Check out my new Enviro M55 install...

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JBiBBs5

Member
Sep 8, 2011
151
Rhode Island
I just had my new Enviro M55 installed yesterday and fired it right up. I loaded it with stove chow and it's burning like a beauty.

It gave off an unpleasant scent but I was told that's because it's brand new and the smell should be completely gone after a few days of burning. The OAK is being installed today and I do believe this is absolutely necessary because the intake was pulling pretty hard last night.

Let me know what you all think.
 

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Nicely done! Good luck and hope the stove provides you many years of warmth.
 
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric
 
kinsman stoves said:
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric

The installer wants to use PVC rather than flex for the OAK. I'm assuming the he is going to use 2" PVC but the intake looks like it's designed for a 3" pipe. Would the 2" PVC be sufficient or should I insist that the piping be 3"?
 
Negative. An OAK need a none combustible pipe. Hmmmmm I would be double checking his install.

Eric


JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric

The installer wants to use PVC rather than flex for the OAK. I'm assuming the he is going to use 2" PVC but the intake looks like it's designed for a 3" pipe. Would the 2" PVC be sufficient or should I insist that the piping be 3"?
 
kinsman stoves said:
Negative. An OAK need a none combustible pipe. Hmmmmm I would be double checking his install.

Eric


JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric

The installer wants to use PVC rather than flex for the OAK. I'm assuming the he is going to use 2" PVC but the intake looks like it's designed for a 3" pipe. Would the 2" PVC be sufficient or should I insist that the piping be 3"?

I'll let him know. Everything seemed like it went well with the install. What should I be looking out for?

Also, wouldn't a dryer vent kit work for an OAK?
 
If for some reason you lose power there is a chance the oak can pull the air from the fire box. There is also a chance that an ember would come out and lodge into the Outside Air tube. This could start a fire. Harman's have a flapper inside the stove to help prevent this. I am not sure your unit has this in place. Dryer kit, I would not use this in a direct vent situation.

Eric

JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Negative. An OAK need a none combustible pipe. Hmmmmm I would be double checking his install.

Eric


JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric

The installer wants to use PVC rather than flex for the OAK. I'm assuming the he is going to use 2" PVC but the intake looks like it's designed for a 3" pipe. Would the 2" PVC be sufficient or should I insist that the piping be 3"?

I'll let him know. Everything seemed like it went well with the install. What should I be looking out for?

Also, wouldn't a dryer vent kit work for an OAK?
 
kinsman stoves said:
If for some reason you lose power there is a chance the oak can pull the air from the fire box. There is also a chance that an ember would come out and lodge into the Outside Air tube. This could start a fire. Harman's have a flapper inside the stove to help prevent this. I am not sure your unit has this in place. Dryer kit, I would not use this in a direct vent situation.

Eric

JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Negative. An OAK need a none combustible pipe. Hmmmmm I would be double checking his install.

Eric


JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric

What would be the different between an OAK and dryer vent kit? I was thinking about picking this up and asking him to install it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_47552-85334...urrentURL;=/pl__0__s?Ntt=vent+kit&facetInfo;=

I will also make sure that the fresh air intake is at least two feet from the exhaust.



The installer wants to use PVC rather than flex for the OAK. I'm assuming the he is going to use 2" PVC but the intake looks like it's designed for a 3" pipe. Would the 2" PVC be sufficient or should I insist that the piping be 3"?

I'll let him know. Everything seemed like it went well with the install. What should I be looking out for?

Also, wouldn't a dryer vent kit work for an OAK?
 
JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
If for some reason you lose power there is a chance the oak can pull the air from the fire box. There is also a chance that an ember would come out and lodge into the Outside Air tube. This could start a fire. Harman's have a flapper inside the stove to help prevent this. I am not sure your unit has this in place. Dryer kit, I would not use this in a direct vent situation.

Eric

JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves said:
Negative. An OAK need a none combustible pipe. Hmmmmm I would be double checking his install.

Eric


JBiBBs5 said:
kinsman stoves" date="1316452237 said:
Being that close an opening window you better have an Outside Air. It does look good.

Eric





The installer wants to use PVC rather than flex for the OAK. I'm assuming the he is going to use 2" PVC but the intake looks like it's designed for a 3" pipe. Would the 2" PVC be sufficient or should I insist that the piping be 3"?

I'll let him know. Everything seemed like it went well with the install. What should I be looking out for?

Also, wouldn't a dryer vent kit work for an OAK?


What would be the different between an OAK and dryer vent kit? I was thinking about picking this up and asking him to install it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_47552-85334...urrentURL;=/pl__0__s?Ntt=vent+kit&facetInfo;=

I will also make sure that the fresh air intake is at least two feet from the exhaust.
 
This older thread may help:https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/71189/ There other older threads where the use of PVC resulted in warping from heat back drafting. In the end, all piping leading to and from the stove must be metal. I went to the auto supply with a mock up of what I needed. (mock up done in PVC) then they made a metal one with exhaust pipe. Clamp in line with the OAK and you are good to go. Yes, there are a lot of OAKs installed with PVC in the terminal end, but there is overwhelming evidence that they are not safe. I don't think there are any new installation manuals that recommend the use of PVC.
Two inch pipe in any longer length is often hard to come by. Best bet is any run longer than 5-6 feet should be three inch which is cheap and available at most hardware stores.
Glad you are going to use the OAK. I know a lot of installs where the installer discouraged the owner to install OAK. Unless there is a specific reason not to install Oak, is should be a part of a standard installation.
P.S. Very nice stove and thank you for the pics. Did you remember to use a surge protector?
 
save$ said:
This older thread may help:https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/71189/ There other older threads where the use of PVC resulted in warping from heat back drafting. In the end, all piping leading to and from the stove must be metal. I went to the auto supply with a mock up of what I needed. (mock up done in PVC) then they made a metal one with exhaust pipe. Clamp in line with the OAK and you are good to go. Yes, there are a lot of OAKs installed with PVC in the terminal end, but there is overwhelming evidence that they are not safe. I don't think there are any new installation manuals that recommend the use of PVC.
Two inch pipe in any longer length is often hard to come by. Best bet is any run longer than 5-6 feet should be three inch which is cheap and available at most hardware stores.
Glad you are going to use the OAK. I know a lot of installs where the installer discouraged the owner to install OAK. Unless there is a specific reason not to install Oak, is should be a part of a standard installation.
P.S. Very nice stove and thank you for the pics. Did you remember to use a surge protector?

Yes, I wouldn't even plug it in without the surge protector. The surge I bought was actually pretty expensive and it says that it's for home theatre, electronics, etc. I wonder if it would be better to use one of those extension cords that are designed for refrigerators and other large household appliances instead of the surge protector. The ones with the reset button on them.


As for the OAK, I think I'm going to pick up some aluminum flex and have the installer run it through the small drywall section behind the stove to the left. I can go up and out from there. I'm hoping it is okay to run the flex directly through the drywall without a cover plate because the plate would really not look good there.
 
From my forum education, the surge protector should be just as you have, one that is single use, dedicated to the stove alone. Not one in a power strip. One of good quality. Looks like you have what you need.
My OAK goes right out a hole in the drywall with no faceplate. The exit end then connects to a metal fitting designed for exterior wall placement. It has a screen to keep bugs etc from getting in. Was so easy to install. I don't think it took me longer than 30 min. from tools out and back in place. During extreme cold my OAK will frost up for the first foot into the house. No dripping notices so it hasn't been an issue. Napoleon said they sell an insulated OAK, but I was too cheap to buy that one. I painted my OAK with heat resistant paint. Same as I did with the exhaust pipe. Looks good to me, and a whole lot less money than the pre painted stuff.
Enjoy your new stove. That is the style we would have preferred, but at that time, it was just too much $ for us.
 
Hello

Very nice basement install. My basement install is on an inside wall!! Good Luck!!

For my OAK I purchased a 2" metal flex chimney liner that was expandable to 15 feet with a metal shroud for the outside.

See pics below:
 

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Does your exhaust terminate straight out the wall that close to the window? What does your installation manual say about clearance to a window?
 
Don2222 said:
Hello

Very nice basement install. My basement install is on an inside wall!! Good Luck!!

For my OAK I purchased a 2" metal flex chimney liner that was expandable to 15 feet with a metal shroud for the outside.

See pics below:

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll post some pics of the OAK tonight after I've got it installed and painted.
 
tjnamtiw said:
Does your exhaust terminate straight out the wall that close to the window? What does your installation manual say about clearance to a window?

The manual states that minimum clearance should be 18in with OAK or 48in without.
 
JBiBBs5 said:
tjnamtiw said:
Does your exhaust terminate straight out the wall that close to the window? What does your installation manual say about clearance to a window?

The manual states that minimum clearance should be 18in with OAK or 48in without.

Interesting
48 in (122 cm) Beside/below any door or window that may be opened. (18†(46 cm) if outside
fresh air installed.)

I guess they think with the OAK, there won't be a draw in the window. I would think 18" is very close for CO2 still.
 
Harman has similar installation instructions/requirements.

From the Harman XXV manual: The clearance to a window or door that may be opened must be a minimum of 48" to the side, 48" below the window/door, and 12" above the window/door.1 (with outside air installed, 18†to side or below window/door).
 
GrahamInVa said:
Very nice looking install... Is that a granite slab it's sitting on?

Yes, I know someone who sells granite for a living so I got a great price. Cost about half of what I would have paid for a premade hearth pad.
 
Nice looking stove!! I've been considering the M55 for a while.

I just wish there was a large multi-fuel insert that was built like a tank and had intake air filtering.

St. Croix has the Lincoln with intake air "but" the last time I spoke to the factory rep they had not made an insert.


Stove God's, please send me a 60,000 btu insert with intake air filtering and someone to fill and clean the unit. :) A controll App for my IPhone 4 would be nice. :) Am I asking for too much?????


AR
 
Hitch said:
Harman has similar installation instructions/requirements.

From the Harman XXV manual: The clearance to a window or door that may be opened must be a minimum of 48" to the side, 48" below the window/door, and 12" above the window/door.1 (with outside air installed, 18†to side or below window/door).

I wish it was true for the harman PF100. They don't have any different restrictions with an OAK
 
Wow looks really nice.

I have a M55 Steel being installed next month. I didn't get OAK spec'd out, and now I'm thinking I shoudl have. The installer said it wasn't needed. Now I'm thinking it just may be.
 
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