Can a new ZC fireplace be inset in to the rock?

[allroadCole]

Hi, this is my first post here

I've decided to replace my current 30 year old wood stove with a FPX 44 Elite.

I've been sketching up fireplace design ideas, and I really like the idea of insetting the fireplace in to the rock surround 4" to 6", something like this:

You can see how the fireplace is back behind the rock. Basically, the fireplace is flush with the wood wall, and all the rock comes out 6".

But I'm not sure if this is possible.

I'm using cultured stone, and it is only a couple inches thick. So to get the extra depth I would have to come from framing, but all the framing below the mantle would have to be non-combustible.

Can I build this with metal studs? Or just stack concrete blocks? Other ideas?

Any other thoughts or feedback about the design is also appreciated.

Here is what it is replacing:

Thanks!

 

[bholler]

So it looks like you have a masory fireplace now with an insert in it correct? If so why are you looking at zeroclearance units? To put in a zc unit you would probably end up having to tear down the fireplace

 

[madison]

Could you add some other pictures, ie, from outside the white door to the right of the hearth --- what is behind the current insert? Is it a masonry fireplace and tiled chimney ? etc.

As you know the cultured stone thickness is not 6", but more like 2-3". If there is enough space to frame and install, and exhaust (chimney) the fpx, than the cultured stone would be installed last. Real stone, which could be thicker, look nicer, would add a bit to this expensive project.

Also, your mockup drawing, which is really well done, looks as though your are really undersizing the hearth extension which I would hazard a guess should bea min. of 16" from the front of the stove glass.

If you haven't already, download and thoroughly read the install manual for clearances.

Also, I really like the board and batten wood on that wall.

 

[allroadCole]

So it looks like you have a masory fireplace now with an insert in it correct? If so why are you looking at zeroclearance units? To put in a zc unit you would probably end up having to tear down the fireplace

Correct, I'm tearing out everything that is there now.

 

[allroadCole]

Could you add some other pictures, ie, from outside the white door to the right of the hearth --- what is behind the current insert? Is it a masonry fireplace and tiled chimney ? etc.

As you know the cultured stone thickness is not 6", but more like 2-3". If there is enough space to frame and install, and exhaust (chimney) the fpx, than the cultured stone would be installed last. Real stone, which could be thicker, look nicer, would add a bit to this expensive project.

Also, your mockup drawing, which is really well done, looks as though your are really undersizing the hearth extension which I would hazard a guess should bea min. of 16" from the front of the stove glass.

If you haven't already, download and thoroughly read the install manual for clearances.

Also, I really like the board and batten wood on that wall.

Thanks,

Here is a picture of what is outside:

The fireplace cavity extends in to the garage, it is a total of 8' wide. So there is plenty of room for the new fireplace and chimney.

I want to use cultured stone because it does not require engineering and it is cheaper and easier to work with.

The hearth extends 16" in front of the fireplace glass.

Any idea if I could use steel studs to push the framing out in front of the fireplace? Like in my picture?

Thanks,

 

[bholler]

Follow the manufactures instructions for that they will tell you where combustibles can be and where things need to be non combustible. I just have to add that doing what you are proposing is a massive undertaking. If you are up to it there is no reason not to but i assume you will need more height than you current fire box which means relocating the lintel which is a big job also most cavitys around a fireplace flue are filled with rubble which will need to be removed probably from the top then disassemble the flues and the smoke chamber and so on. If you are up for it go for it but a new insert and refacing the existing fireplace would be much cheaper and easier. I don't mean to be critical and if you have thought it through and are prepared for the amount of work have at it.

 

[allroadCole]

Follow the manufactures instructions for that they will tell you where combustibles can be and where things need to be non combustible. I just have to add that doing what you are proposing is a massive undertaking. If you are up to it there is no reason not to but i assume you will need more height than you current fire box which means relocating the lintel which is a big job also most cavitys around a fireplace flue are filled with rubble which will need to be removed probably from the top then disassemble the flues and the smoke chamber and so on. If you are up for it go for it but a new insert and refacing the existing fireplace would be much cheaper and easier. I don't mean to be critical and if you have thought it through and are prepared for the amount of work have at it.

Thanks, I know it needs to be non-combustible, I have read the owners manual. My question is can I use steel studs to build it.

I know how much work it will be. I used to remodel homes when I was in college.

The cavity is not filled with rubble, I built the current stone chimney, here is how the outside looked when I bought the house:

 

[bholler]

Ok then if you built it to begin with you know whats going on yes steel studs are non combustible. I just wanted to make sure many people think things like this will be easy with no idea what is involved Good luck to you and the design looks great

 

[NRGarrott]

How hard was it to extend the gable end out? Did you add trusses or just ladder it?

 

[allroadCole]

Ok then if you built it to begin with you know whats going on yes steel studs are non combustible. I just wanted to make sure many people think things like this will be easy with no idea what is involved Good luck to you and the design looks great

Thanks!

 

[allroadCole]

How hard was it to extend the gable end out? Did you add trusses or just ladder it?

Added trusses.

 

[NRGarrott]

Was the roof deck 1 by material or plywood. I am really considering adding an overhand on my gable sides. The roof is decked in 1x6, and I wasn't sure what approach to take.

 

[allroadCole]

Was the roof deck 1 by material or plywood. I am really considering adding an overhand on my gable sides. The roof is decked in 1x6, and I wasn't sure what approach to take.

You can use either, I used plywood.

 

[Abunker11]

I am considering finishing my zc gas fireplace surround with stone like you are planning. I'm wondering about the weight of different materials. The installer told me how he did his using a man made product that is almost like a hard foam, very light and easy to work with. I'd rather use real stone from a kit but I am concerned about weight. I think it would be less than 500 lbs. It's a small job 50 sq. ft. . Will I be need to add extra support below the floor? Any recommendation on the various stone products available now?

 

[allroadCole]

Hi, a contractor I used to work with told me that (possibly local?) code stipulated any use of real rock had to be engineered, like your trusses have to be engineered. Where if you used the lightweight fake stone you could just use it with out having the plans reviewed by an engineer. Plus the fake stone is cheaper and easier to work with.

Because of price and local availability I'm going with Elderado Stone.

 

[Abunker11]

Thank you for that info. Definitely want to avoid any more expense and hassle. I will check out Eldorado Stone. Looks like I can get it in town here.