Can anyone help me with the make/model of this stove?

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wlarrison

New Member
Aug 13, 2015
5
Yardley, PA
We just purchased this house, so i'm not sure how old this stove is (my apologies if its not older than 1993, but the home is from 1957, so I figured it would be).

Yesterday I got the latch stuck and broke the handle trying to get the stove open. It was made of some kind of polymer/plastic and threaded onto the arm/latch mechanism, as you can see in the photos.

I just want to replace the handle. I'm not sure if I can find a threaded handle somewhere online, or if I have to replace the entire arm. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

(sorry for the image size. i'm not sure how to shrink them down)

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Looks like a Quaker Stove from near Quakertown PA. Manual here as well; https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/quaker-stove-company/
I'd make my own, but you could use a spring handle for the size of threaded rod you have. Available in chrome or brass color. They thread on a rod with or without threads. Woodman's Parts Plus is down right now, or I'd attach a link.
 
Wow, thanks for the response.. looks like it is a quaker of some kind.

A spring handle will fit on that little threaded portion? it's only about 2 inches long.
 
Welcome to the forum!

Is that stove UL-listed? If not it needs to be installed with a 36" clearance to combustibles like drywall or studs. The bricks around it reduce that by 1/3 to 24" (https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/nfpa-wall-clearance-reductions/). Maybe the pic is deceiving but it looks like you don't have enough (unless the walls behind the bricks are all non-combustible).
 
Yeah, the larger spring for half inch rod only threads onto about 1 1/2" of shaft; or more if you keep turning it on. Lube the moving parts with silver anti-seize grease. Hinges too. (higher temp rating than most high temp grease) Perhaps the latch was adjusted too tight unless the handle was that brittle ? It only needs to pull the gasket snug, not extremely tight.

(Next to a clean out door, I assume it's in a basement with masonry wall behind it)
 
Grisu,

Thanks for the response; you're correct, I don't believe there is 24". During our home inspection we were told that this area wasn't up to code, though the code violation, we were told, was that there needed to be another 12 inches of brick on the floor, surrounding the stove. Good to know it's more than just that.

I think ultimately we plan to remove the stove; the house is a split level (3 floors) and we have another, newer stove on the main floor that we will use more regularly.

We did plan to use it this winter before getting rid of it, since it will be our first winter in this house (just to see how we like having it), but if this is a serious code violation that might void any claim in the event of fire damage to the home, i guess we won't be using it!
 
(Next to a clean out door, I assume it's in a basement with masonry wall behind it)

I am more worried about the left side with the drywall and the door which suggests there could be another room behind it. Never hurts to make sure an install is safe.
 
To the left is a door to the basement. Behind that drywall material is cinder block I believe. I'll check tonight. Would that be okay? or does the drywall/door frame cause an issue?
 
I think they use firebrick inside - no fireplace grate. You want to burn in an inch of ash on the bottom allowing coals to pile up, not elevating wood. The manual gives specs for the Buck, Doe and Fawn.
 
Grisu,

Thanks for the response; you're correct, I don't believe there is 24". During our home inspection we were told that this area wasn't up to code, though the code violation, we were told, was that there needed to be another 12 inches of brick on the floor, surrounding the stove. Good to know it's more than just that.

I think ultimately we plan to remove the stove; the house is a split level (3 floors) and we have another, newer stove on the main floor that we will use more regularly.

We did plan to use it this winter before getting rid of it, since it will be our first winter in this house (just to see how we like having it), but if this is a serious code violation that might void any claim in the event of fire damage to the home, i guess we won't be using it!

Good that you put safety first. You could get a certified sweep for an inspection but when you don't plan on using it much anyway I would just get rid off it. Since fall is coming up you may get a few hundred bucks for it. It looks like it is still in a good condition.

Modern stoves with built in heat shields can have side clearances down to 10" and rear clearance of 5" to 6". Maybe one of those would fit there without any major changes to the hearth.

What brand/model is your new stove? Do you have dry wood with a moisture content of less than 20% for it? I suggest sticking around and you will find out how to get the most out of your other stove. And who installed that one? I hope there are no problems with that install.
 
To the left is a door to the basement. Behind that drywall material is cinder block I believe. I'll check tonight. Would that be okay? or does the drywall/door frame cause an issue?

Clearance; sidewall to combustible 36".
 
Good that you put safety first. You could get a certified sweep for an inspection but when you don't plan on using it much anyway I would just get rid off it. Since fall is coming up you may get a few hundred bucks for it. It looks like it is still in a good condition.

Modern stoves with built in heat shields can have side clearances down to 10" and rear clearance of 5" to 6". Maybe one of those would fit there without any major changes to the hearth.

What brand/model is your new stove? Do you have dry wood with a moisture content of less than 20% for it? I suggest sticking around and you will find out how to get the most out of your other stove. And who installed that one? I hope there are no problems with that install.

Here's the other stove:

jBVxd05.jpg


We do have seasoned, covered wood for it, though I do plan to stick around and learn as much as I can.

I'll have to check the clearance on the new stove, looks like that heat shield is pretty close to the drywall.
 
A Quadrafire 3100 Millennium maybe? That would have a 13.5" rear clearance from the center of the flue with doube-wall pipe. Probably ~7" from the back to the wall looking at the schemes in the manual: http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/7033_277.pdf

Overall, looks like a nice install and a great home, too.
 
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