Chain Sharpening

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basswidow

Minister of Fire
Oct 17, 2008
1,316
Milton GA
I field file my chains with the appropriate round files (to go from dust to chips again) usually everytime I top the gas and oil. And I a flat file the rakers for a better bite (only when needed - once a month or so).

However, I can't get them to perform like the shop does when you first use them from being sharpened. I guess they use a grinder? I'd love to look over their shoulder and see how they are getting it done. How ARE they doing it?

Whats the next step for me to be able to have Shop Quality sharpening skills? What tools do I need and how can I learn?

My shop charges $ 15 per chain - which I think is too high. Should I get a roto grinder?

As a scrounger - the stuff I get is not always clean cutting and it's rough on chains. Some of it's old hard wood, some is dirty, etc.

I don't mind having the shop point up a chain once a season - but I'm trying to save money.

So someone help me improve my sharpening and save me some $$$$$
 
Once you use a grinder to sharpen a blade, it puts a glaze on the metal and "heat treats" it so that you can't get a good sharpening with the file. It's better if you sharpen it with a file from the beginning of its life to the end.
 
As part of the chainsaw course I took recently (I posted about it on another thread), the instructor went over several options for filing guides and other various fixtures for sharpening. A few minutes later he offered to file one ofthe participants saws and hand sharpened with no jigs or fixture despite having them laid out on the table. He did use a special gauge for setting the rakers and commented that many of the gauges "average" the raker height over several teeth which results in some error. This works but I expect that without a jig its easy to slowly get out of spec and either over or under hook the edge. When that happens I expect a device will be needed to get back to the correct proportions.

While talking about chain types, he did note that chisel tooth chains are great for clean wood and fast cutting but they get dull quickly when used near dirt, other types of chains are probably better suited for cutting in dirty conditions such as circular or semi circular. I expect this may open up a can of worms on chain type so I will leave it at that.

One thing he did state is that the files you use should be the right size, new and carefully treated, they should not bang up against each other in storage and should be wrapped individually and replaced frequently. I believe that this may be a big factor as a good file will take a fast clean cut with little pressure while a dull file will need mulitple strokes and more pressure that will tend to deflect the tooth and leave a duller edge.
 
After failing with very basic file guides on my 30-55 cc saws (just couldn't keep angles consistent), about 35 yrs ago, I tried a Granberg "File n Joint". Still using the same one today. As required, pop in 5/32", 7/32" or flat file (for depth gauges.)

Keeps angles very consistent, typically a couple of strokes/tooth and they're like razors again. I don't think you can do that free-hand, certainly not for long.

OTOH, grinders can really remove metal fast. Haven't seen one that'll work with chain on the bar.
 
podius said:
Once you use a grinder to sharpen a blade, it puts a glaze on the metal and "heat treats" it so that you can't get a good sharpening with the file. It's better if you sharpen it with a file from the beginning of its life to the end.


In no way is there any truth to that statement!
 
I have done pretty good work free hand, but after I bought the Stihl sharpening kit I always have good results.
 
bioman said:
I bought a Granberg “File n Joint†in 1980, thats what i use. works great !

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/embed/XMJ8zYJUfIY[/youtube]
 
+1 on the Stihl sharpening kit. Best $20.00 bucks I ever spent. Its all ready paid for its self many times over.
 
Thanks for the replies guys......

I found an article: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/2002-10-01/Keeping-Your-Chainsaw-Sharp.aspx

I think I know what my problem is. I used to think I was pretty good with free hand filing.

I think my files are old and I need replacements (a moment of DUH). I've had these files for quite awhile. They even have alittle rust on them. I am gonna try that. Lord knows I don't take care of them. I let them bang around in the tool bag and I've never applied oil to them. No wonder I can't get a good sharp chain - TIME TO BUY SOME NEW FILES!

Before I buy a guide or grinder - I think I'll just get some FRESH files and take better care of my stuff and see if that does the trick and avoid me having to have the shop do the sharpening.

Thanks
 
Bigg_Redd said:
I haven't found a file guide that is an improvement over my freehand filing. . .

Nor me.I learned on a Granberg File & Joint,its been hanging on wall behind bench for 25+ yrs now.Its easy once you master the basics.
 
peakbagger said:
As part of the chainsaw course I took recently (I posted about it on another thread), the instructor went over several options for filing guides and other various fixtures for sharpening. A few minutes later he offered to file one ofthe participants saws and hand sharpened with no jigs or fixture despite having them laid out on the table. He did use a special gauge for setting the rakers and commented that many of the gauges "average" the raker height over several teeth which results in some error. This works but I expect that without a jig its easy to slowly get out of spec and either over or under hook the edge. When that happens I expect a device will be needed to get back to the correct proportions.

While talking about chain types, he did note that chisel tooth chains are great for clean wood and fast cutting but they get dull quickly when used near dirt, other types of chains are probably better suited for cutting in dirty conditions such as circular or semi circular. I expect this may open up a can of worms on chain type so I will leave it at that.

One thing he did state is that the files you use should be the right size, new and carefully treated, they should not bang up against each other in storage and should be wrapped individually and replaced frequently. I believe that this may be a big factor as a good file will take a fast clean cut with little pressure while a dull file will need mulitple strokes and more pressure that will tend to deflect the tooth and leave a duller edge.

If all of your cutter teeth are the same length/height (They are right ... :coolhmm: ) then an "average" should be fine. ;-) If the cutters are not all equal then the chain won't cut in a straight line.

If you really can't get a chain "right" by hand, then getting it ground on a good grinder that does not need readjustment when switching from the left to the right side cutters will straighten it out and then have all the rakers set to exactly the same height. Should be like new! Beware of cheap grinders that are not "symmetrical".
 
podius said:
Once you use a grinder to sharpen a blade, it puts a glaze on the metal and "heat treats" it so that you can't get a good sharpening with the file. It's better if you sharpen it with a file from the beginning of its life to the end.


Man thisstatement is a lot of BS.This is most likely the stupidest statement that I have ever heard on this site.I own a grinder and have had excellent success with it. If someone should over heat a cutter, this is due to operator error, not the machine.This is the grinder that I purchased and am very happy with. I would stay away from the Harbor freight grinder. Watch the free video Ken

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=45340&catID=9761
 
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