I had a Large Flush Wood Hybrid-Fyre™ by Travis installed last year. I continued to have issues with Carbon Monoxide detection when running a slow burn overnight. The installer insists there are no issues with the seals, but that's not possible. The only time the CO detector will not go off overnight on a slow burn is if the flue remains slightly open. However, in theory, the bypass should be able to remain closed. Also, at one point, I had not lit the insert in a week when it was very cold out. I had started a small hot fire with the blue gel, smart start squares, small dry kindling and shredded paper. Well, it started to smoke like crazy when i added the paper. I closed the door, but miraculously, smoke entered the room from the bottom of the unit. Again, the installer said during a cold start like that, smoke will find it's way through any crevice and I shouldn't have added the paper (note that the manual says to use newspaper during cold start). Now, I don't know much about wood inserts yet, but I would think that if the door is closed and the unit is installed correctly, I should not have any carbon monoxide, or smoke, coming into the house. Can anyone tell me what they think is causing the issue? I hope to get it fixed before I use it again this year. I'm having a baby and I need to ensure we are 100% safe. I don't know where else to turn since the approved dealer/installer insists there are no issues with the seal.
Carbon Monoxide detection during slow overnight burn
- Thread starter zigg114a
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Each stove and install is unique in some way or fashion. I wouldn't be hung up with the idea that you "should" be able to shut the stove down all the way. Some stoves simply need that extra little bit to keep them running proper. Keep in mind - a 15ft stack is a way different beast than a 25ft stack (as an example).
At first knee jerk reaction, this sounds like operational error. Smoldering an overnight fire sounds like one issue and backdraft during start up sounds like yet another issue. Both have cures.
At first knee jerk reaction, this sounds like operational error. Smoldering an overnight fire sounds like one issue and backdraft during start up sounds like yet another issue. Both have cures.
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
Who told you that or where did you read that.
When you say bypass are you referring to a damper in the flue?
If so I doubt you should have it closed even though there probably is a hole in the center of it.
The smoke was entering the room from the air intakes most likely.
Was the "bypass" open? It should have been.
Some pics may help us.
I concur with Jags that operator error seem to be a factor.
Good that you came here. There are people here that know how to help you.
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Keep working with your installer, because most likely there is nothing wrong with the install. These are very complicated units! And they are new to the market, they have had a few bugs to work out.
You should be able to shut the bypass all the way. But if the cat isn't active enough it will stall out and cause a smoke smell. This smell is not too uncommon in some stoves if the cat is struggling. Is it clogged with ash? This is a very common problem with this unit. How tall is your chimney? I'm assuming it has a Stainless liner that goes all the way to the top. It should also be insulated, this will help with your draft.
If you don't have a good draft established when you light the fire it will smoke out. Smoke will find a way out in that situation no matter what! Its a good heater and it requires wood that has been split and stacked in the sun for at least a full year. It will not tolerate unseasoned wood, how long has your wood been stacked? Wood quality could be the issue?
You should be able to shut the bypass all the way. But if the cat isn't active enough it will stall out and cause a smoke smell. This smell is not too uncommon in some stoves if the cat is struggling. Is it clogged with ash? This is a very common problem with this unit. How tall is your chimney? I'm assuming it has a Stainless liner that goes all the way to the top. It should also be insulated, this will help with your draft.
If you don't have a good draft established when you light the fire it will smoke out. Smoke will find a way out in that situation no matter what! Its a good heater and it requires wood that has been split and stacked in the sun for at least a full year. It will not tolerate unseasoned wood, how long has your wood been stacked? Wood quality could be the issue?
I'm wondering if this may be a negative pressure situation and the chimney is downdrafting? On which floor is the fireplace located? How tall is the chimney and is it exterior?
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
velvetfoot
Minister of Fire
When the insert gets cold, before lighting a fire you should put your hand in the stove near the flue exit and see if you feel cold air. If you do, maybe crack open a nearby window. I get the air flowing in the chimney with just some newspaper (never heard of blue gel), and then I use one of the Rutland starter squares (no kindling). I don't have a cat stove, never mind a hybrid, so I can't imagine why you'd want to close a flue damper. Interesting.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Sounds exactly like the troubles I was having, first year with my F12 on a short chimney, eh begreen? Trouble was occasional draft reversal when stove was cold, and back-puffing on very slow burns. Two problems, two solutions.
1. Draft reversal: this is not the fault of the installer, if anything it's the fault of your architect. In any case, you gotta warm the flue and get draft going the right way, before you just throw in newspaper and make smoke. Try a hair dryer. Mine only does this a few times per year, after a long shut-down.
2. Back-puffing: due to burning too slow, by shutting the air supply too tight for the draft you have, and almost always aggravated by poorly seasoned wood. There is a LOT written on this forum about this problem, much of it aimed at my former troubles.
1. Draft reversal: this is not the fault of the installer, if anything it's the fault of your architect. In any case, you gotta warm the flue and get draft going the right way, before you just throw in newspaper and make smoke. Try a hair dryer. Mine only does this a few times per year, after a long shut-down.
2. Back-puffing: due to burning too slow, by shutting the air supply too tight for the draft you have, and almost always aggravated by poorly seasoned wood. There is a LOT written on this forum about this problem, much of it aimed at my former troubles.
Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
Welcome to the forums!
I have to agree with others...you may have a negative pressure in the flue which is causing the emissions to creep out of the stove rather than go up when you smolder the fire/shut down the damper and the draft gets reduced.
The situation you lived regarding the smoking of the room happens to me now and again. My stove primary air comes from the top down towards the front glass. In a negative pressure situation I can feel the cold air coming down. This happens to me 2-3 times a year. I leave a window open 2 inches nearby and the stove door opened until the pressure equlibriates. Once I don't feel the cold air, I light a barbecue lighter and place it near the door which is opened a crack. if the flame flickers inward, my negative pressure issue is gone (to make sure the pressure is positive..). I have smoked out my basement. Smoke coming out from the primary and secondary air intakes is not a pleasant feeling.
Let us know how you make out!
Andrew
I have to agree with others...you may have a negative pressure in the flue which is causing the emissions to creep out of the stove rather than go up when you smolder the fire/shut down the damper and the draft gets reduced.
The situation you lived regarding the smoking of the room happens to me now and again. My stove primary air comes from the top down towards the front glass. In a negative pressure situation I can feel the cold air coming down. This happens to me 2-3 times a year. I leave a window open 2 inches nearby and the stove door opened until the pressure equlibriates. Once I don't feel the cold air, I light a barbecue lighter and place it near the door which is opened a crack. if the flame flickers inward, my negative pressure issue is gone (to make sure the pressure is positive..). I have smoked out my basement. Smoke coming out from the primary and secondary air intakes is not a pleasant feeling.
Let us know how you make out!
Andrew
You may find this article helpful. There are several conditions that can contribute to negative pressure. Some are not so obvious, like an upstairs window cracked open or a leaky attic vent.
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
On a really damp day in shoulder season, if we have our (old) stove cut back the CO detector will go off. We learned to burn short hot fires. I do think every install is different. Do you have a lot of tall trees (taller than your chimney) nearby? These can create downdraft given the right conditions...... Definitely check the negative pressure signs begreen posted. It only takes one. If you have any type of downdraft or negative pressure issues, it is going to happen when running the stove very closed up and on cold starts.
This is why you have a CO detector.
This is why you have a CO detector.
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