Can someone help me with proper piping?

[Drew1024]

Hey guys:

I had an earlier post regarding which method of pipe installing for my 24x20 camp in NY. It was under the title "stove pipe question." Anyway, decided to go straight up through the ceiling/floor of loft and again up through the roof. All straight up for better draft. Can someone kind of give me an idea what sort of piping I will need for my installation? I would like to use single wall on the first floor if possible. Any help would be appreciated and was wondering if I can get a kit somewhere.

 

[cmonSTART]

Simpson does make kits for such an purpose. It should contain the support box, roof flashing, necessary brackets etc.

You will need the single wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling, and then class A chimney from there up (Simpson Dura-Tech, Dura-Plus etc.)

If you can't find a complete kit you will need to order the components separately. You can probably find a copy of an installation manual for Simpson chimney on the internet and it will help shed a lot of light on what it's going to take.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

you will need Ul-103HT rated class A flue pipe from the first floor ceiling to the chimney cap above the roof.
UL 103HT is insulated multiwall pipe purpose built for the installation you are describing. fair warning , you may see a bit of "sticker shock" when you price it, it aint cheap, but its certainly less expensive than putting up a traditional masonary chimney

here are a couple links to look at www.duravent.com which is a manufacturer site you can call them as well at 800-835-4429 they have a great customer support shop. tell em mike from englander sent ya!

also if you want to look at options as far as different brands and price ranges several in here have used this site www.ventingpipe.com

hope this helps ya!

 

[fossil]

Here's an article to sort of get you oriented in the world you're about to enter:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove

Here's a representative guide from one of the respected manufacturers of the stuff you're gonna need to git 'er done:

http://www.duravent.com/?page=1a1.php

 

[fossil]

Sure, you can use single wall stovepipe from the stove flue collar up to the ceiling supprt box, where you must transition to Class A chimney. Rick

ETA: You want the entire system to come from the same manufacturer. (This is ideally...in reality, the single-wall stovepipe doesn't absolutely have to come from the same folks who made the Class A...but from the ceiling support box on up to daylight, stick with one company)

 

[BrotherBart]

Don't know the answer, but does he need a chase around that pipe in the loft? And for clarification, are we talking Class A in the loft?

 

[fossil]

Don't know the answer, but does he need a chase around that pipe in the loft? And for clarification, are we talking Class A in the loft?

I'm neither a professional nor an expert witness, but from everything I've learned (or think I've learned) here & elsewhere over the last few years, I believe the answer to be yes on both counts. Rick

 

[Pagey]

Can't say without pics of course, but this sounds a lot like my uncle's cabin. In his cabin, there's a second floor that extends about 2/3 of the way across loft area. It's got a twin bed and a small dresser up there for sleeping and storage. It may be that this cabin is similar and that the flue will pass through the "living space" area of the loft. In that case, I would think it would be treated like any other installation passing through a living space: UL 103 HT Class A, 2" minimum CTC, and enclosed in a chase, which seems to be where we're headed/the general consensus.

 

[begreen]

Don't know the answer, but does he need a chase around that pipe in the loft? And for clarification, are we talking Class A in the loft?

Yes, I think so, but the local inspector may allow a variance from the traditional. A friend was allowed by the inspector to surround his class A with a nice stainless expanded metal screen that allowed the heat to be recovered, but kept the class A safe from being touched or touching anything within 3" of the pipe. Worth asking about at least.

 

[Drew1024]

Guys. This is true. My piping will be going through the living space in the loft and then finally through the roof. So are you saying once i get to the first floor ceiling/loft floor, I need to transition to a class A chimney even though still inside the loft space?

 

[fossil]

My understanding, and the link to the Simpson website I posted previously seems to bear it out, is that stovepipe is used to the first penetration of the structure (whether that be a ceiling or the roof or a wall), and from that point on, after an appropriate transition is made, everything to daylight is Class A chimney. Rick

http://www.duravent.com/?page=1a1.php

Can't imagine it makes much difference as far as the Class A goes whether the space above the first penetration is attic or normally occupied. If it's normally (or occasionally) occupied, then I think a chase may be required. These are questions that need to be addressed to the local Authority Having Jurisdiction.

 

[begreen]

Guys. This is true. My piping will be going through the living space in the loft and then finally through the roof. So are you saying once i get to the first floor ceiling/loft floor, I need to transition to a class A chimney even though still inside the loft space?

Yes, the connector can only be used up to the floor penetration.

Can you post a picture? Something might be getting lost in translation here.

 

[fossil]

It's just like running the pipe through an occupied second floor...in fact, that's exactly what it is. Then, since the ceiling up there's cathedral, it goes to a support box and out through the roof. No attic. Rick

 

[Drew1024]

The picture that fossil sent is it to a tee. Identical to my installation. And it looks as though the actual class a chimney begins in the loft area with a chase necessary. Correct?

 

[fossil]

The actual transition from stovepipe (connector pipe) to Class A chimney pipe happens in the ceiling support box installed in your loft floor/first floor ceiling. I can't say for sure that you need to enclose the Class A through the loft with a chase, but I believe that you do. Check with the local authority. Rick

 

[Pagey]

Rick is exactly right. Though it's hard to tell from the pic, the actual transition from stove/connector pipe to Class A takes place inside the ceiling support box. That box will be secure to a rafter/second floor joist and will provide the required 2" clearance to combustibles (CTC) for the Class A. The support box will sit down several inches into the living space of the first floor. Your first run of Class A will have a special adapter that locks onto the bottom of it. Then you'll sit the Class A with the adapter down into the support box, and the adapter will mate to the stove/connector pipe. Here's a pic of my support box penetrating the ceiling of my first floor.

 

[Pagey]

I almost hesitate to post this pic, but I am going to for illustrative purposes. Let me be clear about 2 things though, so I don't get jumped on again: 1.) the Class A you see is a minimum of 6" from both walls in that pic, though difficult to tell and 2.) that Class A is now enclosed in a sheetrock chase with at least a 2" CTC between the pipe and the chase - I simply have never taken the time to upload a pic of the chase. That's the corner of my oldest step daughter's room, and if she were not sleeping I'd have a pic up for you. Again, this is a pic before the project was finished and it just to show you what the Class A in the living space transition looks like BEFORE it's enclosed.

 

[tiber]

My township broke my balls over the chase (and a lot of other things) so I would strongly suggest if you're looking for code inspection for insurance that you chase it into the roof penetration.

 

[Pagey]

:roll: After shot: it is boxed in. Ignore the polka dots. Who can read the minds of young girls? No sense painting the chase, she's wanting a different color scheme now.

 

[begreen]

LOL :lol: Looks like someone was going through a late 60's phase.

 

[Pagey]

LOL :lol: Looks like someone was going through a late 60's phase.

Dude, you have no idea. Both the girls (13 and 9, now) want their rooms changed every 6-12 months. The room you see above is for the 13 y/o. She now wants black walls with neon trim all around the room. We just started painting the 9 y/o's some wild purple color. I give up.

 

[firefighterjake]

LOL :lol: Looks like someone was going through a late 60's phase.

Dude, you have no idea. Both the girls (13 and 9, now) want their rooms changed every 6-12 months. The room you see above is for the 13 y/o. She now wants black walls with neon trim all around the room. We just started painting the 9 y/o's some wild purple color. I give up.

HehHeh . . . the pic and your comments Pagey gave me a good laugh . . . I feel for you . . . I really do.

But don't worry . . . in a few years your girls will no longer care about the color of their rooms . . . and then you'll really have to worry since they'll be more interested in boys!