Post in 'The Wood Shed' started by Oww My Back Hurts, Jun 23, 2013.
12-15 chains, I'd have a grinder as well...can't blame you one bit.. Why give your work away?
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sorry to hijack but looking at the Granberg bar mount sharpener. Anyone have any experience using this?
I agree. you can get a more even pressure going the direction you want. It again comes to keeping it sharp.
If you have a really crummy chain you tend to want to put a lot of pressure on it. It will just make a bad sharpening job worse.
I cant see me spending the money for a grinder for my 6 chains...
I always use a set of high power reading glasses when I sharpen.
When I first started sharpening I would take a few strokes and look at it with a magnifying glass to see what you are taking off.
You can get a good idea of where it is going from there.
I have that granberg mount. Little hard to understand at first (not very good instructions) but it seems to do a good job. Definitely keeps your file at the correct angle, much better than you could do free hand.
Thanks Smith! I've read good reviews, only negative is what you said about the instructions. I guess ill give it a go.
1) Chainsaws do not have "blades." They have bars and chains.
2) I usually cut with a sharp chain till it gets dull. I've never come close to 2 or 3 cords without sharpening. On my best day of 20+ years of wood cutting I might have got through 1/2 a cord on a single sharpening.
3) Learn to file yourself and save that $10
Sharpening by hand has made me more cautious as to what your cutting into and near, as far as rocks, barbed wire in trees, etc... The upside, a touch up takes less then 5 minutes so no big down time...
If that sucker isn't throwing some big chips, but is starting to throw some dust, I swap it out. Redd, don't you use chipper chain? Still not making it through a cord doesn't surprise me, and I sure can't with chisel chain.
I usually don't have much problem with grit in the soil but I was cutting in the bottom of a ravine the other day where there was exposed rock. I don't think I hit any rocks but I wonder if rain splashed some sand up on the wood; Roasted two chains inside of five minutes. Chaps yer arse when you sharpen 'em by hand.
Can you post a close up like the one I got? Twist or not the file once it cuts enough it will make a Chanel the size of your file.
That's why I like to use the jig every third or fourth time. The clamps hold the chain down and the file stays at the level you set it. File can't drop into the gullet (or the chain can't lift up, causing the file to get to the bottom of the gullet.)
Any close ups pics?
They may have a deep gullet if I had sharpened several times before truing them up with the jig. But I'm only concerned with the top of the tooth. After I true the chain, it will look like this....the top of the tooth will have a different angle than the gullet. On the Stihl 33 RS chain I use, only the top of the tooth is cutting. If you imagine cutting a log from the bottom, with the top of the bar, and look at the cutting edge from the front of the tooth, it will look somewhat like the number "7". Only the top 1/2 of the "7" is cutting, and it will have the angles I want. The gullet area isn't doing any cutting.
Check out the middle pic here:
This chain was on about the fourth freehand sharpening; I get lazy and don't want to take the extra time of using the jig. Need to score that grinder that an old boy offered to sell me a while back.
That what most think but it really comes down to clearing chips. Not much different than keeping everything clean. That is a lot better than i normal see as well Nice Job! If you can get a little deeper into that gullet it will stay sharp longer.
That's gotta be the filthiest tooth ever! And if you look closely, you can see that one is dull....front edge is pretty shiny.
Only part I would judge is the part the file touched. I got pic's of milling chains that will curl a hand filers toes!
I watch the chips,definitely dont wait until its powder before getting out the file.Denser woods like Honey Locust,White Oak,dry Mulberry etc will have slightly smaller chips mixed in even with a new out of the box or freshly sharpened chain.
And that .404 square chisel full skip basically makes mulch,no matter what wood I'm cutting!
Skip tooth round bit chains. Stihl. Not sure what the official designation is.
I do what Woodystover does, install my oregon jig and raise the file up so I'm filing higher again into the cutter face, once I see the deep gullet starting to form.. At the same time I dial caliper my cutters before mounting the jig so I know where I'm going to file too as to have all the cutters the same length...
I wonder why you want all the teeth to the same length? Why not take the same number of swipes on each tooth, and let them be where they be? There will be some very minimal different in tooth heights, but that's surely an issue more of theory than practicality, assuming you lower each depth gauge properly in relation to its own cutter. Seems to me you're doing a LOT of extra work for some very minimal / theoretical gain.
I found that free hand filing in between the jig use, you don't keep them as even as you think, so I like to bring things back to pretty even.. I've been doing it for 35 years so it goes very quick for me... Keeping the teeth all the same length ,,,, all the cutters take the same amount of bite providing the raker heights have all been set with a gauge as well = smooth cutting chain...
Now that just makes sense now doesn't it?
It was the gentlest way I could answer a dumb question. If I make 10 cuts with a new chain and it dulls, I sharpen it. If I make 100 cuts and it's still cutting good, I keep cutting. It's a very simple principle but is somehow beyond the grasp of many otherwise very capable people.
I couldn't imagine re-sharpening every tank of gas with my MS460's. I'd never get anything done.
Busting that 460 right you should have enough work for a few guys with a tank of fuel. Go home and sharpen in the shop where its heated...
Two tanks will load the truck most days. And you've seen my loads.
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