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Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by akthor, Sep 30, 2012.
Ok jumped the snap disc and the same results.
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Yeah I have looked at the manual again and again. I guess to really troubleshoot i have to light a fire and then track the lights. Same with jumping the vacuum and snap disc since with no fire the proof of fire switch will shut it all down anyways.
So start a fire. Then jump the vacuum if no luck then jump the snap disc then So if it was the vacuum pressure switch or the snap disc when I jump them if it doesn't work still it's the control board or auger motor?
When the fire is going the stove does everything it should except feed the pellets so I think the other switches and relays are working right.
No idea what side it fell on. Not bent or any dents or anything.
Do you have a patch cord? Can you wire the auger?
I know it was asked above, but sometimes things are forgotten. This will rule out a faulty auger motor.
The light sequence sounds like the board is acting as it should.
Is the stove in Manual? Auto? Should be in manual, unless you have it connected to a T-stat.
Follow all the wires from the board. There are 2 more snap discs, one is probably behind the insulation on the back of the stove (inside the back panels/making contact with the back wall of firebox). The other looks to on or near exhaust.
I will try and get over to my buddies house or get him on here.
One thing you can check is sometimes the wires pull slightly out of the white molex connector on the control board or the molex itself isn't fully connected. With power off/unplugged push all the wires back towards the connector. Make sure connector is tight.
Next look at the auger motor itself. Use a lamp cord and wire it to the motor(get the proper connectors to crimp on the lamp cord end). If the auger doesn't turn its often the wires that go to the pancake motor break(leads going to the coil). Visualy inspect the wires for breaks(unplugged please).
The other switches aren't ones you can reset and they seem to be working as they should.
Stove is in manual.
I will check the molex connectors.
Patch cord? Is that just a lamp cord? I have lamp cord so do I hook it to the motor and plug it in and see if the motor turns?
Be certain that the connections to that auger motor from the stove are disconnected before using that patch cord.
Hopefully this will be readable.
This is the troubleshooting information for your stove and what you have for a condition.
Yes on the patch cord just be certain the wiring in the stove going to the auger motor is disconnected before attaching the patch cord.
Sorry for the double posts the interweb is acting up today.
At work now won't be able to trouble shoot more until Friday.
The gang told me to stop by, I burn a Baby myself, among other things. That said, I can't think of one thing that has not been mentioned already, darn fine job they do here. IMHO you'll need to figure out if the auger is working by hot wiring it, if not you have your problem. If so, you need to work backwards from there I guess. These stoves are pretty simple with realitively lots of space to work, heck with both doors open you can almost see daylight. I'll take a look at mine and see if I can come up with anything.
OOOOkay well that didn't go as I think it was supposed to. Unplugged the motor and hooked up the lamp cord made sure my wires were right and nothing touching what it shouldn't ect.plugged it in and ZAPPPPPPP! Sparks flew and a little puff of smoke came out of the motor. I uplugged it fast. It also blew the breaker. What now?
If everything was hooked up properly to the motor, it looks like the motor is internally shorted, which in turn probably took out the driver on your control board. You probably didn't see any sparks or smoke at the time because the triac acted as a fuse and limited the current when it blew. Or, it burned a trace or two off the circuit board. A visual inspection of the board would show burned traces.
I visually inspected the board ( both sides ) no signs of any burned traces.
So do I need a new motor? Can this be fixed? There is an electric motor place up in Bangor.
I'm assuming that the motor runs on house voltage, as most do. That is why you can use what we used to call a "cheater cord" plugged into an outlet to test it.
From what I've read and interpreted, you need a new motor, but I'd like to see what others have to say. Remote troubleshooting is sort of "iffy". Assuming you get a new motor installed, it may run all the time if the triac is shorted. If the motor is indeed shorted internally, it's likely that something else got damaged, hopefully just a fuse, but maybe the triac driving the motor. They are cheap and easy to change if you have a bit of soldering experience on circuit boards. Let's see what others have to say.
In answer to your question: Sorry to say, I doubt the motor can be repaired economically.
Can you remove the auger motor and read the information on the makers plate (label) and tell us what it says the auger motors are fairly standard and can be purchased on line once you know exactly what you are looking for.
You have to match up the voltage, rpms, current draw, and physical mount requirements to select a replacement.
Ummm I hope so, power doesn't go right from the wall into the board or motor it goes into like a power block like my xbox or laptop then out.
I will work on getting it out later. Frustrated and drinking heavily now.
It appears as if you have the DC model of Baby Countryside.
Is there a little odd looking plug in port on the back of the stove? On the lower right hand side?
No no odd looking plug in or port
What color were the wires going to the auger motor?
Yellow and yellow with a black stripe.
You have the DC version of the Magnum the motors for that unit are not AC line voltage.
Now let me look at that schematic and see what else is different between that model and the AC one.
Are there two fuses inside the stove shell near the transformer?
Please snap some pictures of the insides starting where the power line enters the stove and goes to that little xbox like brick and out to the control board.
What year is this unit and is it a used unit?