Cheapo Project

[gerry100]

Currently have a Country Canyon freestanding on my extended hearth in front of a fireplace opening.

I think we may gain some efficiency by blocking the air flow into the old fireplace ( chimney is blocked ).

Stove installer wanted $400 to brick up opening, I think I can do it cheaper.

A sheet of brick red steel roofing from HP cut to size and attached over the opening shouild do it for < $25.

Metal will be about 2in from the back of the stove ( not the back of the firebox but the convection panel on the back).

Any recomms on adhesive?

 

[Wet1]

I'm not sure I would use that, but if you're going to, why not use screws (rather than adhesive) to attach it so it can be removed?

 

[meathead]

No adhesives I can think of that aren't pretty permanent.

I would cut the thing right to size and back it with insulation if it were me. You never know when you may want to yank the stove and have a nice open fireplace, seems a shame to close it up permanently.

 

[meathead]

Screws are a good call

 

[gerry100]

Screws into brick? Hmmmm

Details/tips on that apprach needed.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

I closed up mine using steel studding that is masonry screwed into the mortar between bricks and firebricks. I added kaowool insulation between the studs, then sealed off with durock. Pic below was from early in the close off process - ignore the steel structure in the back that is supporting the liner

 

[Fsappo]

screws with lags and shield

 

[oconnor]

gerry1000 - Try TAPCON screws.

CarbonNeutral -
Question - how to you access the tee behind the permanent wall structure?

 

[CarbonNeutral]

gerry1000 - Try TAPCON screws.

CarbonNeutral -
Question - how to you access the tee behind the permanent wall structure?

Sweep top down, access stove pipe and tee from top of stove - the F500 has an oval cookplate area that floats on the stove top. I was originally going to have to move the stove to access it all, but I think I'll be fine with this method.

 

[Thrash44047]

Tap-Cons are great Just remember that they hold great in brick, like crap in the mortar.

 

[oconnor]

gerry1000 - Try TAPCON screws.

CarbonNeutral -
Question - how to you access the tee behind the permanent wall structure?

Sweep top down, access stove pipe and tee from top of stove - the F500 has an oval cookplate area that floats on the stove top. I was originally going to have to move the stove to access it all, but I think I'll be fine with this method.

Not the topic of the original thread, but I have a question.

I note the "waiting for inspector" part of your signature - wondering if he will have a concern about the removable bottom of the tee being behind the finished wall. May be late to need, but would a solid 90* elbow with some downslope on the pipe to the stove be better?

I am genuinely not sure, so I ask the question.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

I'll be able to access the 3" or so below the pipe with the vacuum hose, so I don't think that it matters either way - I also rationalize this with the fact that a tee 6 ft up a chimney cannot be accessed from the bottom without a clean out door anyway - maybe to keep on the original post - ask me anything else over here:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/44538/

 

[gerry100]

Great Tip - the Tapcons worked great

Cut a section steel roof I had laying around to size $0

Small pack of 3/16 tapcons plus bit $7.00

2 cans flat black paint $4.00

2 small pieces of SG insulation $8.00

Duct taped the FG Insulation to painted panel, placed over opening so that edges of inslation trapped between steel and brick.

Screwed down the steel to the brick, trapping the insualtion edges to make seal.

Finished matched stove finish and has R6.7.

Materials $20.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

[meathead]

duct tape going to melt / catch fire?

 

[gerry100]

Tape at the edges pulled out once the metal screwed in place snadwiching the edges of the insulation.

The little bit left on the back will probabnly not get over 150F in my est6ination.

 

[meathead]

Tape at the edges pulled out once the metal screwed in place snadwiching the edges of the insulation.

The little bit left on the back will probabnly not get over 150F in my est6ination.

Sweet - post some pics

 

[gerry100]

Pics wont show anything its all behind the stove

 

[meathead]

Gotcha - I was picturing it being visable around the sides at top of the stove