On 5 or 6 pieces of 2 to 3 inch splits of oak and a small bed of coals for crying out loud, air about 75% closed and no fan, should have checked it sooner I guess, 788 stove top and only 400 flue (external) temp. :ahhh:
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SKIN052
Minister of Fire
Did basically the same thing this morning. Not realizing how cold it was out I loaded up just before work with some nice size Birch and Juniper. The cold really adds my draft and when I was just about to walk out the door I realized just how roaring the fire was getting. Made myself a tad bit late just to keep an eye on it.
oldspark said:
Nothing bad at all spark, I said "as it should be" because that is how that stove should be acting if you want it to!
I know you've complained you weren't getting the top end out of it you wanted.
Hope that it is now giving you what you were hoping for.
pen
Congrats on the 700+ temps. Still havent been able to get mine above 660 and that was only once. Still not giving up on it though.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
Not sure why people want to get their stovetop above 650 degrees?? I try to keep it below 650 not above it.. The T-5 gets to 650 pretty easy and I try to limit it to this temp..
Ray
Ray
raybonz said:
Ray, I agree with you a bit here.
We have all range of newbie/experienced woodburners reading our posts, all ranges of cubic foot firebox sizes, etc. with our specific manufacturer brand woodburners.
When a newbie thinks 'their' stove should be reaching these higher temps then they strive for them on 'their' stoves - even though 'their' stove may not be rated for these higher temps.
As an example, my Oslo is rated to run between 400-600 °F .
I think I accidentally got my stove up to 640 once, and only once.
I don't strive for the higher temps, I prefer to coast within the manufacturer specs for "my" stove.
So I guess I'm saying higher temps may not necessarily be proper given the woodburning appliance the reader is using in their home.
Just my 2 cents.
Burn on!
raybonz
Minister of Fire
Shari said:raybonz said:
Ray, I agree with you a bit here.
We have all range of newbie/experienced woodburners reading our posts, all ranges of cubic foot firebox sizes, etc. with our specific manufacturer brand woodburners.
When a newbie thinks 'their' stove should be reaching these higher temps then they strive for them on 'their' stoves - even though 'their' stove may not be rated for these higher temps.
As an example, my Oslo is rated to run between 400-600 °F .
I think I accidentally got my stove up to 640 once, and only once.
I don't strive for the higher temps, I prefer to coast within the manufacturer specs for "my" stove.
So I guess I'm saying higher temps may not necessarily be proper given the woodburning appliance the reader is using in their home.
Just my 2 cents.
Burn on!
+1 I fully agree with what you stated.. While I don't think an occasional temp spike will hurt anything a high temp for an extended time would cause damage and could void your warranty or even worse..
Ray
Well I have to heat the house and the Summit is supposed to take the higher temps, the one guy from Alsaka runs his up to 800 on a regular basis, if I cant hit 700 or so easily that means the stove is slugglish and not working correctly IMHO. I dont plan on running mine past 750 or so but I need the heat with this house and for the money these things cost it should be able to run at a higher temp. A 700 to 800 temp on startup is no big deal as that would be the peak, and usually before then I have the fan running and it wont get that high.
Have you done anything different with your stove, last year I struggled to get to 600 or so, mine still is a little slow getting to 700 but works much better than last year.lillyrat said:
precaud
Minister of Fire
spark, congrats on getting your temps up, that's been an issue for your summit. It appears that smaller splits are the answer.
I guess it's time for my annual "don't be afraid to run your stove top hot" post. I have always run my stoves hot and have never had a problem that could be attributed to it, except perhaps with a Morso 2110 whose primary air preheating chamber design was an accident-waiting-to-happen.
To put things into context, it helps to remember the dominant factors at play in this wonderful game.
: In most designs, the top plate is the primary heat exchanger.
: The amount of heat emitted per square foot is dependent on the temperature of the radiating surface.
..SURFACE.....…..TOTAL ENERGY
TEMPERATURE....TRANSFERRED
.(Degrees).........(BTU/Hr/Sq ft)
————————- ...—————————
80F ......................... 15
100F.........................51
150F.......................168
200F.......................315
400F.....................1230
600F.....................2850
800F.....................5430
1200F...................9370
———————————————————-
This chart tells us that sedate stovetop temps will result in sedate heat output. Going from 400F to 600F will more than double the heat output; from 600F to 800F almost doubles it again.
Bottom line, in the normal operating range of most stoves, to double the heat output, you can either run it 200F hotter or get a stove with twice the surface area. Interesting choice, no?
I guess it's time for my annual "don't be afraid to run your stove top hot" post. I have always run my stoves hot and have never had a problem that could be attributed to it, except perhaps with a Morso 2110 whose primary air preheating chamber design was an accident-waiting-to-happen.
To put things into context, it helps to remember the dominant factors at play in this wonderful game.
: In most designs, the top plate is the primary heat exchanger.
: The amount of heat emitted per square foot is dependent on the temperature of the radiating surface.
..SURFACE.....…..TOTAL ENERGY
TEMPERATURE....TRANSFERRED
.(Degrees).........(BTU/Hr/Sq ft)
————————- ...—————————
80F ......................... 15
100F.........................51
150F.......................168
200F.......................315
400F.....................1230
600F.....................2850
800F.....................5430
1200F...................9370
———————————————————-
This chart tells us that sedate stovetop temps will result in sedate heat output. Going from 400F to 600F will more than double the heat output; from 600F to 800F almost doubles it again.
Bottom line, in the normal operating range of most stoves, to double the heat output, you can either run it 200F hotter or get a stove with twice the surface area. Interesting choice, no?
I can tell you why I want my stove up to 650. My house will be warmer than it is with my stove at 500. You are not concerned with it because it is not a problem for your stove, install and wood supply. I don't want it to burn all the time at 650 but if I need the heat then I want to be able to get it there.raybonz said:
Oldspark,
I have removed a 90 and put in 2 45's and that has seemed to help. I think my limiting factor is that I am still driving the stove too much with my external Flue thermometer. Probably shoud drive by the stovetop thermo and then I wouldn't be involved in this discussion.
certified106
Minister of Fire
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I am planning a plate steel stove for my shop. You can bet that I intend to run that thing up to 800 (just no glowing) on a regular basis. Hot burns are clean burns and one great benefit of the steel stoves is pumping lots of heat into the room in a short time. If you want low and slow then get a stone stove.
theonlyzarathu
Member
Highbeam said:
According to the Chimney Sweep, which is the only internet supplier that sells these unit, and has been selling them for a long time, they are not designed to be run that hot:
800 degrees is hotter than you want your top plate to get for any extended period of time. Place a stove thermometer just in
front of the flue collar, centered left-to-right, and shoot for the 500-600 range. You'll get occasional spikes into the mid-high
700's, but try to avoid going over 800.
At your service,
Tom Oyen
THE CHIMNEY SWEEP ONLINE
http://www.chimneysweeponline.com
Unless I have a house full of people and have to open the whole house up, and the outside temps are below zero, I cannot see the need to go much above 450. At that temp I'm getting massive secondary burning and the entire inside of the firebox is filled with burning gases and logs.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
TheOnlyZarathu said:
+1 I fully agree and run my T-5 this way and I have more than enough heat running this way.. Last night it was 12 degrees here, I loaded up with red oak then got the secondaries working, 7 hrs. later I had a huge pile of hot coals.. Temp upstairs was 73 and downstairs 75.. Added a few logs and it fired right up got home from work 12 hrs. later and had enough coals to relight and temp was around 70..
Ray
450 aint cutting it here in NW Iowa in this house, if I tried to heat the house that way the stove would find a new home and I would be looking for a new one.
theonlyzarathu
Member
Not everybody needs to heat their stove to its maximum temps all the time. The good thing about the the Summit is that it can heat just efficiently at 400 as at 650.
So in Northwest Iowa, your temps are about the same as Bar Harbor, ME. So you are either heating a much bigger house than mine, or one with much greater heat loss because of the house or perhaps wind.
So in Northwest Iowa, your temps are about the same as Bar Harbor, ME. So you are either heating a much bigger house than mine, or one with much greater heat loss because of the house or perhaps wind.
Thats for sure as the heat output from 400 to 600 is over double so you must not need much heat.
theonlyzarathu
Member
oldspark said:
I'm retired on a fixed income. I live in a big house with an excessive amount of windows two hours from the Canadian border. However, its just the two of us and we don't heat the rooms that we're not using, so we close those doors. I bought the stove so that I could heat them if I wanted , and so when the temps drop to minus 10 with a howling wind, I will have no problem heating the house. But I'd like to get by on 3 cords not on 6 if I can. Its an old farm house that was renovated before I bought it, and I really have no idea of how much insulation was added since the people who did the renovation are dead.
My house was built in 1980 and it has a fair amount of insulation but a lot of south windows so a south wind makes it hard to heat, other wise the stove does a good job for the most part, the stove top temperature of 788 I mentioned in my post was only hit once as I can not do that on a regular basis (not enough draft I guess). I understand why you only need 450 or so now if yu are only heating part of your house.
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