Thistle said:I do both actually. Cut to square or extra length (up to 3"-4") depending on grain pattern,seal the end grain + 1"-2" extra on the edges & faces.And cut to a disc,sealing all the way around.
I've used Anchorseal for over 15 yrs.Its a water-based parrafin wax emulsion product,looks milky but dries in an hour or less almost clear.It "moves" with the wood,actually soaks in,doesnt peel off or get hard & brittle like regular candle wax tends to do.Its liquid at room temps,1 gallon jug for $20 or so lasts a long time,just dont let it freeze.Applies easily with cheap nylon paint brush.
Craft Supplies Inc Woodturning Supplies in Utah is one place that sells it,some local woodworking retailer in major city might also.Woodsmith or Woodcraft is another place to check.
Willman said:The March issue of Wood magazine has an article on green wood bowl turning. The method used is to cut the log into two slabs. Then lay out the round on top of the slab. Goes on to show how to set up and turn in the green stage. Then put away for final drying. After that finish turning. I think the bowl is stronger with this layout versus cutting rounds out. Not a turner so not fully certain. If you can check out the article it would show it better than my description.
Will
Thistle said:I dont do much green bowl turning anymore.When I have the time I may roughout a few pieces with 3/4" - 1" wall thickness depending on the diameter of the piece,seal them & let them dry for a year or so.Mostly when milling blanks now I cut them to rough squares,blocks & occasionally circles,seal them & store them for later use or sale.I have some 4"x 14 x 28" Honey Locust milled green & end sealed in Spring 1998.I can imagine how damn hard that stuff is to work by now. :lol: Some may eventually be resawed into thinner pieces for boxes and/or cabinet/furniture parts.
Danno77 said:Did you get any of that Spalted Hickory into blanks for bowls?
smokinjay said:Thistle said:I dont do much green bowl turning anymore.When I have the time I may roughout a few pieces with 3/4" - 1" wall thickness depending on the diameter of the piece,seal them & let them dry for a year or so.Mostly when milling blanks now I cut them to rough squares,blocks & occasionally circles,seal them & store them for later use or sale.I have some 4"x 14 x 28" Honey Locust milled green & end sealed in Spring 1998.I can imagine how damn hard that stuff is to work by now. :lol: Some may eventually be resawed into thinner pieces for boxes and/or cabinet/furniture parts.
I have a ton of black locust trunks I need to get moving on. I am thinking resale and seems the bowl turner;s like the green stuff.
Thistle said:smokinjay said:Thistle said:I dont do much green bowl turning anymore.When I have the time I may roughout a few pieces with 3/4" - 1" wall thickness depending on the diameter of the piece,seal them & let them dry for a year or so.Mostly when milling blanks now I cut them to rough squares,blocks & occasionally circles,seal them & store them for later use or sale.I have some 4"x 14 x 28" Honey Locust milled green & end sealed in Spring 1998.I can imagine how damn hard that stuff is to work by now. :lol: Some may eventually be resawed into thinner pieces for boxes and/or cabinet/furniture parts.
I have a ton of black locust trunks I need to get moving on. I am thinking resale and seems the bowl turner;s like the green stuff.
Yup much easier to work when its green,dries more evenly when roughed out first instead of a solid thick block or plank.I milled a few Walnut blocks today,gradually reducing that stack of odds & ends from last Fall.Once the sealer dries on the ends,its outside to the shed.Running out of room inside the shop & garage to store everything.