Can I cover the bricks with stone veneer and not burn my house down?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

RickBlaine

Burning Hunk
Jan 12, 2014
161
Chicago
People of Hearth!

Over the holidays many a friend, foe, canine, and feline have partaken in my groovy Englander 13 surrounded by 1957 red brick. Some suggested I go with a light-colored stone covering rather than paint over the red brick.

Can I add stone veneers and not burn the house down? The stove is very close to the brick. Do these stone veneers have similar fire/heat ratings?

Please let me know your thoughts on this. Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • Stove2.jpg
    Stove2.jpg
    212.8 KB · Views: 361
You can cover the brick with stone veneer. It would have no effect on the thermal qualities of the brick.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
Yes. You want to take care with your choice of mortar when it is that close so that it does not crack in the heat. There are thinset mortars with additives that will work well. Clean the brick with TSP and you may want to brush a layer of mortar bonding agent to the brick. You should not need to use durock or metal lathe as the brick looks like it has a rough surface. I put a 1" thick real stone veneer on my back wall and I really like the look of it.

You do need to check your clearances to combustibles and make sure you are still at code.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
You've got 5 cords of black locust? You are ready to rip! That is great firewood.
 
Thank you, Gents. Probably a project for late Spring, but want to get ready. I see some photos on this site and like the look of stone rather than my red brick. I just wanted to make sure the veneer can literally take the heat (so close to the stove). Appreciate the advice on the mortar mix.

It is funny- some people like the original late 1950s look, and some don't. As time goes on, I would prefer stone....

And yes, but it's down to 4.5 cords now :) Two 60 year old locust trees came down in my backyard in June of 2011. As life (and Hearth.com) teaches- when you get lemons make lemonade. Thanks to the advice on here, I prepared the wood in 2011 and bought the Englander stove this March- when the wood was ready.

And now I am spoiled with this radiant heat from wood. In the Spring, I may ask the city to drop off a couple of locusts trees (or their 18 inch rounds) so I can spend a weekend with buddies making splits. Or I may just run to Michigan/Indiana and buy splits for 1/5 the price they charge here, or maybe just run to the city lot with my chainsaw and cut 18 inchers off of the trees there.
 
I forgot to mention that you want to put a scratch coat of mortar on the bricks first and let it dry a day before putting the final coat with the stone veneer on it. That creates a smooth surface to apply the stone veneer. You could try one coat but I'm not sure how much experience you have with stone. Applying stone veneer is very easy once you get the trick of how hydraulic suction works. Smoosh the stone against the wall, hold it for a moment, then let go. It just hangs were you put it.

It might be best to search craigslist for someone who has some left over from a project. I found 3 lots that way that were very cheap. Have a good look at the stone. There are lots of fake ones made of cement and lots of people think they are real. Genuine stone veneer is very pricey but much more beautiful.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
I had ugly old 70's brick. We painted it and it was better, but I still wasn't satisified.
This is what the final product looks like.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    272 KB · Views: 281
That is a beautiful job, webby! Your photo is what I envision, thank you. Well, mostly. This city dweller does not hunt for meat, unless the hunt is for a coupon to save 25% from the meat counter at the local grocery store, lol. I tried hunting, but my buddies said I made too much noise and to not come back, lest I be the hunted one.

I like the substantial wood mantle- it looks like reclaimed lumber. Is that granite inside the firebox? You are giving me too many ideas now.

@Doug: Not much experience with stone work, but I will learn between now and project day. That is good advice on the fake stone vs. real stone, and for searching on Craigslist. Thank you.
 
This was my first attempt at stone veneer. Although I've been around a bit and was familiar with the process.
I had a local sawmill rough saw the lumber. The beam is 8"x12" and 11' long just to put it in perspective. The firebox is lined with soapstone. About 600 lbs of it!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
The beam is 8"x12" and 11' long just to put it in perspective. The firebox is lined with soapstone. About 600 lbs of it!

That is a serious piece of mantle! And soapstone!? Hmmmm, I have room for it....would be a lot nicer than the painted firebrick I now have.
 
By the way, Rick, I loved your work in Casablanca. I gotta tell you though, if it had been me I would have gotten on that plane with Ilsa, leave that Czechoslovak guy to his fate with the Nazis in Casablanca.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
Im really liking the install with metal block off plate, when you stone it is gonna look 110%!!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
@simon: ha ha, thank you, kind sir! I am shocked, SHOCKED, that I did not get on the plane.

@kenny: Thank you for noticing the block-off plate. Being a newbie, I wanted something I could disassemble quickly to check as often as I needed during my first few seasons of burning wood. The block-off plate utilizes two wing nuts to hold it all together- unscrew those and the block-off plate's 3 sections come apart in about 3 minutes.

Instead of mounting the block-off plate's sheet metal directly to the firebox walls, I used Tapcon masonry screws to secure 1.5 inch wide sheet metal connectors all the way around the top of the firebox, then just slid the block-off plate sheets into them.

I am already searching Craigslist now....This will radically change the look of the house! Thank you all!
 
People of Hearth!

Over the holidays many a friend, foe, canine, and feline have partaken in my groovy Englander 13 surrounded by 1957 red brick. Some suggested I go with a light-colored stone covering rather than paint over the red brick.

Can I add stone veneers and not burn the house down? The stove is very close to the brick. Do these stone veneers have similar fire/heat ratings?

Please let me know your thoughts on this. Thank you.

My stone veneer is made out of portland cement...no worries about the heat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RickBlaine
Status
Not open for further replies.