Bottom Heat Shield
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Don't have a F600, so can't be real specific for your application, but I recently had a heat shield made to my drawing for a different application. 22 guage galvanized, four stamped slots for mounting, two bends, overall size 36x24, cost $45.00 at local HVAC shop, came out real nice, and works great. Took me about an hour to do the drawing, double check everything, and think it all through. I don't think you'll save a lot of money doing it yourself -- materials are going to cost you $30 probably -- but you might enjoy the process.
I used slots for mounting rather than holes to allow for some adjustment and for thermal expansion/contraction of the shield. Something to think about. Maybe oversized holes with washers would accomplish the same thing.
One side effect of shielding is you may get stronger convection over the stove -- I did, and that's a benefit in my application.
I used slots for mounting rather than holes to allow for some adjustment and for thermal expansion/contraction of the shield. Something to think about. Maybe oversized holes with washers would accomplish the same thing.
One side effect of shielding is you may get stronger convection over the stove -- I did, and that's a benefit in my application.
Drumaz said:
Well, I'd go look at the factory unit and see what's what. I dont know your stove that well, but generally, spacing from the stove is important, as is the gauge of material, as is not blocking the ash door, or unintentionally feeding a bunch of super hot air onto some thermostat or air intake. The shield stops radiation into the floor by trapping it, but the energy doesnt just disappear, its reflected back toward the stove, and this not only makes the stove hotter, it also creates a layer of really hot air close to the stove, and that air moves out by convection. So some thought is in order about where that air is exiting and what effects it may have and how to direct the flow if necessary. On a strong stove, you are redirecting a lot of energy with a shield, though on the bottom of a stove maybe less than on sides. My advice is to make a mock-up out of cardbaord, including your mounting holes to make sure everything is good to go. Then trace to steel and cut and bend if nec. I did not like the steel I found at local hardware store, 28 ga. too flimsy in my opinion.
Other considerations -- booming and rattling from expansion and contraction. Less of a problem with small shields, something of a problem on my 36x24 one, so I did slots. You can design this out or minimize it if you are thoughtful.
Good luck with your tin knocking project.
jrousell
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VTZJ said:
Can you share a picture of what you have- I am very interested. a picture is worth a thousand words....
I made my own from a very heavy gauge aluminum panel from an old storm door. It's painted black and suspended about an inch or two below the stove from some brackets mounted to the leg bolts.
For the time, materials and labor, $100 doesn't seem that high, though I'm surprised they are selling it as an option. It wasn't optional when I got the F400 and the manual seems to assume that it's installed for the hearth specs.
FWIW, the hearth requirements are based on Jotul's testing and certification. The manual states - "No other heat shield may be used.". I'm not saying that a homemade unit won't work, but if a warranty or insurance issue comes up, a custom unit may not fly.
FWIW, the hearth requirements are based on Jotul's testing and certification. The manual states - "No other heat shield may be used.". I'm not saying that a homemade unit won't work, but if a warranty or insurance issue comes up, a custom unit may not fly.
adkdadto4 said:VTZJ said:
Can you share a picture of what you have- I am very interested. a picture is worth a thousand words....
As requested. Pics from right to left show...
--24x36 rear heat shield
--Flush with top
--Thirty degree breaks at each end wrap the stove a bit, adds rigidity
--Two inch standoffs came with the stove
--Slotted holes for mounting allows adjustment and expansion
--22 Gauge steel = one thirty-second of an inch
Shield works very well. Goal was to stop radiation into the concrete foundation, other benefits have been (1) hotter firebox temps, (2) better thermostat operation on primary air ('stat not so cold anymore), (3) stronger convection over the stove, which is better for my application.
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