed the stripped bolts) gave me some brass screws. Switch to stainless?
  8. drizler

    drizler Minister of Fire

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    Brass should be ok. My Cessna has brass nuts holding the exhaust on right at the edge of the manifold. It gets around 1400 - 1550 F right at that particular region not more than 1/2" away. One thing for sure no matter how long on there they spin right off and on again no hassles. If you had to hire someone to remove them with a torch then you already know the golden rule don't you? Try owning a bulldozer, every time something breaks ( and it routinely does) you need to go get the gasaxe whether it be to avoid breaking a bigass bolt in a very expensive hard to reach casting or to just lop one off. And then there is the mud...............
  9. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    Never throw a track on nice even ground always in the woods on a slope
  10. ourhouse

    ourhouse Minister of Fire

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    You sure as heck got that right Elk.
  11. drizler

    drizler Minister of Fire

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    Whats with the woods? Lets think about muddy slope with rock. Of course the rock is under the dozer so you cant jack it except for using the muddy soil. And you keep going and going and going. Sooner or later you find the bottom and the damned thing raises just a smidge. Of course all that isn't an issue if you have another machine nearby. Of course I didn't have another machine, just mud rock and a couple bottle jacks. Sure got my attention and to this day I can feel a track coming off in time to keep it on. Not expertise, just sheer fear and loathing. The two best ways I know to get rid of friends are pouring a slab and throwing a track, not necessarily in that order. Just mention either one and they immediately have to go walk their snail or whatever. Best of all how can you blame them?
  12. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    I had an old JD 2010 that did not want the track to stay on on the left side. Every day I would check it add greese to pump it up to the right tension. If I was the only one using it the track never fell off its when my helper opperators used it I had the problems.I seemed if the looked at where they were going and noticed the stump or bolder when turning all could be avoided. Most of the time a backhoe or other equipment was around. IT was easier to torch and blow out the pin than trying to set or right it. Finally I could not put up with anymore I traded it in for a 450 with a 4/1 bucket. Great machine still running today. All I have left now is a 1977 JD 500C backhoe. I do addition excavations. I hire out the transport. About 5 a year since I sold my truck and trailer. I used to do septic systems and complete site work but a crew on one make this impractical
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