Can't get the stove hot enough

[woodsie8]

Not sure what I am doing wrong (newbie), but I load the stove, get it burning and it takes forever for the fan to kick on and give us heat. Good flames but hardly ever see the secondary flame, the glass doesn't get clean by burning, and wondering if I am getting it hot enough to burn creosote out of the liner, ever.

 

[RedRanger]

Just so you know that my blower doesn`t kick in till the temp reaches 475 or 500 as taken on the top of the insert. Secondaries usually kick in shortly after that. Got to get it hot, hot , hot.

 

[woodsie8]

How do I get it hotter? It is full of wood. Must be something I am doing with the draft?

 

[begreen]

What size are the splits? Maybe try smaller ones? How well seasoned is the wood? Are the splits sizzling and foaming on the ends?

 

[N/A N/A]

Remember you got a large hunk of steel sitting there. It takes more than a few BTUs to get it up to temp. You should be burning smaller stuff fast and hot at least close to an hour before adding larger splits. That not only gets your chimney up to temp for a good draw but also builds a good coal bed.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Remember too that if you keep the draft open, the heat goes up the chimney. After you get the fire going you have to start closing that draft; then your stove should start heating up.

 

[webbie]

Also, the draft of a chimney increases with colder and clearer (and less humid) weather. Many stoves don't get really warm until it gets cold......

 

[SlyFerret]

It sounds like fresh cut wood to me.

I had some Oak last year that wasn't seasoned and I had the same problem. There wasn't anything I could do to get the stove to take off. Getting my hands on some good dry wood fixed the problem.

-SF

 

[N/A N/A]

It sounds like fresh cut wood to me.

I had some Oak last year that wasn't seasoned and I had the same problem. There wasn't anything I could do to get the stove to take off. Getting my hands on some good dry wood fixed the problem.

-SF

I dont think thats always the case. My old englander 12, I was burning good dry wood in it. I knew it was good and seasoned for a fact. I could put ten pounds of black powder in that stove and light it, and all it would do is smolder.

 

[woodsie8]

thanks for the help. I think I have been loading too much wood, too big of splits and not letting it get hot enough. I will try the smaller splits, smaller fires.
But with those hotter smaller fires, what do I do with the draft?

 

[N/A N/A]

thanks for the help. I think I have been loading too much wood, too big of splits and not letting it get hot enough. I will try the smaller splits, smaller fires.
But with those hotter smaller fires, what do I do with the draft?

Well, you got to learn how to operate your particular stove/set up. I personally leave the air all the way open until up to temp. I sometimes even crack the ash pan door to give it an extra boost. But you must keep an eye on it while doing this cause you can still over fire your stove. You got to see what works for you. If it starts to get to hot of course you got to back off the air some. I think what you said is a likely case of your issue. But others are for sure correct on seasoned dry wood is a must.

 

[begreen]

In these mild temps, burn shorter hot fires and leave the air control open enough to keep flames going over the fire. Fall/spring (shoulder) season burning is very different from mid-winter burning. You might want to check out this video for an example of how the stove will burn once it gets colder (below 45 deg.) outside.

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1

 

[ControlFreak]

Not sure what I am doing wrong (newbie), but I load the stove, get it burning and it takes forever for the fan to kick on and give us heat. Good flames but hardly ever see the secondary flame, the glass doesn't get clean by burning, and wondering if I am getting it hot enough to burn creosote out of the liner, ever.

Woodsie --
Try this for an experiment: Get some scrap 2x4's or other dry scrap lumber. Fill your firebox with that and light it up with some kindling. I suspect that you'll think you have a new stove. If the scrap lumber burns OK, then your wood moisture content is stifling the fire.

Here's another experiment to try after you've done your 2x4 experiment: Burn some of the 2x4's to get the stove moderately warm. With a bed of red coals covering the floor of your stove, load up the firebox with your firewood. As you load the wood, try to place the sharp corners of the wood down so you don't have much flat surface smothering the coals. Now close the door, and CLOSE the draft control. You're trying to keep the fire from burning. Now let it sit for about an hour while you "kiln-dry" your wood. After an hour, open up the draft and crack the door open to spray some fresh air on the coals. You should be able to get a flame fairly easily. Now see if you get a little more heat out of your "dried" wood.

When I first bought my stove, I had the same problem and complained to the store that the stoves had a problem. He challenged me with the 2x4 experiment.

Dan

 

[begreen]

Here's another experiment to try after you've done your 2x4 experiment: Burn some of the 2x4's to get the stove moderately warm. With a bed of red coals covering the floor of your stove, load up the firebox with your firewood. As you load the wood, try to place the sharp corners of the wood down so you don't have much flat surface smothering the coals. Now close the door, and CLOSE the draft control.

Dan

Dan, I have to disagree. Putting fresh wood on a hot coal bed and then closing the air control down is not a good idea. It can lead to a puffback (a small explosion) in the stove once the accumulating wood gas ignites. This is very likely to happen if a bunch of fresh air is suddenly introduced. It's much better to wait until the fresh wood is burning fully before gradually reducing the air supply.

 

[woodzilla]

I experienced same issue my first season. Until I came across a tip here. Using ash, coals or shim type splits, make 2 rows from front to back of stove. Rows should be spaced to leave a gap between them. This elevates your splits so the flame can really eat. Next put two pieces across spaced loosely across those humps you created. The third piece goes on top of the first two on an angle. Same wood for me went from 300-350 to 550-600.

 

[mtarbert]

That is a good video. I like the idea of tying the paper in knots. That is a chore I can enjoy with our 8 year old Now to fidgure a way to tie a bolen using newspaper.
Mike

 

[Joey Jones]

Remember you got a large hunk of steel sitting there. It takes more than a few BTUs to get it up to temp. You should be burning smaller stuff fast and hot at least close to an hour before adding larger splits. That not only gets your chimney up to temp for a good draw but also builds a good coal bed.

I think you just answered my question....I did post a new thread about getting over the learning curve with my new Englander13NC....I am also having a problem keeping temperatures up.

 

[North of 60]

Here's another experiment to try after you've done your 2x4 experiment: Burn some of the 2x4's to get the stove moderately warm. With a bed of red coals covering the floor of your stove, load up the firebox with your firewood. As you load the wood, try to place the sharp corners of the wood down so you don't have much flat surface smothering the coals. Now close the door, and CLOSE the draft control.

Dan

Dan, I have to disagree. Putting fresh wood on a hot coal bed and then closing the air control down is not a good idea. It can lead to a puffback (a small explosion) in the stove once the accumulating wood gas ignites. This is very likely to happen if a bunch of fresh air is suddenly introduced. It's much better to wait until the fresh wood is burning fully before gradually reducing the air supply.

100% Agree with your Disagree. If you dont prove ignition by flames and you shut the primary air down, well thats down right scary. Kinda like waiting to push the igniter in the BBQ well after the gas has been turned on.

 

[woodsie8]

oh my gosh, split some smaller pieces, did exactly what you all have said, and I have a great fire going with heat coming out. Thanks so much I still plan on doing the 2x4 experiment
Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Joey Jones]

Be Green is correct in his advice to keep the stove maxed out after adding some green or not quite seasoned wood...until all steam is gone and the temp of the stove or stove gas starts to rise. Although I disagree with his PuffBack theory ...even though I have seen such activity in a windstorm or other curious weather...my opinion is do not fear a puffback , it is normal wood stove burning stuff and should be just considered a facet of burning wood in the real world.

 

[myzamboni]

Be Green is correct in his advice to keep the stove maxed out after adding some green or not quite seasoned wood...until all steam is gone and the temp of the stove or stove gas starts to rise. Although I disagree with his PuffBack theory ...even though I have seen such activity in a windstorm or other curious weather...my opinion is do not fear a puffback , it is normal wood stove burning stuff and should be just considered a facet of burning wood in the real world.

BeGreens' reference to puffback is not a little pushback of smoke into the room. He is referring to, due to low air/draft, the accumulation of the wood gassifying and concentrating in the stove until it reaches a point where all that collected gas combusts in a violent manner (sort of sounds like a charge went off in your stove).

 

[Jags]

Be Green is correct in his advice to keep the stove maxed out after adding some green or not quite seasoned wood...until all steam is gone and the temp of the stove or stove gas starts to rise. Although I disagree with his PuffBack theory ...even though I have seen such activity in a windstorm or other curious weather...my opinion is do not fear a puffback , it is normal wood stove burning stuff and should be just considered a facet of burning wood in the real world.

BeGreens' reference to puffback is not a little pushback of smoke into the room. He is referring to, due to low air/draft, the accumulation of the wood gassifying and concentrating in the stove until it reaches a point where all that collected gas combusts in a violent manner (sort of sounds like a charge went off in your stove).

Of which, BY MISTAKE, I have done. Trust me, it will scare the CRAP out of you and is dangerous.

Fear puffback.

(backdraft is another common reference.)

Story goes: cold stove, emptied ash drawer. Drawer did not get securely latched. Start fire as normal, after a few minutes I noticed that the fire was in a rage. Deduct that ash drawer was still cracked open. Secured ash drawer and shut air controls. That brought the raging fire to a crawl in short order. Went to open door to add some medium size splits and "kerwhoooomp". All those volatile gasses caught a whoosh of oxygen and ignited.

It would be on the order of dumping a cup of gasoline down your chimney into a warm (but not lit) stove, waiting for the gasoline to vaporize, then dropping a match down the stack.

Yeah, FEAR BACKDRAFT.

 

[Joey Jones]

Be Green is correct in his advice to keep the stove maxed out after adding some green or not quite seasoned wood...until all steam is gone and the temp of the stove or stove gas starts to rise. Although I disagree with his PuffBack theory ...even though I have seen such activity in a windstorm or other curious weather...my opinion is do not fear a puffback , it is normal wood stove burning stuff and should be just considered a facet of burning wood in the real world.

BeGreens' reference to puffback is not a little pushback of smoke into the room. He is referring to, due to low air/draft, the accumulation of the wood gassifying and concentrating in the stove until it reaches a point where all that collected gas combusts in a violent manner (sort of sounds like a charge went off in your stove).

Never considered your idea as a quoient to a bad burn. I have had the little puffs at large and have laughed then off as mysterious air currents....or other such phenonmenom

 

[Joey Jones]

I am always good to learn of new possibilities and other extraneous influence on the stove /air continum... perhaps I have never burned in the realm of Be Green which his data seems to inform us of disasterous results of imperfect burning and dangerous consequences.... Please Take Note All Wood Burners ....A Master has Spoken....(not me , but be green)

 

[billb3]

I've never opened a wood stove door without opening the draft at least part way.
I've always liked a box partly full of old wood and constntly add a few splits every now and then.
Trying to maintain a constant output.

Many claim that's NOT the way to run a newer type stove. Old habits die hard, but I try.
Maybe I just like fire-tending too much.