Building Hearth for my new Englander!

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Picked up my permit this morning! I'm hoping to get some time this weekend to make a trip to Lowes and get some metal studs and durock.

I'm excited!

-SF
 
if you do not find your answer for the joist question online , call simpson at 800-245-6489 ask for a tech , tell them that mike from ESW sent ya , if they dont help ya, i'd be shocked, and i would like to know please, but i doubt they would have any trouble helpin ya out , they have a great staff.
 
I'm going to be using the Selkirk kit from lowes instead of the Simpson kit from TSC. Neither of them had it in stock and since I happened to be at Lowes to pick up some other stuff, I went ahead and ordered it there.

-SF
 
Well, the project has started!

My dad and I started my install last night while my wife and my mom watched movies.

We were able to figure out exactly where the stove will sit, and got the support box installed in my vaulted ceiling! I spent about two hours playing monkey boy in my attic but the box is in and it looks good!

I picked up some tile at lowes. It was on sale for $.79 /sqft!!! I bought all the tile for the hearth pad for under $50. Nice.

We cut the carpet out in the area where the pad will be and started building my steel stud skeleton that will create my dead air space under my pad.

We did notice one thing though. The peak of the ceiling inside the house doesn't match the peak of the roof! As it turns out, running straight up from my stove is going to go almost dead center up through the peak of the roof of my house. Can I get roof flashing to do that? Or will I have to fabricate something?

-SF
 
I'd avoid cutting the ridgepole if possible. It may need an offset added. Can you post interior shot(s) of what you are up against?
 
I was actually surprised to see that there was no ridgepole. I'm assuming that you are referring to some sort of framing in the attic that runs along the length of the peak of the roof right at the peak. The two sheets of plywood come together there, but that's it. I'm going to look into making a mild jog in the chimney in order to come though the roof in the right place.

We almost finished my steel-stud framing for my pad. If they had sold sheet metal screws in packs of 110 instead of 100, I'd be done. :O/

I'm going to call tomorrow and see how soon I can schedule an inspection. Once the inspector takes a look at what I have, I can start putting down the Durock!

I'll have pictures later. They're all on my dad's camera.

-SF
 
If theres no ridge beam then you probably have trusses. but you are still better off getting on one side or the other of the ridge for the flashing. Trying to seal a cap over the ridge could be tough and may lead to future leaks. Id aim for the leward side. Like I said earlier a jog isnt that big of a deal for draft or looks
 
nshif said:
Like I said earlier a jog isnt that big of a deal for draft or looks

Sucks for cleaning though if the jog is up toward the top.
 
Doesnt seem to bother me. its 10' down from the top and the brush just needs a little extra shove when it gets there
 
To give me more room to work with, I'll probably pick up a 2' section of chimney and use that as the first section in my support box. I'll have to take some measurements, but I think that will give me space for the elbows in the attic.

-SF
 
SlyFerret said:
We almost finished my steel-stud framing for my pad. If they had sold sheet metal screws in packs of 110 instead of 100, I'd be done. :O/

-SF

FYI,

For the Durock install, you should be using 1-1/4" or 1-5/8" Durock Brand Steel Screws or similar product, not sheet metal screws.
 
Jim Walsh said:
SlyFerret said:
We almost finished my steel-stud framing for my pad. If they had sold sheet metal screws in packs of 110 instead of 100, I'd be done. :O/

-SF

FYI,

For the Durock install, you should be using 1-1/4" or 1-5/8" Durock Brand Steel Screws or similar product, not sheet metal screws.

I beleive he was installing the metal studs
 
Yeah, the sheet metal screws were to hold the pairs of steel studs together in a "boxed" type of setup. I doubled them up for strength that way.

I'll be using the special durock screws for the durock.

-SF
 
nshif said:
Jim Walsh said:
SlyFerret said:
We almost finished my steel-stud framing for my pad. If they had sold sheet metal screws in packs of 110 instead of 100, I'd be done. :O/

-SF

FYI,

For the Durock install, you should be using 1-1/4" or 1-5/8" Durock Brand Steel Screws or similar product, not sheet metal screws.

I beleive he was installing the metal studs

Yep... just a reminder... as I said the "Durock install"... we see a lot of people use sheet rock screws or similar.
 
Ahh, OK. I've got that stuff down. I took a break in my IT career to run a neighborhood hardware store for four and a half years.

I'm back in IT again, but considering how long I was in hardware and the fact that it's a fairly recent change, I still consider myself a "hardware guy". It's been an interesting change in identity.

-SF
 
The hearth pad is ready for the inspector to look at it tomorrow. If he approves, I'll keep on rolling!

Install5.jpg



-SF
 
The inspector signed off on my framing the other day. Moving forward!

Lots of screws:
Install6.jpg



And three layers of durock later:
Install7.jpg



We have the hearth coming along nicely!

I don't have pictures of the tile yet, but we put down all of the full tiles tonight. We'll put down the ones that need cut either tomorrow or the next day.

-SF
 
And we thought you were all done with the project and burning brightly by now! :p

Looks great, can't wait to see the tile against the white carpet.

Keep working and to-hell with New Years day off!
 
I would be done by now, if I weren't working a full time job in IT, a part time job at Radio shack, and cleaning rental units for a management company. I'll have time to enjoy the stove, but getting time to work on it has been tough. We've made great progress though in the last couple nights.

Maybe by the end of the week I'll have it up and running. If we get a good start on new years day (I'm actually off that day) we can get the last few tiles set, and then focus on the chimney. We should be able to get that done with a few hours of work.

All that is left after that is to grout the tiles and put the stove back in place after the grout is set. I should be able to get the inspector to come out on Thursday or Friday if I'm ready by then.

I think I'm going to use some "dirt colored" grout so that it won't be too hard to keep clean.

We found some beige tiles that match the light beige carpet really well. It won't be much contrast. Eventually the carpet will be ripped out and hardwood will be installed. But that's for another project.

-SF
 
No such luck on getting it going by the end of the week. Now, I'm just hoping that it'll be by the end of the month. Menards and Lowes both said going to take 3 weeks go get my 30 degree offsets in. I was too busy doing grout tonight to get up there to place the order. I'll make my trip up to Menards tomorrow evening.

At least we got the tile down the other night, and the grout went in tonight. Still need to clean up a little more grout residue, but the pad is pretty much done. Just waiting on the chimney. We'll set the stove in place sometime this weekend maybe. I want to give it plenty of time for the thinset to cure before setting the stove on it.

I notice that the levelers on the bottom of the stove's legs are nothing more than some 3/8" bolts. Has anyone ever had problems with cracking tiles by setting the weight of the stove on such small contact points?

-SF
 
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