Can a flex liner attach to stove collar?

[BucksCounty]

I like the look of this set up and would like my install to look similar. Is a "T" a necessity with a flex liner? Or can the flex liner attach to the stove itself and I could paint the liner black where it meets the stove? Just trying to get the cleanest look.

 

[BrotherBart]

You can do it but using a stove adapter makes more sense. Less wear and tear on the thin liner when you need to disconnect from the stove and reconnect it. Just connect the stove adapter to the liner and connect it to the stove.

 

[Todd]

Yeah, use an adapter, they're about 4" long and would make a better connection. If you decide to paint the liner you will have to wipe the liner with a scrubby pad and soap to get the light coat of oil off so the paint will stick.

 

[ckarotka]

I just did this. 6" liner to an adapter into a stove collar. Worked like a charm. Just predrill through the holes in the collar for the screws and remember stainless is very hard, so use a sharp bit.

 

[theheatelement]

Your flex is actually the same size as the hole your trying to get it to fit on to... You will have to use that adapter and it will go from big to small to let the creosote drip in

 

[BucksCounty]

Another question about the liner. The terra cota is 13 X13. I thought it was 8, boy was I wrong. Would it be ok to just blanket the liner the last couple feet (where the chimney is exposed to the air) and not blanket the rest further down the chimney which runs through the garage?

 

[jtp10181]

Another question about the liner. The terra cota is 13 X13. I thought it was 8, boy was I wrong. Would it be ok to just blanket the liner the last couple feet (where the chimney is exposed to the air) and not blanket the rest further down the chimney which runs through the garage?

Can you verify that your chimney structure has a 2" air gap between the masonry and any combustibles all the way up and on all sides?

How about the air gap required inside the chimney between the clay tiles and the block structure?

If not, then the liner should be fully insulated to meet safety standards.

 

[cycloxer]

Here's what I did. I just went right from the liner to the adapter, to the stove. Everything is glued & screwed & painted with Stove Bright.

 

[vvvv]

Here's what I did. I just went right from the liner to the adapter, to the stove. Everything is glued & screwed & painted with Stove Bright.

i dunno the configuration of that fireplace is above the ceiling but what do u think the thermal conduction might be thru the brix? =should u have a blower on the stove?

 

[cycloxer]

I've got a blower too, but it is certainly not necessary. I just use it to help the air circulate around the stove a little better. When I want more heat faster, I turn on the blower. When I want to just cruise, I turn it off. The steel block-off plate is sealed around the perimeter with 600°F caulking and insulated with 3" thick Rockboard. The top of my chimney is also completely sealed off and insulated with another 3" rockboard plug. So my system is close to perfectly air-tight and I have zero heat loss up the chimney. It took a little bit of time to fabricate, but you get to reap the rewards of the fully sealed system forever. The chimney is 1/2 interior through the garage and then 1/2 exterior. It is full masonry chimney with clay liner. There are no combustibles anywhere near the brick. The brick fireplace actually works as a nice heat sink and radiates heat long after the stove has cooled down. It works just fine.

The point is, yes, you can run your liner right into your stove with the liner adapter (a $25 part). It gives you a very tight system with minimal joints. I sprayed the liner with stove paint. I didn't have to rough it up or anything.

 

[BucksCounty]

Cycloxer, Thank you for the pics. That is exactly what I was thinking. What is rockboard? Is it similar to rockwool? I have a couple issues with the damper in the fireplace. I don't see the liner fitting through and I might need to do some cutting? You seem to have a very similar set up with chimney, clay liner, through the garage, etc. I ordered Micore today because I need to extend the hearth 12 inches in the front and I want to get the bluestone hearth extension level with what is there for the exsisting fireplace. I want to get this done, but I also want to make install it correctly and safely.

 

[cycloxer]

Roxul Rockboard is just a rigidized board version of Rockwool. Either will work.

http://www.roxul.com/commercial/products/

For your damper, you have to either remove the plate or lock it into place to be legal. If you don't have enough space to slip the liner through, then you need to use a cutoff saw to enlarge the opening.

If you spend the time to make a block-off plate out of steel and then insulate it on the back you will prevent heat loss up the chimney and provide a fireproof barrier between your chimney and your house. It is totally the way to go for safety and efficiency. You can connect to your stove either via a top mount or rear mount. They both have their advantages. I'd do whatever works and looks best on your hearth.