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Cabin Build Questions

Post in 'DIY and General non-hearth advice' started by thewoodlands, Nov 2, 2011.

  1. iskiatomic

    iskiatomic Minister of Fire

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    Zap for your neck of the woods, that seems like a pretty flat roof.


    KC

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  2. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    Ncountry, the shiplapping looks good, are there other options?

    iskiatomic, I'll check the plans but I think thats what they call for. Is it a big job to change it?


    zap
  3. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    3/8 is too small for any building. Minimum 1/2". I'd go 5/8 @ 19"on center, if I ever intended to stand on that roof
  4. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    gzecc, I plan on going with 3/4 inch, that is what the rest of the siding calls for too.

    zap
  5. woodgeek

    woodgeek Minister of Fire

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    I assume there are elements that resist shear loads and 'racking'....subbing the plywood for planks might decrease shear stability, but diagonal elements should fix that. ??
  6. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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  7. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    I think the plans called for T-1 11 which would perform as shear bracing, looks like metal bracing straps can be used for diagonal bracing. Going with board & batten on the outside.


    zap
  8. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    woodgeek, not many places sell the metal strapping up here. Just sent our code officer a email to confirm what we need.
    This is the only strapping I could find, I don't think this is the correct stuff.

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_60770-318-5...&Ntt=60770&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24

    zap
  9. Ncountry

    Ncountry Member

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    Other than another layer under the finished layer , nothing is coming to mind... yet. Ship lap is easily done on a table saw. The problem with t&g on wide plank floor, esp.. with less then dry material,is that the t&g is not deep enough and often will completely separate .
  10. woodgeek

    woodgeek Minister of Fire

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    I'm no expert, just wouldn't want a house racking back and forth in the wind.
  11. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    Milling question; If I start milling 2 x 10's this weekend for the floor joist (save some money) when will they be ready to go?


    zap
  12. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    If your screwing them right away. Issue on the floor joist is keeping them straight. Strap your bundles up tight. Then they will be ready when you are. Losts of the smaller racket straps. Should be some really cheap 1 inch ones out there.
  13. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    That should save us close to $300.00 bucks just for the floor joist.



    zap
  14. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    I think all of your sticker stacks should be racketed down snug ed and check once a week. 2x10 are costly.
  15. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    If I'm not going to plane the 2 x 10's I'm milling tomorrow should I make them to Nominal size or Actual size? The 2 x 10's will be milled from white pine, which I have read doesn't shrink much.

    zap
  16. Danno77

    Danno77 Minister of Fire

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    Shouldn't matter since it's just the floor joists.
  17. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    +1 I like the real 2x10. But for some reason you come up short you would want to match it. (If there is a chances of that)
  18. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands Minister of Fire

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    Glad you did ask the question, called the company we bought the plans from and since we are not using T1-11 for siding underneath we would need strapping or blocking (which we will have to do besides for the board & batten) blocking is acceptable according to our code officer here.

    Thanks for the heads up.


    zap

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