Burning too hot?

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tsojess

New Member
Jan 15, 2011
9
Northern Lower Michigan
We just installed a Hearthstone Heritage wood burning stove. It is nearly driving us out of the house though no matter what we've tried. I've tried putting in only one piece of wood at a time, it looks like the guy took and average size birch tree (maybe 5-7") and quartered it. Length is 18-20 inches. So I'm not putting in a lot at once. Regardless of the damper (air intake) setting, when I put the new piece in the fire seems to burn full blast, even with the damper fully closed. (We have the outside air intake kit installed, if that matters).

Obviously opening the door allowed it to fill with air, but shouldn't having the damper closed just about choke the fire out, yet if fills the firebox with flame. The pipe temp is staying between 300-350 most of the time, occasionally getting close to 400. But even with the bathroom window open and the front door (house, not stove) open about 4 inches, it is blazing hot in the house. I mean 85-88 in the room with the stove, the adjoining rooms hit low to mid 80's.

I'm wondering if it's possible the damper linkage could have gotten disconnected during shipping or installation. Just seems like there is no control over the fire. We can't leave it burning all night because I'm afraid to load it up with wood. With one stick burning that fast I went through like 4 or 5 that size between 5:30pm and 11:00pm. I don't recall burning that fast in a campfire and that would have all the air it wanted. I'm afraid if I filled it up for the night it would really flare up and burn us and/or the house up.

It's friday night, so probabably won't be able to reach the dealer until monday. Any suggestions?

We've got something just over 900 sq ft that we're heating. 3 of the rooms are more or less one room. The kitchen, dining room, and living room are nearly one long room, with just and archway between them (And really the arch only affect the ceiling. The only thing really keeping them from being one room is that they are slightly offset from each other.
 
tsojess said:
We just installed a Hearthstone Heritage wood burning stove. It is nearly driving us out of the house though no matter what we've tried. I've tried putting in only one piece of wood at a time, it looks like the guy took and average size birch tree (maybe 5-7") and quartered it. Length is 18-20 inches. So I'm not putting in a lot at once. Regardless of the damper (air intake) setting, when I put the new piece in the fire seems to burn full blast, even with the damper fully closed. (We have the outside air intake kit installed, if that matters).

Obviously opening the door allowed it to fill with air, but shouldn't having the damper closed just about choke the fire out, yet if fills the firebox with flame. The pipe temp is staying between 300-350 most of the time, occasionally getting close to 400. But even with the bathroom window open and the front door (house, not stove) open about 4 inches, it is blazing hot in the house. I mean 85-88 in the room with the stove, the adjoining rooms hit low to mid 80's.

I'm wondering if it's possible the damper linkage could have gotten disconnected during shipping or installation. Just seems like there is no control over the fire. We can't leave it burning all night because I'm afraid to load it up with wood. With one stick burning that fast I went through like 4 or 5 that size between 5:30pm and 11:00pm. I don't recall burning that fast in a campfire and that would have all the air it wanted. I'm afraid if I filled it up for the night it would really flare up and burn us and/or the house up.

It's friday night, so probabably won't be able to reach the dealer until monday. Any suggestions?

We've got something just over 900 sq ft that we're heating. 3 of the rooms are more or less one room. The kitchen, dining room, and living room are nearly one long room, with just and archway between them (And really the arch only affect the ceiling. The only thing really keeping them from being one room is that they are slightly offset from each other.

You've given us stove pipe temps, what is the stove top temp on the top center stone? When you say 'damper' I am assuming you mean pipe damper, correct? And 4 or 5 splits in about 6 hours isn't bad. Give us stove top temps. If you are burning overly hot with the air shut down and the pipe damper closed, you might have a gasket issue. Is your ash door closed? I mean really closed?

Most dealers around here (PA) are open on Saturdays.
 
Blazin said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.
 
You've given us stove pipe temps, what is the stove top temp on the top center stone? When you say 'damper' I am assuming you mean pipe damper, correct? And 4 or 5 splits in about 6 hours isn't bad. Give us stove top temps. If you are burning overly hot with the air shut down and the pipe damper closed, you might have a gasket issue. Is your ash door closed? I mean really closed?

Most dealers around here (PA) are open on Saturdays.

Unfortunately, what they installed was only the thermometer for the pipe temp, none for the stove. Was just reading about that and will have to talk to them about that as well.

My terminology was a bit off (I'm a total newbie to wood burning, other than campfires) What I meant was the air intake control. It doesn't seem to have a whole lot of effect on the fire. The one at the dealer's shop usually has this nice low flame, and when I put wood in it, I get a firebox full of flames. I would expect that for a short time after opening the door, but it doesn't seem to die down until the wood is nearly gone.

Ash door is closed and locked. I make it a point to ALWAYS give the handle a pull to make sure it's really hooked as I've noticed that the side door can appear closed but if you don't give it a little push, the latch can miss.

I'll do a dollar bill test in the morning and make sure the doors are fitting tight. CO alarm is showing a constant 0 so no exaust leaks. It did drive the smoke alarm insane during break in. OY!!!!
 
BrowningBAR said:
Blazin said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL
 
tsojess said:
You've given us stove pipe temps, what is the stove top temp on the top center stone? When you say 'damper' I am assuming you mean pipe damper, correct? And 4 or 5 splits in about 6 hours isn't bad. Give us stove top temps. If you are burning overly hot with the air shut down and the pipe damper closed, you might have a gasket issue. Is your ash door closed? I mean really closed?

Most dealers around here (PA) are open on Saturdays.

Unfortunately, what they installed was only the thermometer for the pipe temp, none for the stove. Was just reading about that and will have to talk to them about that as well.

My terminology was a bit off (I'm a total newbie to wood burning, other than campfires) What I meant was the air intake control. It doesn't seem to have a whole lot of effect on the fire. The one at the dealer's shop usually has this nice low flame, and when I put wood in it, I get a firebox full of flames. I would expect that for a short time after opening the door, but it doesn't seem to die down until the wood is nearly gone.

Ash door is closed and locked. I make it a point to ALWAYS give the handle a pull to make sure it's really hooked as I've noticed that the side door can appear closed but if you don't give it a little push, the latch can miss.

I'll do a dollar bill test in the morning and make sure the doors are fitting tight. CO alarm is showing a constant 0 so no exaust leaks. It did drive the smoke alarm insane during break in. OY!!!!


The air control should make a difference. If you are getting roaring fires with the air control shut all the way down, then I would suspect an air leak in one of the doors or ash tray. Go buy a stove thermometer at your local hardware store or buy one online and put it on the top center stone.
 
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
Blazin said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.
 
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
Blazin said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.
 
It sounds like you found something to look at. You still should get a magnetic thermometer on there.

Matt
 
EatenByLimestone said:
It sounds like you found something to look at. You still should get a magnetic thermometer on there.

Matt

Do I use the regular magnetic stove thermometer with the Hearthstone, since it's the temp of the top center stone you monitor?
 
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
Blazin said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.


Grab the handle of the ash tray door, push in and turn the knob towards the close position and it should seal up. The Ash pan door is a bit tricky at times, which is the reason why I mentioned it a few times in the previous posts.
 
tsojess said:
EatenByLimestone said:
It sounds like you found something to look at. You still should get a magnetic thermometer on there.

Matt

Do I use the regular magnetic stove thermometer with the Hearthstone, since it's the temp of the top center stone you monitor?

Magnetic thermometer works fine. Obviously it wont stick to the stone, but the temp reading seem accurate.
 
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
Blazin" date="1295088535 said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.


Grab the handle of the ash tray door, push in and turn the knob towards the close position and it should seal up. The Ash pan door is a bit tricky at times, which is the reason why I mentioned it a few times in the previous posts.

I discovered that even though it appeared to be latched, (it didn't open when I pulled on it) If I really pulled on it, it would open anyway. The ashpan is holding it from latching easilly. I see why the complaints about the design of the ashpan. Anyway, it's more like slam the door hard, push with 110% of my strength, and put my weight into it while turning the handle. THEN it will stay closed no matter how hard I pull.
 
Thanks for reporting back, tsojess. Nicely done , BrowningBAR. It's a pleasure to see someone helped like that.
 
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR" date="1295088787 said:
Blazin" date="1295088535 said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.


Grab the handle of the ash tray door, push in and turn the knob towards the close position and it should seal up. The Ash pan door is a bit tricky at times, which is the reason why I mentioned it a few times in the previous posts.

I discovered that even though it appeared to be latched, (it didn't open when I pulled on it) If I really pulled on it, it would open anyway. The ashpan is holding it from latching easilly. I see why the complaints about the design of the ashpan. Anyway, it's more like slam the door hard, push with 110% of my strength, and put my weight into it while turning the handle. THEN it will stay closed no matter how hard I pull.

Besides the ashpan door, seems the problem with the extreme heat is the wood. Despite living in a heavily wooded area, we found it almost imposible to get any wood as everyone was out or else only had fresh cut. The only seasoned wood we could get was primarily birch, and as it turned out, a lot of it was punky. There is some beach and assorted other woods in with it, but mostly beach. Unfortunatly, birch burns HOT! which in a way is good because it's the only way to get it to burn. I usually have to open the side door and ash door until it gets up some heat or it goes out. (Sometimes I could swear it was coated with fire retardant!)

We were able to buy a pickup load of assorted ash, maple and cedar from the guy that sold us the stove and what a differance. Despite the size differance (The birch had to be 8 - 10" trees, quartered as it is huge and most of this is 1 - 4, maybe 5 inch) yet a piece of birch will burn up in a couple hours and a put in an ash log (3 - 4") and it burned about twice as long. The other differance is heat. After burning the ash mix all evening and having a comfortable 79 - 80 degree temp, I put in once of the birch logs and in just a couple hours the room soared to 88.
 
tsojess said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess" date="1295095683 said:
BrowningBAR" date="1295088787 said:
Blazin" date="1295088535 said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.


Grab the handle of the ash tray door, push in and turn the knob towards the close position and it should seal up. The Ash pan door is a bit tricky at times, which is the reason why I mentioned it a few times in the previous posts.

I discovered that even though it appeared to be latched, (it didn't open when I pulled on it) If I really pulled on it, it would open anyway. The ashpan is holding it from latching easilly. I see why the complaints about the design of the ashpan. Anyway, it's more like slam the door hard, push with 110% of my strength, and put my weight into it while turning the handle. THEN it will stay closed no matter how hard I pull.

Besides the ashpan door, seems the problem with the extreme heat is the wood. Despite living in a heavily wooded area, we found it almost imposible to get any wood as everyone was out or else only had fresh cut. The only seasoned wood we could get was primarily birch, and as it turned out, a lot of it was punky. There is some beach and assorted other woods in with it, but mostly beach. Unfortunatly, birch burns HOT! which in a way is good because it's the only way to get it to burn. I usually have to open the side door and ash door until it gets up some heat or it goes out. (Sometimes I could swear it was coated with fire retardant!)

We were able to buy a pickup load of assorted ash, maple and cedar from the guy that sold us the stove and what a differance. Despite the size differance (The birch had to be 8 - 10" trees, quartered as it is huge and most of this is 1 - 4, maybe 5 inch) yet a piece of birch will burn up in a couple hours and a put in an ash log (3 - 4") and it burned about twice as long. The other differance is heat. After burning the ash mix all evening and having a comfortable 79 - 80 degree temp, I put in once of the birch logs and in just a couple hours the room soared to 88.
I just wanted to violate another rule today with this quote line. hehehehe
 
wkpoor said:
tsojess said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR" date="1295096152 said:
tsojess" date="1295095683 said:
BrowningBAR" date="1295088787 said:
Blazin" date="1295088535 said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.


Grab the handle of the ash tray door, push in and turn the knob towards the close position and it should seal up. The Ash pan door is a bit tricky at times, which is the reason why I mentioned it a few times in the previous posts.

I discovered that even though it appeared to be latched, (it didn't open when I pulled on it) If I really pulled on it, it would open anyway. The ashpan is holding it from latching easilly. I see why the complaints about the design of the ashpan. Anyway, it's more like slam the door hard, push with 110% of my strength, and put my weight into it while turning the handle. THEN it will stay closed no matter how hard I pull.

Besides the ashpan door, seems the problem with the extreme heat is the wood. Despite living in a heavily wooded area, we found it almost imposible to get any wood as everyone was out or else only had fresh cut. The only seasoned wood we could get was primarily birch, and as it turned out, a lot of it was punky. There is some beach and assorted other woods in with it, but mostly beach. Unfortunatly, birch burns HOT! which in a way is good because it's the only way to get it to burn. I usually have to open the side door and ash door until it gets up some heat or it goes out. (Sometimes I could swear it was coated with fire retardant!)

We were able to buy a pickup load of assorted ash, maple and cedar from the guy that sold us the stove and what a differance. Despite the size differance (The birch had to be 8 - 10" trees, quartered as it is huge and most of this is 1 - 4, maybe 5 inch) yet a piece of birch will burn up in a couple hours and a put in an ash log (3 - 4") and it burned about twice as long. The other differance is heat. After burning the ash mix all evening and having a comfortable 79 - 80 degree temp, I put in once of the birch logs and in just a couple hours the room soared to 88.
I just wanted to violate another rule today with this quote line. hehehehe
What do you mean? :lol:
 
Jimbob said:
wkpoor said:
tsojess said:
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
tsojess" date="1295119803 said:
BrowningBAR" date="1295096152 said:
tsojess" date="1295095683 said:
BrowningBAR" date="1295088787 said:
Blazin" date="1295088535 said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Old and drafty and it's still roasting you?! I'd get a stove thermometer on that thing and you might want to think about a pipe damper to help better control the burn in case of an overly strong draft. But I would still check for air leaks on the doors and ash tray.

The ash tray can sometimes seem closed, but if you look closely, it will tell you otherwise.

Think I found it. At the hinge end of the ash door things are fine. At the latch end a dollar bill pulls through top and bottom seals with only the tiniest effort, which means it's also pinched between the ashpan and the door itself (Which has a ridge to hold the pan pushed in tightly.) If I just put it between the top OR bottom seal, it practically falls out on its own. It probably would if the cement slab weren't there.


Grab the handle of the ash tray door, push in and turn the knob towards the close position and it should seal up. The Ash pan door is a bit tricky at times, which is the reason why I mentioned it a few times in the previous posts.

I discovered that even though it appeared to be latched, (it didn't open when I pulled on it) If I really pulled on it, it would open anyway. The ashpan is holding it from latching easilly. I see why the complaints about the design of the ashpan. Anyway, it's more like slam the door hard, push with 110% of my strength, and put my weight into it while turning the handle. THEN it will stay closed no matter how hard I pull.

Besides the ashpan door, seems the problem with the extreme heat is the wood. Despite living in a heavily wooded area, we found it almost imposible to get any wood as everyone was out or else only had fresh cut. The only seasoned wood we could get was primarily birch, and as it turned out, a lot of it was punky. There is some beach and assorted other woods in with it, but mostly beach. Unfortunatly, birch burns HOT! which in a way is good because it's the only way to get it to burn. I usually have to open the side door and ash door until it gets up some heat or it goes out. (Sometimes I could swear it was coated with fire retardant!)

We were able to buy a pickup load of assorted ash, maple and cedar from the guy that sold us the stove and what a differance. Despite the size differance (The birch had to be 8 - 10" trees, quartered as it is huge and most of this is 1 - 4, maybe 5 inch) yet a piece of birch will burn up in a couple hours and a put in an ash log (3 - 4") and it burned about twice as long. The other differance is heat. After burning the ash mix all evening and having a comfortable 79 - 80 degree temp, I put in once of the birch logs and in just a couple hours the room soared to 88.
I just wanted to violate another rule today with this quote line. hehehehe
What do you mean? :lol:
Check that latch when the stove is hot vs cold. Mine gets loose as the stove heats up and I can turn it a little tighter.
 
tsojess said:
BrowningBAR said:
Blazin said:
You realize that stove is rated for more than twice your square footage?

It still seems to be kicking his ass a bit much, though. Especially in his climate.

I knew it was larger than we needed. (I may be remembering wrong on the 900, I just did a rough measure several months ago.) The dealer did measure and we were really close on the Tribute, and because this house is old, cold, damp and drafty, he felt it would be asking a little much and felt we'd be better to go up one model as we were right at the limit on the small one. He said he's put the Heritage in smaller homes with no problems and he prefers it to the homestead because of the side door.

PS I don't mind the kicking it as much as it's trying to burn it right off, LOL

Just to point out, you didn't go up one model. The Tribute is the smallest model in the soapstone line, then comes the Homestead, Phoenix, then the Heritage, after that it's Mansfield and Equinox. That's based on advertised firebox volume. The side door has it's pros and cons...
 
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