Cabin Build Questions

[iskiatomic]

I think the roof is a 3/12 pitch,

Zap for your neck of the woods, that seems like a pretty flat roof.


KC

 

[thewoodlands]

Ncountry, the shiplapping looks good, are there other options?

iskiatomic, I'll check the plans but I think thats what they call for. Is it a big job to change it?


zap

 

[gzecc]

Just some questions on the milling for the cabin. The roof calls for 3/8 inch plywood but we want to save some money so we lan on milling our own boards, will white pine or hemlock at that thickness be strong enough?

The flooring on the inside of the cabin calls for 3/4 inch, we will be using either white pine or hemlock, will it be strong enough?



zap

http://www.townandcountryplans.com/klondike.html

3/8 is too small for any building. Minimum 1/2". I'd go 5/8 @ 19"on center, if I ever intended to stand on that roof

 

[thewoodlands]

Just some questions on the milling for the cabin. The roof calls for 3/8 inch plywood but we want to save some money so we lan on milling our own boards, will white pine or hemlock at that thickness be strong enough?

The flooring on the inside of the cabin calls for 3/4 inch, we will be using either white pine or hemlock, will it be strong enough?



zap

http://www.townandcountryplans.com/klondike.html

3/8 is too small for any building. Minimum 1/2". I'd go 5/8 @ 19"on center, if I ever intended to stand on that roof

gzecc, I plan on going with 3/4 inch, that is what the rest of the siding calls for too.

zap

 

[woodgeek]

I assume there are elements that resist shear loads and 'racking'....subbing the plywood for planks might decrease shear stability, but diagonal elements should fix that. ??

 

[gzecc]

Just some questions on the milling for the cabin. The roof calls for 3/8 inch plywood but we want to save some money so we lan on milling our own boards, will white pine or hemlock at that thickness be strong enough?

The flooring on the inside of the cabin calls for 3/4 inch, we will be using either white pine or hemlock, will it be strong enough?



zap

http://www.townandcountryplans.com/klondike.html

3/8 is too small for any building. Minimum 1/2". I'd go 5/8 @ 16"on center, if I ever intended to stand on that roof

gzecc, I plan on going with 3/4 inch, that is what the rest of the siding calls for too.

zap

 

[thewoodlands]

I assume there are elements that resist shear loads and 'racking'....subbing the plywood for planks might decrease shear stability, but diagonal elements should fix that. ??

I think the plans called for T-1 11 which would perform as shear bracing, looks like metal bracing straps can be used for diagonal bracing. Going with board & batten on the outside.


zap

 

[thewoodlands]

I assume there are elements that resist shear loads and 'racking'....subbing the plywood for planks might decrease shear stability, but diagonal elements should fix that. ??

woodgeek, not many places sell the metal strapping up here. Just sent our code officer a email to confirm what we need.
This is the only strapping I could find, I don't think this is the correct stuff.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_60770-318-5...&Ntt=60770&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24

zap

 

[Ncountry]

Ncountry, the shiplapping looks good, are there other options?

iskiatomic, I'll check the plans but I think thats what they call for. Is it a big job to change it?


zap

Other than another layer under the finished layer , nothing is coming to mind... yet. Ship lap is easily done on a table saw. The problem with t&g on wide plank floor, esp.. with less then dry material,is that the t&g is not deep enough and often will completely separate .

 

[woodgeek]

I assume there are elements that resist shear loads and 'racking'....subbing the plywood for planks might decrease shear stability, but diagonal elements should fix that. ??

woodgeek, not many places sell the metal strapping up here. Just sent our code officer a email to confirm what we need.
This is the only strapping I could find, I don't think this is the correct stuff.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_60770-318-5...&Ntt=60770&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24

zap

I'm no expert, just wouldn't want a house racking back and forth in the wind.

 

[thewoodlands]

Milling question; If I start milling 2 x 10's this weekend for the floor joist (save some money) when will they be ready to go?


zap

 

[smokinj]

Milling question; If I start milling 2 x 10's this weekend for the floor joist (save some money) when will they be ready to go?


zap

If your screwing them right away. Issue on the floor joist is keeping them straight. Strap your bundles up tight. Then they will be ready when you are. Losts of the smaller racket straps. Should be some really cheap 1 inch ones out there.

 

[thewoodlands]

Milling question; If I start milling 2 x 10's this weekend for the floor joist (save some money) when will they be ready to go?


zap

If your screwing them right away. Issue on the floor joist is keeping them straight. Strap your bundles up tight. Then they will be ready when you are. Losts of the smaller racket straps. Should be some really cheap 1 inch ones out there.

That should save us close to $300.00 bucks just for the floor joist.



zap

 

[smokinj]

Milling question; If I start milling 2 x 10's this weekend for the floor joist (save some money) when will they be ready to go?


zap

If your screwing them right away. Issue on the floor joist is keeping them straight. Strap your bundles up tight. Then they will be ready when you are. Losts of the smaller racket straps. Should be some really cheap 1 inch ones out there.

That should save us close to $300.00 bucks just for the floor joist.



zap

I think all of your sticker stacks should be racketed down snug ed and check once a week. 2x10 are costly.

 

[thewoodlands]

If I'm not going to plane the 2 x 10's I'm milling tomorrow should I make them to Nominal size or Actual size? The 2 x 10's will be milled from white pine, which I have read doesn't shrink much.

zap

 

[Danno77]

Shouldn't matter since it's just the floor joists.

 

[smokinj]

Shouldn't matter since it's just the floor joists.

+1 I like the real 2x10. But for some reason you come up short you would want to match it. (If there is a chances of that)

 

[thewoodlands]

I assume there are elements that resist shear loads and 'racking'....subbing the plywood for planks might decrease shear stability, but diagonal elements should fix that. ??

woodgeek, not many places sell the metal strapping up here. Just sent our code officer a email to confirm what we need.
This is the only strapping I could find, I don't think this is the correct stuff.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_60770-318-5...&Ntt=60770&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24

zap

I'm no expert, just wouldn't want a house racking back and forth in the wind.

Glad you did ask the question, called the company we bought the plans from and since we are not using T1-11 for siding underneath we would need strapping or blocking (which we will have to do besides for the board & batten) blocking is acceptable according to our code officer here.

Thanks for the heads up.


zap