Chain issues

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basswidow

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Oct 17, 2008
1,316
Milton GA
I was cutting a fairly large oak yesterday (3ft trunk). The top had split and fallen out and it was basically a totem pole. I don't usually like to drop trees, but scrounging is getting tight.

I cut my sight wedge cut, went around to the back and did a back cut up about 2 inches. It made a crack, I put my wedge in the back cut and hit it a few times - but it wouldn't go. So I did alittle more cutting on the back cut and it fell just perfectly. The problem is - I don't have felling wedges - I used a steel splitting wedge and I got the wedge alittle with my chain..... dang it. Everything was going just fine until then. Brand new chain too.

So I tried to use my file and point it up - but it's just not cutting. It's a Stihl RSC chain. Should I take it to a shop - can they get it back in shape?

I am gonna get a new chain today - because the main trunk is still there and I want that wood - before someone else grabs it.

I did the rest of the cutting with my 16 inch saw and the chain on that one jumped off the bar (must have been loose) and when the chain hit the guard, it scratched up some of the underside of the teeth (drive side) so now this chain won't go into the bar track. I tried to take my flat file to knock off some of the burs, but now this chain isn't working.

Frustrating day - but atleast I got 2 truck loads before all was said and done. There's another 2 still there I need to get. I hate to go thru 2 chains in one days worth of scrounging. Bummer.
 
I use metal on the bigger trees a lot just more lift and better than double stacking. When I pull one out I am done sawing and the tree just needs a little more push

I would take it to the shop and see what they think.
 
Hi -

I had a big afternoon yesterday. I dropped 5 Ash in a woods. I 'nicked' 2 of the three wedges (plastic). The trees were about 20" and soe leaned the wrong way a couple feet.

On the 3rd tree on of the 'nicked' wedges cracked. It was about 18F outsde. I started cutting wooden one's of Elm then. I also had to use a Cant hook with a 7' pole on it top get the darn things to untangle and drop free. Heading out to haul them before the weather closes in.

Bottom line - I like to take 2 or 3 in the woods. They are a blessing when bucking larger stuff that is not supported in the middle.

ATB,
Mike
 
LOL, you sound as careless as I am with chains :roll:

Get a grinder. Yes they prolly are going to make you go through chains quicker. But nothing like having two extras with you every time that are 'right'.

I think you already know you need to

1)Keep the chain properly tight. Throwing chains often screws up drive teeth
2)Get some softer felling wedges.
 
I use a dremel to clean up nicked drive links....

Also for a alternative to steel wedges with more lift then plastic are the aluminum wedges.....
 
Next time you might try felling the tree without using wedges. Around here we rarely use them but I always have wedges with me when cutting just in case.
 
Our Stihl dealer charges $6 to sharpen a chain.



zzr7ky: "Bottom line - I like to take 2 or 3 in the woods. They are a blessing when bucking larger stuff that is not supported in the middle."

Take 2 or 3 what? If wedges, how do they help buck large stuff?
 
Thanks for the replies. I took the chain to the dealer - along with the saw. $ 12 for them to sharpen. Heck - I can get a new oregon one for $ 13.

Went ahead and put the saw in for them to look at the oil pump. I still can't get it to pump oil. I know the worm gear is engaged. Could be the pick up ? I think the pump is bad. I'd change it myself - but I don't have a clutch puller and piston plug.

I got the saw off ebay and I was suspect it had issues. Dang it. Time I'm done, I will have the same amount into it as if I'd bought new. Price of new - yet an old used saw.

$ 45 just for them to look at it. $ 84 labor $ 60+ on the pump....... I figure it's going to cost me $ 150 to get it running right.

Mean while - someones gonna get the big oak I dropped and wasn't able to buck! Dang it
 
basswidow said:
Thanks for the replies. I took the chain to the dealer - along with the saw. $ 12 for them to sharpen. Heck - I can get a new oregon one for $ 13.

Went ahead and put the saw in for them to look at the oil pump. I still can't get it to pump oil. I know the worm gear is engaged. Could be the pick up ? I think the pump is bad. I'd change it myself - but I don't have a clutch puller and piston plug.

I got the saw off ebay and I was suspect it had issues. Dang it. Time I'm done, I will have the same amount into it as if I'd bought new. Price of new - yet an old used saw.

$ 45 just for them to look at it. $ 84 labor $ 60+ on the pump....... I figure it's going to cost me $ 150 to get it running right.

Mean while - someones gonna get the big oak I dropped and wasn't able to buck! Dang it

WOW!!!!!

Here it is $3.25 for them to sharpen a chain and it does not matter how long it is....

What size saw???


Piston stop = rope

Clutch puller ????

Go get that saw back and we will talk you through it and save you some money....
 
basswidow said:
I was cutting a fairly large oak yesterday (3ft trunk). The top had split and fallen out and it was basically a totem pole. I don't usually like to drop trees, but scrounging is getting tight.
.

I realize the question regards your chains but I have a comment about the above. I never drop a good, healthy green tree, either, but why do you avoid dropping a dead or damaged tree? Seems easier, to me, than going out scrounging.

By the way, where was this tree located that you are worried about someone else getting the wood?
I hope you get a saw running, or borrow or rent one, and get back out there and scoop up that good wood.
 
southbound said:
basswidow said:
Thanks for the replies. I took the chain to the dealer - along with the saw. $ 12 for them to sharpen. Heck - I can get a new oregon one for $ 13.

Went ahead and put the saw in for them to look at the oil pump. I still can't get it to pump oil. I know the worm gear is engaged. Could be the pick up ? I think the pump is bad. I'd change it myself - but I don't have a clutch puller and piston plug.

I got the saw off ebay and I was suspect it had issues. Dang it. Time I'm done, I will have the same amount into it as if I'd bought new. Price of new - yet an old used saw.

$ 45 just for them to look at it. $ 84 labor $ 60+ on the pump....... I figure it's going to cost me $ 150 to get it running right.

Mean while - someones gonna get the big oak I dropped and wasn't able to buck! Dang it

WOW!!!!!

Here it is $3.25 for them to sharpen a chain and it does not matter how long it is....

What size saw???


Piston stop = rope

Clutch puller ????

Go get that saw back and we will talk you through it and save you some money....


Heck 3.25$ I got a couple they can do.lol
 
smokinjay said:
southbound said:
basswidow said:
Thanks for the replies. I took the chain to the dealer - along with the saw. $ 12 for them to sharpen. Heck - I can get a new oregon one for $ 13.

Went ahead and put the saw in for them to look at the oil pump. I still can't get it to pump oil. I know the worm gear is engaged. Could be the pick up ? I think the pump is bad. I'd change it myself - but I don't have a clutch puller and piston plug.

I got the saw off ebay and I was suspect it had issues. Dang it. Time I'm done, I will have the same amount into it as if I'd bought new. Price of new - yet an old used saw.

$ 45 just for them to look at it. $ 84 labor $ 60+ on the pump....... I figure it's going to cost me $ 150 to get it running right.

Mean while - someones gonna get the big oak I dropped and wasn't able to buck! Dang it

WOW!!!!!

Here it is $3.25 for them to sharpen a chain and it does not matter how long it is....

What size saw???


Piston stop = rope

Clutch puller ????

Go get that saw back and we will talk you through it and save you some money....


Heck 3.25$ I got a couple they can do.lol

haha I wonder if they'd accept FedEx Overnite Express? Last time I had any chains reground or modified locally it was a few yrs back & cost quite a bit more than 3 bucks.
 
Kenster said:
I realize the question regards your chains but I have a comment about the above. I never drop a good, healthy green tree, either, but why do you avoid dropping a dead or damaged tree? Seems easier, to me, than going out scrounging.

By the way, where was this tree located that you are worried about someone else getting the wood?
I hope you get a saw running, or borrow or rent one, and get back out there and scoop up that good wood.

Thanks Kenster,

I don't have alot of experience dropping trees and would feel more comfortable doing so with someone more experienced then myself. I have dropped 2 leaners and this big oak in 3 years. The top of this tree was still hung onto the main trunk - so it was dicey that it could all come down on me while cutting. I threw it opposite and cut from the opposite side of the tree where it was hung (meaning nothing over my head). The reason I dinged my chain was because - I created a good bit of distance from it once it started to give and I didn't pull my bar out straight and grazed the wedge. I had plenty of room to miss it - but I was thinking more about getting the heck away from it for safety reasons.

Turns out - it fell right were I set it to go and it went down ever so gently. So I was pleased. I'd much rather cut wood that's already down. It's safer for someone like me. The tree is in a new housing property in a guy's front yard very close and visible to the street. Since the guy gave me permission - I feel an obligation to get it all in one day. I explained to him - I had a problem with my larger saw and would come back for the trunk next weekend. Hopefully, someone else won't see it and get it. It's two good pick up loads full. All the other wood - I got with my smaller saw. 4 truck loads. I'm beat - a more snow to shovel today.

Cutting dead standing trees can be dangerous due to several reasons. You may have a hollow trunk that would give way during a cut. If the tree is the size of a gallon jug, I'm not too worried. This tree had a trunk I couldn't wrap my arms around. My 20 inch bar did not make it all the way thru ( cut from both sides). It was an agreesive scrounge for me and above my experience level - yet I went for it. Stuff like this - I should go with a buddy who could coach me or I could watch him drop a few for learning purposes.
 
southbound said:
They will add or take out links for me at no charge as well..

I do however show up from time to time with coffee.....

Iced coffee of course
Cafe9.jpg

Hmmm, wonder why they give you such a deal . . .
 
Wow I would look at finding another dealer to take my business to. I go to a dealer if I buy a part and its something as simple as a worm gear or drive sprocket they go ahead and install it at no charge, chains sharpened for 4.00 they are a great dealer to work with. I quit buying oregon chains they seem to be of less quailty steel and just don't hold up as well as stihl chains in my opinon. Good luck and I find that at least for me I try to keep at least two extra sharp chains for my bars on hand spent the day sharping chains and cleaning saws (preventive maintance day due to rain lol) Back at cutting tommorow YIPPPE
 
Yeah - that's a good call. Since the saw was new to me - I had the chain that came with it (rough) and the new one I bought. I suppose I'll buy another so that I have atleast 2 spares.

The dealer I am using has a great reputation with Stihl. I think this is just an expensive area.

One thing that contributed to me taking it to the dealer is - I put a screw driver into my finger putting the C clip back onto the sproket, and then sank a tree spike into another finger - just not being careful (should have been wearing my gloves). So I was bothered by the saw at the moment due to my injuries.

It's been a rough few days. I just shoveled again and put down 80 lbs of salt on the driveway. I am sore.

Oh yeah, salt in the wound - really does sting!
 
basswidow said:
Yeah - that's a good call. Since the saw was new to me - I had the chain that came with it (rough) and the new one I bought. I suppose I'll buy another so that I have atleast 2 spares.

The dealer I am using has a great reputation with Stihl. I think this is just an expensive area.

One thing that contributed to me taking it to the dealer is - I put a screw driver into my finger putting the C clip back onto the sproket, and then sank a tree spike into another finger - just not being careful (should have been wearing my gloves). So I was bothered by the saw at the moment due to my injuries.

It's been a rough few days. I just shoveled again and put down 80 lbs of salt on the driveway. I am sore.

Oh yeah, salt in the wound - really does sting!

You should have another storm coming your way! (Bitter cold after the snow) Ice storm this A.M. followed by 4-6 inchs and bitter cold headed East!
 
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