Chainsaw rebuild

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babzog

Member
Oct 25, 2011
231
Eastern Ontario, Canada
So I got the parts (p&c) to rebuild my MS290 sitting in pieces. Anything else I might as well replace while I'm at it? As well, once I pull the parts from the washer, what if anything should I use as an assembly lube?
 
I use anti seize on the muffler bolts or other bolts that might need to come out every now & then.
 
Use 2 cycle oil on the piston, pin bearing, big end rod bearing & mains. Make sure there are no air leaks or you will be replacing the P&C again, Randy
 
+1 on the 2 cycle oil as assembly lube. If it's a slow process re-building it (more than a day or two), I'll fog it with Deep Creep (Seafoam in a spray can) and tug it a few times to distribute. Warning: the saw will smoke like hell for a few seconds when you start it up the 1st time.
 
Maybe replace the fuel and impulse lines if they are older. Fuel lines tend to crack over time.
 
Reg 2 cycle oil as assembly lube, check.

Air leak - how would I determine if one exists? Why would a leak somewhere cause this type of failure?

Good thought on the lines. What is an "impulse line"? Is it that little corrugated looking hose nr the bottom of the cylinder?
 
babzog said:
Reg 2 cycle oil as assembly lube, check.

Air leak - how would I determine if one exists? Why would a leak somewhere cause this type of failure?

Good thought on the lines. What is an "impulse line"? Is it that little corrugated looking hose nr the bottom of the cylinder?
Ideally you would pressure & vaccum test the saw. Next best is to wiggle carb. boots, check clamps & carb bolts etc. A leak will lean out the mixture cause more heat & less lubrication to the piston, Randy
 
Crank seals, fuel line and filter, carb rebuild kit. Check out :http://www.arboristsite.com/
lot's of chainsaw rebuilding info. How to pressure/vacuum test. Also how to recondition a cylinder with muratic acid.

You definitely don't want to have a vacuum leak, you will likely seize your saw.
 
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