Calling all eastern MA southern NH members I need help

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
E

elkimmeg

Guest
A fellow member Turner-n-burner needs help located on the Northshore, He is installing an insert with full insulation liner I plan to help him Saturday
Her assures me the ref will be stocked with beer I know we are not going to have a get together but this might be the closest thing to one.

It would be great if our Ct video guys could film this so all can see the installation and members participating

Turner I need a picture of the outside to get an idea of what involved. and the inside fireplace

his PM to me.

Hi Elk,

Lots of details and pictures here:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/1822/

Any questions, you can call me at 978-835-1701.

You know this process far better than I but...

Need a ladder with standoffs to get on the roof or a really tall one to reach the chimney
Need big brass ones to climb the really tall ladder... !
Need a grinder to cut the damper frame...

I think I have all the basic tools... will make sure batteries are charged and beer is in the fridge.

I have a hammer drill, bits and tapcons if necessary.

Don't know if you need anything special to coax the liner down the chimney or if the insulation effects that... I have rope somewhere and could make a quick nose cone.

I do have a appliance dolly and several furniture dollies. Will double check for round stock to roll the insert on.

What do you suggest for a block off plate and sealant? I will pick that up. I figure there should be a fair bit of extra liner insulation to use on top of the plate.

I see I need another carbon monoxide detector too.

Anything else I need?

duct tape I have rope I got the sheetmetal for the block off Got the shetmetal nips and cutters and crimpers 4" gringer with thin cutting wheel

Home depot 3m fire block deaft sealant 136 We can use that to seal the damper plate and the area around the pipe 1/2" sheet metal screws phillips heads and I need to know what ladder to bring I will throw in blocking and stull I think we might need

For those who want to see the most powerfull electric splitter in existance I could bring that too as that all can demo it If I have room ..

Ps I tried to call but got the busy signal


-Dan
 
Hey you guys are great, you can PM me your choices of beer and favorite BBQ'ed meats... I'd like to book the Saturday after, for a french drain digging party... :p
 
Marty I was in PITS a while back, No shovel but I did stay in a holiday inn the only digging instrurment I brought was a sand wedge.

Luckilly I came in my car rumor has it motorcycling in Pitts is dangerous. Especially without a licence and helmet
 
Luckilly I came in my car rumor has it motorcycling in Pitts is dangerous. Especially without a licence and helmet

Yes may cause acute appendicitis, and severe headache, and nasal cavity problems, also severe toothache!
 
hardwood715 said:
Luckilly I came in my car rumor has it motorcycling in Pitts is dangerous. Especially without a licence and helmet

Yes may cause acute appendicitis, and severe headache, and nasal cavity problems, also severe toothache!
Not to mention frequent recurring overthrows and interceptions... arrgghhh!
 
Marty said:
hardwood715 said:
Luckilly I came in my car rumor has it motorcycling in Pitts is dangerous. Especially without a licence and helmet

Yes may cause acute appendicitis, and severe headache, and nasal cavity problems, also severe toothache!
Not to mention frequent recurring overthrows and interceptions... arrgghhh!

Very strange the effects of a head vaulted at a solid object at 35+ mph are... Every weekend I find myself screaming: "Put in Batch!"
 
Well Elk, I can help give some hints tips. Installation tools include Furnace cement, enough mineral wool insulation (or kaowool, rock wool, slag insulation, goes by many names) to line the fireplace along with some tapcons to hold it, washers (for tapcons), allen wrenches, socket set, and a phillips screwdriver, (Optional) 600F aluminum tape. Maybe it comes with an allen wrench but the 2 screws for the baffle are allen wrench. Some of this will only make sense once you see it in front of you.

The Clydesdale doesn't have a rear heat shield. The air channels run underneath, up the sides, over the top, and out the front. Line the fireplace with mineral wool insulation fastened with tapcons because that's an outside chimney, and not having a rear heat shield insulating inside the fireplace would be particularly beneficial and take almost no time. I think it doesn't have a back heat shield so it would fit in tighter fireplaces.

Before bringing it in remove the facade to make it lighter. It's as simple as 2 phillips screws on the top back corners of the "cooking surface" (they call it the facade). Open the door, loosen those 2 screws, there's small metal pieces on those screws, flip them up, lift the facade up, and off. Now you have access to swap the door and should be done at this time if you like.

I put mineral wool above my block-off.

It should be installed sticking out on the hearth as far as possible, manual says it can be pushed in or pulled out 5". The channels on the top match up to openings in the surround but they're fixed, and only line up when the insert is installed pulled out. The further you push the insert into the fireplace the more the heat comes out behind the surround. Not very useful there, particularly when there's no power you won't have the blowers to help bridge it. That also means, 23" for a hearth for clearances (5" sticking out + 18" in front of loading door).

If you have to assemble the secondary baffle, the baffle ceramic insulation should be pushed back almost as far as it can go but leave a gap to allow for expansion of the metal around it. The front should have the most space, that ensures that the back & sides are tight forcing the air flow forward.

After it's in place but before putting on the surround short circuit the blowers to turn them on. Feel & look around the sides, back, and top for gaps in the air channels the blowers run. The channels are mostly cast iron and may have air leaks. I filled the leaks with furnace cement, amount of increased air flow out the top was noticeable. Then notice how the sliding bracket that holds the surround goes directly into the channels the heat comes out of (on top). There's about a 1" gap between the bracket and sides of the heat channel. Any air blowing up that gap hits the bracket instead of going into the living area. I put a tiny piece of mineral wool insulation to plug that gap, now all the air has no choice but to come out into the living area. And lastly (Optional) the air channels on top, they look like mouse ears. Notice there's a hole cut out to allow access to a screw below. Although it makes no difference when the blowers are on, when there's no power I feel the heat will be coming out that hole. I covered the hole in each channel with the 600F tape. I got the tape at Aubuchaun Hardware but it's expensive. I felt though, without power I'd be glad I did it.

When you put on the surround, make sure you use the levelling feat on the surround to raise it above the heat channels of the top (the mouse ears). It's possible to accidentally have the surround low enough to block the channels. If that leaves a gap off the floor have Turner purchase the optional surround feet if he didn't already, they allow the surround to be higher than normal and cover the gap.

Also, I'd double the time for the "break-in" procedure. Hearthstone is short on soapstone, you certainly don't want to be quick with the break-in and risk having to replace any of it. So, extra slow on the break in and twice as many. So far everyone who's broken-in the Clydesdale had no "break-in" smell whatsoever from curing.

Common problems include a buzzing air handle when the blowers kick on. My first year I used a piece of aluminum flashing under the air handle. This year, I put on my blower housing in such a way the air handle doesn't buzz anymore. The blower housing is tricky. When putting it on, just try to figure out how to attach it as quick as possible and don't try to line everything up perfectly and hopefully you'll put it on the way I did.

Best of luck to you both! All the stuff here is getting just a little more out of it, but the littles add up to be worth it especially over time in my opinion.
 
Help someone that can share task and complete them . A chance to do a good deed in behalf of the Hearth
Chance to film it to be available for others to see awhat is involved and to judge if they can DYI. Or if not get an education about the process.
A chance to meet members I feel I know faily well A chance t Install a liner, with rope in one hand and a beer in the other.

This is not the only planned Hearth.com community effort. VC is shipping me 3 stoves an Encore a DW large and aDW2500 insert. The Donor program is confirmed.
All I have to go to a freight terminal and pick them up next week. I will make the formal announcement in a new post tonight
 
PM me if you need anything to help with install or cutting. I have access to some safety harness equipment that can be tied off around the chimney (in case that ladder slips) I may be available give me a location and time, and maybe a list of other things needed.
 
harness sounds like PE and should be worn sounds good I planning 10:eek:o saturday in burlington he is PM to me the address
thanks
 
Turner's Pm asked what Beer should he get I can't answer that question because I have no idea who on this forum will assist me
Turner is located in Burlington I plan to arrive between 10 and 10:30 I could use help. and meet fellow members only one has stepped forward GVA
Turner needs to pm me the address

So what beer should we a request
 
Beer is beer and free is even better. I still need to know what if any tools you may require?
Where is everyone from eastern mass, why don't you want to help?
 
I'm suprised Judging from this response, Turner all you need is a 40 oz bottle of Bud and a couple of glasses
Silver bullits works, bud light works, Sam Adams works. Molson works, those cute little keg cans works
diet coke works or pepsi. I don't eat vegie burgers. I consume enough sawdust during the week
 
OK ! Beer and Burgers I can do ! There'll be Xtra for any last minute drop-ins !!

Elk - my address was in that PM - it's #5 Spring Valley Road in Burlington MA.

Really looking forward to meeting anyone who can make it!



-Dan
 
I'm bummed it's happening this weekend because I'd probably be there to help another Clydesdale user but I'm going to be in Burlington this weekend, Vermont that is.
 
Elk, I'm in Western mass and would love to help but I have a crazy weekend...Leaves Sat, Patsv.Colts sunday!
 
Leaves, sell them on Ebay and have the buyer pick them up Lame Pats on Sunday night In Bill we trust but not as a fashion designer. I have to cut off the hood to my sweatshirt
 

Attachments

  • 1105430391_8177.jpg
    1105430391_8177.jpg
    11.4 KB · Views: 304
I'm 20 miles away so I'll probably leave here at about 9:45 I still need to stop at hd and get some cut off wheels.
And I'll bring the digital cam and laptop and burn some videos to disc and then one of us can try to figure out how to upload them to "flue tube" while waiting for the pats to play. :cheese:
 
Western MA here, and unfortuantely, Ive got to work the weekends, but i woul dhave loved to show up and offer you all kinds of insightful advice. Have to hand it to you all, taking time to help these guys! Dont get hurt!
 
Last post before I hit the road. The truck is packed with tools planks and stuff ,Trying to anticiapate what I may run up against.

If all goes well we will have a cold one and great time
 
Status
Not open for further replies.