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Breckwell P2000i won't start after cleaning

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by djs_net, Dec 21, 2011.

  1. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    I shut down my stove to clean and now it won't start. When I attempt to start, it shuts down within 10 seconds and the #2 light flashes.
    Per the manual, I've checked the following:
    Airflow switch hose is not blocked.
    Burnpot is clean and flush.
    Combustion blower runs.
    Door is closed tight.
    Door seal appears to be in good shape.
    All the wires are connected, especially wires to the air switch.
    Control board appears to have power and is working properly.

    Is there something else I've missed? It seems likely that it's a simple fix. The last troubleshooting tip for the #2 light flashing is for a faulty air switch but the manual says that's very rare. I just followed the procedure to test the air switch and it is good (I hear the click when gently sucking on the hose)

    Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated.

    Thanks

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  2. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Ash pan area closed and latched?
  3. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    The ash doors are in place, the burnpot is on correctly, the door is latched.
    The only 2 things left on the list in the manual are the vent pipe incorrectly installed and the door seal.

    The vent pipe looks good to me, I had the stove professionally installed only a month ago so I assume the vent pipe is ok.
    The stove was used when I bought it, but my installer told me the door seal was in good shape. I instected it and it looks fine.
  4. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Gaskets need to be tested looks don't count.

    The barb the vacuum line goes to can get plugged also the tee if you were running a brush in the venting, the termination cap can get plugged and finally cause a problem after the last shut down just before you clean.

    You say the combustion blower is operating is it at speed?

    You didn't by any chance fully close the damper did you?
  5. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    The stove was running great.
    I'm not sure how to test the door gasket, I'm pretty new at this. It seems weird that it would suddenly not start, I would think that it would burn with a lazy flame if the gasket was starting to wear.
    I did not use a brush or touch the venting.
    I've tried to start it with the damper open and closed, didn't make any difference. Normally I start it with the damper mostly closed and open it up more after it gets cranking.
  6. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Dollar bill gasket test at two separated points on each side of the door, close the door on a pice of paper the size of a dollar bill. Pull the bill out, the bill should come out but it has to present some resistance when pulled out, this must be true at all of the test points.

    The same should be done to any ash pan door areas if there is a gasket there.

    You can have a bad gasket, or a loose latch, or a misaligned door.

    It is even possible for a number of small air leaks into the fire box area to cause this as well.

    When you cleaned the stove did you open up and clean the ash traps?
  7. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    It passed the dollar bill test. It was very tight (hard to move the bill) all around the door at every test point.
    The P2000i has 3 ash doors in the fire box. I removed all of them and vacuumed thouroughly behind. They are all back in place properly.
  8. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    When you were playing in the traps is there any chance you pushed ash back further into the combustion air path and maybe into the combustion blowers chamber? Also, did you go upwards in those traps to the top of the fire box by the heat exchanger tubes?

    If there is a tube scrapper on the unit has it been operated and returned to the back of the heat exchanger?
  9. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    I don't think I push any ash into the combustion blower but it's possible. There is a heat exchange tube cleaner, I use it pretty much every time I vacuum the stove and always return it to the back of the heat exchanger.

    I'm reading a link to Breckwell troubleshooting:

    http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/Breckwell_help.htm

    There is a mention of bypassing the vacuum switch http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/breckwell_vacuum_switch_test.htm (I assume this is the air switch) but the wires are supposed to be grey and white. The wires on my stove are both grey, so I'm a little hesitant to bypass it.
  10. Kiver

    Kiver Member

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    I have a p2000fs and there is another clean out in the top right roof corner. I was getting the blinking 2 also and just did a good cleaning. Did the leaf blower also. That was about a week ago. My clean out trap got pretty dirty quick
  11. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    I cannot locate any cleanout trap in the top of the firebox. The manual refers to removing the upper baffle by loosening a screw but I don't see it. I think that might only be for the FS model.
  12. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    The area on both the right and left hand sides of the firebox above and below the the heat exchanger tubes leads down to the ash traps, this area gets a good dose of ash in if it becomes plugged you get the #2 error. That is why I mentioned the brush up the ash traps.
  13. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    Yeah, the stove is cleaner than ever...I also removed the combustion blower and vacuumed that area (wasn't too ashy) and made sure the blower gasket is sealed properly.

    My best guess at this time is a faulty air switch even though I followed the instructions to "test" it by sucking on the tube and hearing a feint click.
    Does anyone have an opinion on following these instructions: http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/breckwell_vacuum_switch_test.htm and bypassing the switch? The two wires to my switch are both grey (not grey and white).
  14. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    Well, it turns out it was the air switch. I bypassed the switch and the stove fired right up.
    The thing the confused me is that the owners manual and the Breckwell website says that the air switch is the most reliable part on the stove and rarely malfunctions. I also tested the switch by sucking on the hose and I heard the click which usually indicates a good switch.
    Anyways, the stove is running, and the replacement switch has been ordered and has already been shipped.

    Thanks for the replies!
  15. HopeItBurns

    HopeItBurns Member

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    You have to be careful when sucking the back wall, I use the brush attachment for the back wall. When using direct vacuum, could be possible to screw the air switch up.
  16. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    Well, I guess it wasn't the air switch...I shut down the stove to clean it and replaced the switch, now I'm back to where I started with the quick shut down and flashing 2.
    At this point I have no idea what could be causing the air swich to not recognized the pressure. The stove is clean, I've checked the pressure hose, I've removed and cleaned the combustion blower, I've ran the dollar bill test (passed). The stove works fine if I bypass the switch, but I'd obviously prefer to not run it like permanently.

    Any more ideas? This is frustrating.
  17. jtakeman

    jtakeman Minister of Fire

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    Did you inspect the hose? Sometimes that split or break. Also be sure its not plugged up with crud. Remove the hose from the switch and blow air towards the stove housing.

    Lastly is the connections to the switch. I have seen them corrode and work when jumped out, But fail when reconnected to the switch. Clean with contact cleaner(if green). Squeeze them a bit(not to hard or you will crush the connector) to make a tight connection to the switch.
  18. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    The hose was checked pretty closely when this first happened. I removed it, inspected it, and blew through. It's not plugged and sure doesn't appear to be cracked or broken.
    The connections to the switch are not corroded at all, they were loose when I attached them to the new replacement switch so I did have to squeeze them to make a nice tight connection.
  19. imacman

    imacman Guest

    If you're SURE that the hose and the connection that the hose goes on in the stove is clear, then I'd investigate a dirty exhaust system. Poor airflow through the exhaust will cause the switch to trip, as it's supposed to.

    Clean the ENTIRE exhaust system, starting at the combustion blower all the way to the cap.

    You stated in the beginning that this was a used stove.....was it completely disassembled and cleaned before installing it?

    This has all the earmarks of a dirty stove, IMO.
  20. jtakeman

    jtakeman Minister of Fire

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    Yep, sure sounds like a plugged vent if the switch is good and no bad connections. She won't pull enough vacuum ifs she's plugged with crud.

    Got a leaf blower handy?
  21. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    I'm still new at this so anything is possible. The stove was cleaned pretty thoroughly before installation including being blown out good from every angle with a leaf blower while it was still in the driveway. I had a good look at the chimney piping before it was installed and it certainly looked used but was totally clear and only had a small amount of ash/soot.

    If I remove the exhaust vent from the combustion blower, I guess I need to break the high temp epoxy that was used by my installer. What exactly do I need to buy to reassemble? Does it have a name besides high temp epoxy? Is it available at Lowes?
  22. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    I do have a (electric) leaf blower. I assume you're refering to following the instructions to the leaf blower trick...getting up on the chimney and attaching the vacuum end of the blower to the cap etc?

    Can I do this instead of disassembling the combustion blower/vent?
  23. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Yes.
  24. djs_net

    djs_net Member

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    OK, the leaf blower trick isn't going to happen right now (long story). I did take the exhaust pipe/combustion blower off and cleaned it up real good with a brush, vacuum and ended up using the leaf blower to BLOW from the bottom of the chimney piping upwards. A little ash got in the house but mostly it seemed to clear out the exhaust vent very well. At this point I find it hard to believe that it's so plugged that it's tripping the air switch, but it's STILL shutting down with a #2 error. If it is the exhaust that's causing the error, I'm thinking it's somehow blocked at the cap. This doesn't make sense to me since the install was so recent.

    I don't see any option at this point except to call the installer and pay to have him go on my roof and check the exhaust (again). This sucks.
  25. imacman

    imacman Guest

    We're not saying that it absolutely IS the exhaust pipe. We're saying that it could be anywhere in the stove, from the air inlet all the way to the cap, and anywhere in between.

    When I asked about whether or not the stove was disassembled after you got it, just blowing air through parts of the stove with a leaf blower isn't going to cut it, in most cases. A LOT of the flyash gets caked inside the traps, and has to be scraped away. Many people use a small hammer and physically bang on the back steel walls of the firebox to dislodge the ash (unless the back wall is cast iron, then do NOT do this!)

    You needed to physically remove all blowers, the auger and motor, any ash trap covers, burn pot, any plates or other covers around the heat exchangers, etc, etc, etc, and then use stiff brushes, vacuum, scrapers, etc, etc.

    From what the veteran members here have seen MANY times in the past, is the reason a used stove became "used" in the first place.....the original owner didn't maintain it correctly and got rid of it because the "stove is no da** good!".

    Now, I'm not saying that this is absolutely 100% the problem, but if you get the stove squeaky clean, then that eliminates a LOT of questions.

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