broke my huskee - Toothpick Design Center - Out of production

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mstoelton

Feeling the Heat
Dec 16, 2013
486
SE michigan
Yesterday afternoon I was splitting some larger rounds in vertical mode on my 1999 huskee 25 ton and the splitter started acting funny (wedge vibrating badly on return stroke) I then noticed a problem. 1/2 of the bolt that holds the wedge to the piston had sheared off. By the looks of it the bolt has been "through the war" as it was dented, worn and distorted badly. So I had to stop splitting.

It appears to be a 5/8 inch course thread bolt about 2 1/2 inches long. Should I replace with a "Grade 8" bolt or should I go with standard steel or stainless?

I've got a call in to speeco, just wanted to hear what the forum has to say in case Speeco does not respond quickly.
 
The splitter I 'store' has had the same issue after extended use over the years. It has been through both grade 5 and grade 8 bolts, but this is a shear related failure. I'd say to go with grade 8. Keep an extra on the shelf. ;)
 
While tempting to go grade 8 (fine here, as there's no mechanical shock loads), I'd probably copy whatever Speeco used. Unless you want to spend a lot of time thinking thru why they chose what they chose, it's usually the safest course of action. Maybe the engineer intended that bolt to be an intentional shear point, to prevent damage under some scenario you have not yet considered. Learn to read the markings on the bolt head, and you'll know what they used.

The factory bolt has lasted 15 years... a pretty good track record, IMO.
 
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Being a shear application with the possibility of the bolt shearing and dropping the spitting head in vertical mode, I would go with the grade 8. The wedge dropping could end up ugly.!!!
 
Being a shear application with the possibility of the bolt shearing and dropping the spitting head in vertical mode, I would go with the grade 8. The wedge dropping could end up ugly.

I agree that could get ugly! I try to keep the important parts from below the wedge at all times. I just don't like havin' the fingers below that wedge.

I would rather operate in horizontal mode but some of the rounds are just too heavy to pick-up. 36-40 inch oak and cherry rounds x 16 inches thick - it a pretty good workout just to roll those. They have to be split vertical or not at all. (x27 just bounces off those bad boys).
 
Maybe the engineer intended that bolt to be an intentional shear point, to prevent damage under some scenario you have not yet considered.

Or maybe while he was sitting at the unemployment office he mumbled over and over "If I had just used Grade 8...". >>
 
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While tempting to go grade 8 (fine here, as there's no mechanical shock loads), I'd probably copy whatever Speeco used. Unless you want to spend a lot of time thinking thru why they chose what they chose, it's usually the safest course of action. Maybe the engineer intended that bolt to be an intentional shear point, to prevent damage under some scenario you have not yet considered. Learn to read the markings on the bolt head, and you'll know what they used.

The factory bolt has lasted 15 years... a pretty good track record, IMO.

+1

OP, one of the reasons we have different grades of bolts is that different resistances to shearing is a GOOD THING. We actually want the relatively inexpensive and universally available bolt to shear instead of the parts it fastens together. Grade 8 is not always "better."

For the record, the manual for my 2009 build Huskee 35-ton splitter indicates GRADE 5 for the bolt that holds the wedge. It's part number is "O/L," which means "obtain locally."
 
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How many homeower applications are over designed? Why use a grade 8 when grade 5 will do?? This probably has more to do with economics than it does to design specs.
 
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I would put another grade 5 back in it and use it for another 15 years. I would have to look but I think that bolt is only there for the retract part of the operation. If that is the case you may brake the stripper wings off if something went wrong.
 
If that is the case you may brake the stripper wings off if something went wrong.

One grade 8 shear has no where near enough to pop 6 or 8 grade 5 bolts in tensile.
 
IMG_2089Large_zpsbb5d4b42.jpg These are the stripper wings I am talking about.
 
There should be little to no stress on the bolt while the ram is extending and only minor stress when retracting. If the wedge vibrates on the return stroke it is a sign of the wedge binding. Prop the cylinder up out of the way and remove the wedge to check for wear to the slide and slide guides.
 
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How many homeower applications are over designed? Why use a grade 8 when grade 5 will do?? This probably has more to do with economics than it does to design specs.
"Probably," I think your right. But the old one lasted a good long time... so I was just stating my line of thinking. As a design engineer who occasionally sees his products accelerated into more expensive failures by well-intentioned but unwitting repair technicians, I tend these days to just go with original parts when making a repair, particularly if the original lasted 15 years. I won't mind replacing that bolt again in 2030, if the machine is still around.
 
So, on further inspection and review, the original 9/16ths inch grade 5 bolt had been replaced by the former owner with a 1/2 inch grade 5 bolt. This resulted in eventual failure of the 1/2 inch bolt due to being undersized, and having some slop or play.

The splitter is back up and running. I

Note: I did have a wedge sled binding problem that likely revealed the broken wedge connector bolt.

The bottom of the wedge had sheared off a piece of oak that was binding the bottom of the wedge and the beam.

Once the bolt was replaced I was able to use a 36 inch long piece of steel strapping to drive the oak from beneath the wedge sled.

I guess the one downfall of vertical splitting is that you can get stuff under the wedge sled because gravity is not holding it down on the beam.
 
I guess the one downfall of vertical splitting is that you can get stuff under the wedge sled because gravity is not holding it down on the beam.

Well that....and the whole sitting like a chimp thing.:p
 
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I find I can only do maybe 1 - 1.5 cords per day, vertically. I can do 4 - 5 cords per day horizontally. Part of that has to do with the size of the rounds associated with each orientation, but the larger part of it is that horizontal is just much faster and more comfortable than bending, kneeling, or sitting.
 
I find I can only do maybe 1 - 1.5 cords per day, vertically. I can do 4 - 5 cords per day horizontally. Part of that has to do with the size of the rounds associated with each orientation, but the larger part of it is that horizontal is just much faster and more comfortable than bending, kneeling, or sitting.

If I tried that, I would be able to do nothing for the next (?) days and be on pain pills for my back. I bend way more in horizontal mode than in vertical - and my back doesn't like bending too much. I do usually go horizontal for the smaller lighter stuff - but I limit how much time I spend at it per session. Back issues & back pain really sucks. My last couple of splitting sessions though were all vertical even though it was smaller stuff, and I did around 2 cords in about 5 hours from a comfy seat.
 
Proper procedure for splitting horizontally: Use tractor bucket to lift rounds to be split to level of beam so operator doesn't have to bend down. Commence splitting! ;)
 
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Proper procedure for splitting horizontally: Use tractor bucket to lift rounds to be split to level of beam so operator doesn't have to bend down. Commence splitting! ;)
I actually do the reverse. My rounds are usually already stacked, from when I brought them home days / weeks / months earlier, so I'm rolling them off the stack (often directly onto the splitter beam), splitting, and tossing the splits into the bucket of the tractor parked directly next to the splitter. When bucket is full, I fire up the tractor and drive to where I'm going to stack. I found this is maybe a little slower, but much less fatiguing than, moving the rounds to the splitter and stacking right off the splitter.

If I tried that, I would be able to do nothing for the next (?) days and be on pain pills for my back. I bend way more in horizontal mode than in vertical - and my back doesn't like bending too much. I do usually go horizontal for the smaller lighter stuff - but I limit how much time I spend at it per session. Back issues & back pain really sucks. My last couple of splitting sessions though were all vertical even though it was smaller stuff, and I did around 2 cords in about 5 hours from a comfy seat.
Back problems here, too, but mine are different. I get some bad aches when I spend too many hours working at my desk, a common problem for me. My best medicine is getting out and moving, often splitting wood. Lots of movement and exercise keeps things happy.
 
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Agree on the movement & exercise. I just have to be very careful how my back is bent while I'm working. Backs are weird things - mine usually feels the best after a couple of hours of chain saw work in the woods. And there are also times when I'll lay flat on the couch for a while to give it a break & can hardly get up again because it seems to have stiffened up again. Feels pretty good while I'm laying there, but hits when I go to get up.

Another issue with me & horizontal splitting is my legs. They're too long. It isn't so much the picking up the wood, but being hunched over the thing. Guess I should get my legs shortened. I also get the desk thing - spend way too many hours behind this computer. Somedays it doesn't faze it, other days I can hardly stand it.
 
Another issue with me & horizontal splitting is my legs. They're too long. It isn't so much the picking up the wood, but being hunched over the thing. Guess I should get my legs shortened.
Might be cheaper to get your splitter raised! Better yet, I know a guy in IL who can build you one to custom height. ;)
 
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