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Buck Stove 85 question

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by brian89gp, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. brian89gp

    brian89gp Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
    Messages:
    436
    Loc:
    Kansas City
    Probably a dumb question, but is it customary in these stoves for the middle of the top baffle plate and the rear secondary tubes to be glowing? Dull orange, not near-metling bright orange.

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  2. brian89gp

    brian89gp Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
    Messages:
    436
    Loc:
    Kansas City
    Think I have found part of my problem, either a bad door gasket or warped door. The whole top, bottom, and right side fail the dollar bill test. The top right corner I can actually somewhat push and pull the dollar bill if I don't clamp the door very tightly...very bad in that spot. By pounding down on the handle with the palm of my hand to clamp the door shut tighter has resolved some of the runaway problems I have been seeing and the secondaries are actually lighting reliably now on smaller/less hot loads. Once the door gasket comes later this week I will replace it and see if that helps. If I load it with quick burning wood though it still takes off and there is nothing I can do about it, but to 600-650 instead of 750+ so probably still have a draft induced problem at least somewhat.


    So, thank you all for the help and I apologize for getting freaked out.
  3. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE Minister of Fire

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    Jan 28, 2011
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    639
    Loc:
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    I think there is a set screw on the door angle thingy you can loosen along with a phillips to pull the door tighter. It is a little set screw like 2mm....you tighten the Phillips screw to pull it in and retighten the set screw.
  4. brian89gp

    brian89gp Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
    Messages:
    436
    Loc:
    Kansas City
    Replaced the door gasket, adjusted the handle so it would actually close without binding up, and got a stove top thermometer (other one was a stove pipe with the danger scale at 500).

    It still takes off like a bat out of hell and I can have a 500* secondary burn going in under 15 minutes from a cold no-coal start, but it is much more controllable and the air intake sliders actually seem to do something. Cruising at an outdoor temp colder then I have burned on yet with more wind and I only have the air intake sliders at 75% closed.

    Question for 85 owners, what temp does yours cruise at? Mine seems to be happy running at 600-650 with the secondary tubes and baffle plate glowing a dull red. Anything less and the secondaries don't reliably light and I get some wispy smoke out the chimney. Also, is it normal to have a short secondary burn if you are burning real dry wood? I am burning real dry silver maple and sweet gum and the secondaries are on furnace blast mode for maybe 30-45 minutes then there is just some lazy intermittent action. If I clamp the air down slightly after this 30-45 minutes I can get some constant secondary burn but it is usually only in one corner on the back tube.
  5. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

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    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    30 mins sounds about right for that wood as its not that dense and not many btus in it.
  6. pgmr

    pgmr Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2006
    Messages:
    396
    Loc:
    Central Indiana
    Our model 80 has the secondary inlets in each of the front, lower corners. It has removable corner panels and one can see, with the panel removed, the channel welded to the inside of the firebox that feeds air to the outlets behind the catalyst chamber. Wouldn't be surprised if the 85 didn't use a similar design to feed the secondary combustor tubes.

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