Buy or burn less dry? What would you do?

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Looked at their website and cannot find the makeup of the bricks. This is a different company than BioBricks, which is all wood.

They show a horse's head on some of the pages, so maybe they are adding horse manure. I cannot figure out why horse manure brings anything useful to the biomass product.
 
Only if the MM is smarter then you, have no idea why any one would have trouble with something as simple as a MM.
People become fixated on "the number", forgetting that the device is not that accurate, the readings vary between species of wood and 21% wood will actually burn. It's much like the people who claim that their Prius gets 50mpg because the gauge says so. Sometimes.
 
People become fixated on "the number", forgetting that the device is not that accurate, the readings vary between species of wood and 21% wood will actually burn. It's much like the people who claim that their Prius gets 50mpg because the gauge says so. Sometimes.

Well we expect people to learn all the things that go along with wood burning and cutting wood but they cant learn to use a MM, I think you sell people short.
I bought one just because I was curious and they in fact are plenty accurate for our purposes, I have tested newly cut wood all the way to construction lumber and every thing in between, Oak, White Ash, Green Ash, Mulberry, Cherry, Elm, and Silver Maple and a couple I have forgot and all the readings were in line with my 35 years of expeirence. Just a play thing for me but a good thing for many people.
The people who have trouble with MM's are more then likely haveing trouble with other things also, wood burning is easy once you learn all the ins and outs and a MM is one tool that will help them get there.
 
Well we expect people to learn all the things that go along with wood burning and cutting wood but they cant learn to use a MM, I think you sell people short.
I bought one just because I was curious and they in fact are plenty accurate for our purposes, I have tested newly cut wood all the way to construction lumber and every thing in between, Oak, White Ash, Green Ash, Mulberry, Cherry, Elm, and Silver Maple and a couple I have forgot and all the readings were in line with my 35 years of expeirence. Just a play thing for me but a good thing for many people.
The people who have trouble with MM's are more then likely haveing trouble with other things also, wood burning is easy once you learn all the ins and outs and a MM is one tool that will help them get there.
If handling a MM is giving them trouble can you imagine the frustration they must be having trying to run a chainsaw! Yikes! !!!

No MM aren't perfectly accurate, but they are probably more accurate than the gas gauge in your car, or your typical wood stove thermometer, or a lot of other gauges we commonly read everyday. Why should a MM need to be any more accurate than the gas gauge on your car? If your MM is telling you your wood MC is reading anywhere between 10% and 22% that aught to be close enough I would think.
 
$250 a ton is a good proce, but I guess you have to cart them home form the fair.

Since when are they using horse manure? They used to be 100% wood.

I watched the video on their site. Owner says that they have a lot of manure around and that it burns better than wood. At the fair the $250 is actually for delivery in CT or MA
 
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If handling a MM is giving them trouble can you imagine the frustration they must be having trying to run a chainsaw! Yikes! !!!

No MM aren't perfectly accurate, but they are probably more accurate than the gas gauge in your car, or your typical wood stove thermometer, or a lot of other gauges we commonly read everyday. Why should a MM need to be any more accurate than the gas gauge on your car? If your MM is telling you your wood MC is reading anywhere between 10% and 22% that aught to be close enough I would think.

I had no problem learning a MM or more recently a chainsaw, but to your previous point, I am uncomfortable (and lack the tools & training for) cleaning my own fireplace. I did just have a full stainless steel liner installed. Does that factor in? Also, I am somewhat skeptical but would burning something like this once a month help?

6408321.jpg
 
I had no problem learning a MM or more recently a chainsaw, but to your previous point, I am uncomfortable (and lack the tools & training for) cleaning my own fireplace. I did just have a full stainless steel liner installed. Does that factor in? Also, I am somewhat skeptical but would burning something like this once a month help?

6408321.jpg
I have no experience with those things you burn in your stove to (help) keep your chimney clean. From what I have read here in the forum, from people who have used them, they do help, to some degree, to keep the creosote less sticky and drier. But even dry creosote build up needs to be swept out regularly.
Sweeping a chimney can be pretty easy, you just have to figure out whether you'll be sweeping yours from below, or up on the roof. If your chimney is a straight run it's usually a piece of cake and any chimney rods will do, if it has bends in the chimney you might want to get one of those more flexible rod system,,,, can't remember the name of them, perhaps somebody else knows what they are called?
 
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I had no problem learning a MM or more recently a chainsaw, but to your previous point, I am uncomfortable (and lack the tools & training for) cleaning my own fireplace. I did just have a full stainless steel liner installed. Does that factor in? Also, I am somewhat skeptical but would burning something like this once a month help?

6408321.jpg
I remember asking the fire department what they thought of these and they told me it may help but weren't aware of any studies saying that they could recommend replacing a good sweep with one of these.
 
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I remember asking the fire department what they thought of these and they told me it may help but weren't aware of any studies saying that they could recommend replacing a good sweep with one of these.

I have to think a good look see and cleaning will be your best bet, no wondering how clean the chimney is.
 
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I have a two-stage early warning system. Stage one is the sound of creosote tinkling down my stovepipe. It sounds a little like rain. Stage two is when the stove starts drawing poorly. The creosote flakes falling down the pipe obstruct the exit from the stove. This all happens long before there is significant accumlation on the pipe wall.
 
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for those that mentioned using the EnviBlocks, are you using just to supplement with semi-seasoned wood? like using 1 Envi with a bunch of splits ? Would this help prevent creosote because your stove is burning hotter??
 
I had no problem learning a MM or more recently a chainsaw, but to your previous point, I am uncomfortable (and lack the tools & training for) cleaning my own fireplace. I did just have a full stainless steel liner installed. Does that factor in? Also, I am somewhat skeptical but would burning something like this once a month help?

6408321.jpg
No matter what, you still need to clean your chimney/flue. It'll even say it on the log packaging.

I use the Rutland little tubes that you toss on a fire, every few weeks. I cleaned the flue with a Sooteater and it came out very clean. The Chimney Sweep log has similar components as the Rutland, and it makes the creosote flaky. Easier to clean flaky than gooey.
 
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I have no experience with those things you burn in your stove to (help) keep your chimney clean. From what I have read here in the forum, from people who have used them, they do help, to some degree, to keep the creosote less sticky and drier. But even dry creosote build up needs to be swept out regularly.
Sweeping a chimney can be pretty easy, you just have to figure out whether you'll be sweeping yours from below, or up on the roof. If your chimney is a straight run it's usually a piece of cake and any chimney rods will do, if it has bends in the chimney you might want to get one of those more flexible rod system,,,, can't remember the name of them, perhaps somebody else knows what they are called?

I'll look into that. Thanks!
 
I have a two-stage early warning system. Stage one is the sound of creosote tinkling down my stovepipe. It sounds a little like rain. Stage two is when the stove starts drawing poorly. The creosote flakes falling down the pipe obstruct the exit from the stove. This all happens long before there is significant accumlation on the pipe wall.

Very helpful; thanks! I actually did hear the creosote "rain" before I had it cleaned recently.
 
I know a moisture meter isn't 100% accurate, but don't you think they help at least give a ballpark on where the wood is?

They can if used right. Still, I have found no use for one for over 50 years and have no plans on buying one ever.
 
Very helpful; thanks! I actually did hear the creosote "rain" before I had it cleaned recently.


Bill, there is a very good reason why most of us recommend new wood burners check their chimneys monthly for their first couple years.
 
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If I had the wood I would burn it, rather than buy it, regardless of the moisture content. Check the chimney often and mix drier wood with greener. Just like Dennis said, get ahead a little more each year, devote an hour or so a few days a week, and it'll add up pretty quick.

As for the kids, they can be a great help. I will split for about 15-20 minutes, then call them out. I'll tell them they stack while I keep splitting. When they catch up with me we're done and get ice cream.

Works for older people too if you want to promise beer!

Hahaha! That was hilarious and insightful. Good for the first time burner like me. Can't wait till my little one is big enough to help stack wood!
 
. I did just have a full stainless steel liner installed. Does that factor in?
Absolutely! Stainless steel liners are even easier to clean than masonry chimneys.
As I said, you just have to figure out the easiest method of cleaning your particular chimney. If you have easy roof access to your chimney, and don't mind getting up there, that might be the easiest for you. If not, you'll want to look into some method of cleaning from below.Some people can push the rods and brush right up through the stove door opening, others disconnect the lower stove pipe to gain access. In some case the flue has a T in the line (usually external), and they remove a cap on the bottom of the T to feed the brush up from.
There is no right or wrong way of doing it, but they all have pros and cons. Once you figure out your system and do it a couple times it's gets pretty easy and straight forward.
I clean my chimney from the roof, I like it because the creosote just falls down into the stove where it can be burned with the next fire. Also I can better clean the chimney cap from above, something that can be a bit tougher to do thoroughly from below. Cleaning from below you have to figure out some system of catching, or avoiding, the creosote as it falls down the flue while you are running the brush up there.

 
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for those that mentioned using the EnviBlocks, are you using just to supplement with semi-seasoned wood? like using 1 Envi with a bunch of splits ? Would this help prevent creosote because your stove is burning hotter??
I plan on mixing blocks and splits and a burn of just blocks every day or two
A friend burns green wood (oak) mixed with pea coal and coal only 2 x a week (in a fat boy coal cook stove) he say flue stays clean.
 
Absolutely! Stainless steel liners are even easier to clean than masonry chimneys.
As I said, you just have to figure out the easiest method of cleaning your particular chimney. If you have easy roof access to your chimney, and don't mind getting up there, that might be the easiest for you. If not, you'll want to look into some method of cleaning from below.Some people can push the rods and brush right up through the stove door opening, others disconnect the lower stove pipe to gain access. In some case the flue has a T in the line (usually external), and they remove a cap on the bottom of the T to feed the brush up from.
There is no right or wrong way of doing it, but they all have pros and cons. Once you figure out your system and do it a couple times it's gets pretty easy and straight forward.
I clean my chimney from the roof, I like it because the creosote just falls down into the stove where it can be burned with the next fire. Also I can better clean the chimney cap from above, something that can be a bit tougher to do thoroughly from below. Cleaning from below you have to figure out some system of catching, or avoiding, the creosote as it falls down the flue while you are running the brush up there.



Thanks, again. Will definitely watch this!
 
Brickenmore products are made using horse manure, it is not a wood based product. They do burn hotter and longer than competitive sawdust bricks, and price does not fluctuate due to availability. Delivery is available (at a small cost). They have been granted the USDA 100% biomass product label.

Is the $250 a ton the correct price?
 
Horse manure is a major non-point contaminant to the watersheds and lands. Brickenmore has a solution of providing an affordable heating source, which is renewable. The product is patented and has been awarded the USDA 100% Biopreferred product label. In consideration of the composition of these bricks, they do burn hotter and longer than current "saw dust" bricks on the market, while assisting with removal of contaminants. Keep in mind, these products are patented, and their composition does contain manure.

Hey I would like to try this product out, I live in CT and work in springfiled MA. do you sell these from your address in Ellington?
Do you have a sample size?
 
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