can this be insulated

[kevinmerchant]

Ive got an addition with a basically flat roof. Currently doing a lighting project with can lighting. upon opening the ceiling I discovered there is virtually no insulation. Is there a way to insulate this. I was told by home depot there blow-in machines are not designed for this and I not to let the insulation touch the plywood on roof. Any suggestions

 

[szmaine]

Ive got an addition with a basically flat roof. Currently doing a lighting project with can lighting. upon opening the ceiling I discovered there is virtually no insulation. Is there a way to insulate this. I was told by home depot there blow-in machines are not designed for this and I not to let the insulation touch the plywood on roof. Any suggestions

How much space is there? Are you prepared to rip the ceiling down?

If ripping out the ceiling is a option and space is small you could use isocyanurate boards (expensive but high R value). Or just install fiberglass batts with foam air channels.

But sound like you don't want to do this...
Blown in? There is debate as to whether or not condensation will occur if there is not an air space between insulation and sheathing. Controlling indoor humidity and sealing air penetrations go a long way towards prevention of consation - if you have no choice (cannot rip out the ceiling)- some people do dense pack cellulose in such a situation, seal all the air penetration and, perhaps, paint the ceiling with vapor barrier paint (don't know how effective it is but maybe everything helps).

See this very good article:
http://www.applegateinsulation.com/CEDocuments/Downloads_GetFile.aspx?id=249406&fd=0

I have this book, I refer to it often for the many tricky situations at my place - it has extensive, detailed info on dense packing:
http://www.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Tauntons-Build-Like/dp/1561585548/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

 

[billb3]

Is it a rubber roof with insulation between the plywood and rubber ?

 

[kevinmerchant]

There is between 6-7inch space from plywood to plaster. No insulation between rubber roofing and plywood. The thing I dont understand is there is no where for are to flow. On reg. pitched roof there are sofit and ridge vent for air to flow. But with this type of roof there is no openings to the airspace between plywood and sheetrock. Currently there is about 1 inch of insulation with some areas (where I have cut openings for can lights) with nothing but the paper facing and backing with the insulation missing?

 

[LLigetfa]

I would rip down the plaster and do a spray-in-place foam job.

 

[smokinj]

if its rubber I would add the kool seal to it for insulation it takes quite a bit but will be the most cost effective way

 

[szmaine]

I would rip down the plaster and do a spray-in-place foam job.

Yes, if you could afford, it this would give you maximum R-value and air sealing.

 

[smokinj]

I would rip down the plaster and do a spray-in-place foam job.

Yes, if you could afford, it this would give you maximum R-value and air sealing.

yep it sure would at a huge cost you could recoup that money in 20 years or so

 

[szmaine]

if its rubber I would add the kool seal to it for insulation it takes quite a bit but will be the most cost effective way

What is Kool seal?

 

[smokinj]

if its rubber I would add the kool seal to it for insulation it takes quite a bit but will be the most cost effective way

What is Kool seal?

I have the same thing going on its 24x24 I have this built up to 1 in. and a half.

 

[smokinj]

if its rubber I would add the kool seal to it for insulation it takes quite a bit but will be the most cost effective way

What is Kool seal?

I have the same thing going on its 24x24 I have this built up to 1 in. and a half. http://www.koolseal.com/(its like a foam can cooler material) I think it cost me around 500.00 bucks but much cheaper than tearing out the dry wall and that foam is big money i used the foam in my craw space

 

[szmaine]

if its rubber I would add the kool seal to it for insulation it takes quite a bit but will be the most cost effective way

What is Kool seal?

I have the same thing going on its 24x24 I have this built up to 1 in. and a half. http://www.koolseal.com/(its like a foam can cooler material) I think it cost me around 500.00 bucks but much cheaper than tearing out the dry wall and that foam is big money i used the foam in my craw space

All I see on the link is reflective roof coating - am I missing something?

Guess I'm lucky - guy nearby sells salvaged and overstock foam board. Sells the salvaged blueboard by the cord. :lol:
Stuff I bought had obviously been buried once judging from the dirt, bought 1cd, 2.5"-$150.

 

[smokinj]

if its rubber I would add the kool seal to it for insulation it takes quite a bit but will be the most cost effective way

What is Kool seal?

I have the same thing going on its 24x24 I have this built up to 1 in. and a half. http://www.koolseal.com/(its like a foam can cooler material) I think it cost me around 500.00 bucks but much cheaper than tearing out the dry wall and that foam is big money i used the foam in my craw space

All I see on the link is reflective roof coating - am I missing something?

Guess I'm lucky - guy nearby sells salvaged and overstock foam board. Sells the salvaged blueboard by the cord. :lol:
Stuff I bought had obviously been buried once judging from the dirt, bought 1cd, 2.5"-$150.

yes there is a


Energy Saving up to 35%
Reflects 90%+ of the sun's rays
Designed to be durable in any climate
Higher solids for better coverage
Forms a thick rubber-like blanket of protection
Expands and contracts - clings to your roof in all temperatures
Protects against moisture
Cured elastomeric film is mildew and algae resistant
Helps to absorb sound
Environmentally compliant
Soap and water cleanup - while wet

 

[szmaine]

yes there is a


Energy Saving up to 35%
Reflects 90%+ of the sun's rays
Designed to be durable in any climate
Higher solids for better coverage
Forms a thick rubber-like blanket of protection
Expands and contracts - clings to your roof in all temperatures
Protects against moisture
Cured elastomeric film is mildew and algae resistant
Helps to absorb sound
Environmentally compliant
Soap and water cleanup - while wet

[/quote]

Is a what?
That looks like for savings on cooling costs, reflecting sun rays and all...though burnit doesn't say where from - I assumed he/she want to insulate to retain heat.

 

[smokinj]

yes there is a


Energy Saving up to 35%
Reflects 90%+ of the sun's rays
Designed to be durable in any climate
Higher solids for better coverage
Forms a thick rubber-like blanket of protection
Expands and contracts - clings to your roof in all temperatures
Protects against moisture
Cured elastomeric film is mildew and algae resistant
Helps to absorb sound
Environmentally compliant
Soap and water cleanup - while wet

Is a what?
That looks like for savings on cooling costs, reflecting sun rays and all...though burnit doesn't say where from - I assumed he/she want to insulate to retain heat.[/quote]


It made a deference on my heating as well it is just like rolling a can cooler out over the top of the rubber I guess if you really want to heat things up go with the black and they even have grey! just a more cost effective way if you want it bullet prof go with the foam now your talking around 5000.00 bucks after tearing out the ceilings and foaming it and putting it all back together...just my 2 cents.Foam cost on a dyi prodject is around 500 per 100 board ft.

 

[szmaine]

It made a deference on my heating as well it is just like rolling a can cooler out over the top of the rubber I guess if you really want to heat things up go with the black and they even have grey! just a more cost effective way if you want it bullet prof go with the foam now your talking around 5000.00 bucks after tearing out the ceilings and foaming it and putting it all back together...just my 2 cents.Foam cost on a dyi prodject is around 500 per 100 board ft.

I guess if it reflects the suns rays no reason why it can't be reflecting heat back into the house too-
Makes sense, we used Tuff-R isocyanurate foam board in two rooms upstairs (sloped ceiling only 6" space to use)- it is foil faced on both sides
and the room is no longer broiling in the summer as well as much warmer in winter.