chainsaw questions

[mfglickman]

Hello,

I bought (my first ever) a reconditioned ECHO chainsaw at home depot fee weeks ago. Worked great first weekend, but seems to go through chain and bar oil quickly. The reservoir is empty everytime I need to put in new gas or tighten the chain. I have used a quart in 3 weekends. Is this normal?

After 3 weekends of use, the chain seems to stick when I start the saw: I engage the chain with the trigger and it doesn't spin for a few seconds. Is something wrong?

It also seems to be working harder to cut through logs now. First weekend I used it, the saw cut pretty easily through wood. Now it is much slower and works harder. Do I need a new chain?

Sorry for the length of the post and thank you for your help

 

[basod]

You've sharpened the chain? Make sure your using the correct angle, it can be difficult(freehand filing) to get the same angle on the opposite teeth, this will make it cut sideways.

As far as the chain not moving after initial starting, make sure the brake has positive disegagement, if the bar oil reservoir was run dry then it could just lack of lubrication, or your chain is too tight.

Take the chain cover off and blow it out, the clutch could be packed with dust/oil. Clean the bar groove out as well.

As far as oil consumption, I wouldn't say that is excessive, as long as its not leaking out when off and actually getting to the bar/chain. After reassembly point the chain at a clean cardboard target and rev the saw - you should see small oil specs hitting the cardboard.

Cleaning the saw regularly will increase its life expectancy.

 

[NH_Wood]

In terms of bar and chain oil, I need to fill after each tank of gas. Cheers!

 

[LLigetfa]

Most saws are designed to run out of gas before they run out of oil. Some saws can go two tanks of gas to one of oil. You could try using a heavier weight oil.

A dull chain will heat up and stretch so if you retension it hot, it may be too tight when cold. A dull hot chain may also bake on some tree juice and get a little stiff in the links.

B&C oil can get between the clutch and the brake band and when cold, provide additional resistance.

 

[greg13]

Check the manual, SOME Echo's had an adjustment for the bar oil pump. Ideally you want a tank of oil to a tank of gas. Make sure you have the plates that go against the bar in place, if one is missing that could allow too much oil to the chain.

 

[HittinSteel]

Bar oil to fuel consumption sounds right.

LLigetfa has some good ideas on the chain binding, I'd follow his suggestions.

Are you still throwing "chips" when you cut?.....if its more like dust, you need to have your chain sharpened. After 3 weeks of cutting, I'm guessing it needs sharpened.

 

[ScotO]

Make sure if you sharpen your chain yourself that you file the rakers as well. Google it on the internet to learn the proper way to file a chain. Make sure you don't run your chain into dirt or stones that will make it dull almost instantly. Also running your saw without bar oil is really hard on the bar and chain. Your oil consumption sounds about right....

 

[Gark]

One more thing to check- if your bar has a nose sprocket, it could be locked with chips and dust. Remove the bar and chain and check if the nose sprocket (on the end of the bar) spins freely by hand. Have seen the sprockets lock up sometimes.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Hello,

I bought (my first ever) a reconditioned ECHO chainsaw at home depot fee weeks ago. Worked great first weekend, but seems to go through chain and bar oil quickly. The reservoir is empty everytime I need to put in new gas or tighten the chain. I have used a quart in 3 weekends. Is this normal?

After 3 weekends of use, the chain seems to stick when I start the saw: I engage the chain with the trigger and it doesn't spin for a few seconds. Is something wrong?

It also seems to be working harder to cut through logs now. First weekend I used it, the saw cut pretty easily through wood. Now it is much slower and works harder. Do I need a new chain?

Sorry for the length of the post and thank you for your help

I have discovered that my echo uses even 1 tank to 1 tank of oil and gas at a time. It is a little beast of a saw however I need to adjust the carb on occasion as it gets a little off and doesn't run rich enough for me. Try adjusting the carb so it has a bit high on the rich end and it will fly right off the bat. My saw will kick on with one pull every time and I can hit the trigger and it responds immediately because it is just a bit rich. Don't go to rich or you could hurt your saws too EPA is usually set a little low on saws which isn't good. When you sink it into a log your saw will use more fuel and being a little rich will give it the power it needs on take off. As for the sticking I have had mine do that the stock echo bar was crap so I put a Oregon bar on it and that fixed all the chain issues.

Pete

 

[Pallet Pete]

I should also point out to check which bar oil your running as there usually is a different bar oil recommended for the winter and summer months listed in the manual. Sometimes it helps sometimes it doesn't help but its always better to follow the manual.

Pete

 

[bogydave]

I had something similar happen on my old saw when my drive sprocket wore out, it was grooved real bad. I went to the rim & sprocket type , new bar & chain from Oregon.
Should replace drive sprocket every 2 chains or at least inspect it. Not sure the HD folks do that.
All good things to check above.
Something to do with the bar, sprockets &/or chain. Should replace drive sprocket every 2 chains or at least inspect it.
Take the bar off & inspect & clean everything. Is it the right pitch & gauge chain for the drive sprocket & bar?
Bar should have some numbers, specs on it.
Some maintenance tips: (a few tabs to select)
http://www.oregonchain.com/homeowner/service/maintenance_tips.htm

 

[smokinj]

Sounds to me your dont running good chains. The duller the chain gets the hotter your bar will become. This is more of an issue on a saw that cant throw alot of oil.

 

[ethanhudson]

It also seems to be working harder to cut through logs now. First weekend I used it, the saw cut pretty easily through wood. Now it is much slower and works harder. Do I need a new chain?

You probably don't need a new chain, but surely it needs to be sharpened after three weekends. I get my chain sharpened basically every time before I go cut (granted I cut alot of dirty wood.) I have two chains (one pro, one safety that came with saw.) and I make sure they are both sharp before I go out. That way if I knick a chain on a rock or something nasty or the chain starts to dull from the dirt on the wood I can just switch out. Alot of people touch up their own chains with a file when out in the field and have them sharpened later after several filings; I don't bother, I don't know how to properly file a chain and don't have too much interest in figuring out how. I just take mine to the local shop and get them sharpened every time (only costs like $3.5 each per time) it makes cutting wood MUCH easier.

 

[grateful]

If you have some extra cash take the recon back to home depot and buy a saw that you don't have to tinker with and will last.
My first saw was a reconditioned $150. Poulan, I returned it after one day because the exhaust smelled bad and my hands would go numb after 1/2 hour of use. Next stop was the Stihl shop for a 'Farm Boss', it was ok but at $500(CDN) it still had too much vibration. I returned the 'Boss' and bought the $900(CDN) MS361, the low end professional model, no vibration and I can cut wood all day. The folks at Stihl were happy to upgrade, I did clean the saw prior to return. I cut 8 to 10 cords a year and the saw still runs great after 6 years. I sharpen the chain, clean and rotate the bar and vacuum the air filter after every cord. This saw has an oil output adjustment for the chain but I've never needed to adjust, I just check for oil spray off the chain occasionally. The oil reservoir always has a few ounces of oil remaining when the gas tank is empty.
You may want to check your saw for an oil output adjustment or return it to home depot and have them adjust it.
Good luck.
Note: Six years ago $900 CDN was about $600 USD.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Thats funny I have used my poulan pro for a couple years now and with a sharp chain it is unstoppable! My echo is a very good quality saw and can run with the best of them too. In fact I am sticking with echo and upgrading from poulan pro to one of echos large saws when my poulan dies ( which won't be for a while ) it runs strong.


Pete

 

[grateful]

My friend has an Echo that is 30 years old, I chuckle when I see him with it, then he fires it up and it cuts better that my Stihl. My friend is a nationally recognized arborist so he must know something about tools.
The Ford dealer took 3 years to rebuild my van engine and make it run right - since then I don't mess with it unless it works right the first time.

 

[wsurfer49]

I cut about 6 cords of wood a year have 3 chains for each saw and I bought a harbor freight electric chain sharpener 5 or 6 years ago. It cost around $50 ($8 to have sharpened out) and has always done a great job. I cut oak mostly and some juniper and pine and a sharp chain is the only safe way to go. Also keeps my frustration factor low. There are many inexpensive sharpeners out there that do a decent job and will save you time, money and frustration. I recently upgraded to a chain from Northern Hydr. for a little over $100. Nothing wrong with the cheaper models. Just keep your chains SHARP.