Building up a firewood trailer

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CTVR6

New Member
Oct 21, 2013
10
Connecticut
Hey folks,

A buddy of mine recently gave me his lightly used TSC utility trailer. I am in the process of making worthy for scrounging. This is what it looks like so far:

photo-24-2hsktq5.jpg


I am not sure how to finish it off and was thinking of 3 options (all PT)

(1) 3 rows of 2 x 6 rails (Heaviest and most expensive, strongest?)
(2) 3 rows of 5/4 x 6 rails (Lighter, cheapest but too weak?)
(3) 1 row 2 x 6 with the rest plywood (Lightest, in the middle in cost but will the plywood hold up?)

Trailer-Options-2jgf9p0.png


Of course I want it to be strong and durable while keeping the weight and cost down. Also, any thoughts on the gate? Thanks in advance!

Eric
 
My suggestion is different. I would use 2 rows of 5/4 spaced about 4" apart. I wouldn't go higher than that. You really shouldn't be loading that little trailer that high. It will be too heavy.
Get a 2x10 to use as a ramp to roll rounds up.
 
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Check the weight rating on the tongue. I bet that's only good for 2000 lb gross. Fresh cut green oak can be 5-6000 lb per cord.

Here's some pics of some rounds with the associated scale weights. This was from an oak that was rotted out of the ground and blow down for 6 months.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/woody-mustash.110700/
 
I'd go with 3 1x6s screwed inside the posts

You say you want strength, but 2x is really overkill. I used 1x on my trailer and I've had it loaded with splits, rounds, scrap metal, etc and I've never thought the side rails would fail. You want to save weight where you can because it gives you more hauling capacity for what's in the trailer ;)

Here's a link to my trailer build thread. You can see the 1x sides and how they turned out

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/my-trailer-rebuild-thread.107452/
 
I would be thinking plywood sheets for simplicity sake.
 
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I would start by cutting those uprights in half. No way will you be able to load that high without creating a dangerous situation. Just one dudes opinion.
 
If the uprights are so high because this will be a multi-purpose trailer thats fine, but Jags is right, loading that trailer that high with pretty much any wood will be sure to overload it

Be careful
 
I would be thinking plywood sheets for simplicity sake.
I agree.....plus, then you can use it for Mulch, Topsoil, bringing Leaves to the town yard
 
I agree.....plus, then you can use it for Mulch, Topsoil, bringing Leaves to the town yard

Except the plywood will not last if left outside. It will delaminate.
 
I say cut the verticals in half, install eye bolts at the midpoints and tie off anything that moves. The long lengths will be held by the verticals and the small rounds will be held in by the existing metal horizontals and tying will give you the weight reduction.
This is coming from a guy that uses a flat bed though..... :rolleyes:
 
I like the stake body idea. Gives good airflow to blow the dust & dirt away during travel.

If you need to haul mulch or leaves, you could always put a thin 3/8" sheet of plywood inside to contain the small stuff.

If you want to use plywood, use the expensive marine grade stuff and put several heavy coats of paint on it paying particular attention to the edges. Thin the paint down so it soaks in really well. Home made creosote (used motor oil) can be a very effective brown stain & water resistant coating.

Dad drove tractor trailer forever pulling flatbeds with wooden side kits. Plywood will last many years if it is prepped and painted properly.
 
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x3 or how many others have said cut those posts in 1/2 or you will be dragging your wood home instead of rolling it.
 
And there is another practical side to shorter sidewalls. Loading. Shorter walls - easier to reach over.
 
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