Chimney designed to burn Creosote

[StihlHead]

I can't think of a way to decrease the risk of what would leave the chimney.

Metal roof.

Metal roof AND Hardie Plank siding here. Under the Hardie siding here I also have the metal skin of the (layered over) mobile home under it as well as metal skirting. Inside the house is all sheet rocked. Chimney is good, but the creosote has been worse this year than last for some reason. I am burning different wood though, mostly birch this year (and doug fir last year). I have cleaned the chimney of creosote twice this year, and I thought that it was building up more becasue the one year seasoned birch was damper than the 2 year seasoned fir I burned last year. Using a pre-EPA Earth Stove, damped down same as last year. It smokes some... but not a lot and breaks up about 10 feet away from the lined metal stack.

 

[greythorn3]

If I ever get the stove in my shop setup I plan to use 1/8" steel pipe wrapped with Roxul and at least 40" from any wood framing. I don't intend on having any chimney fires but if I do I will feel a lot better than if I had black pipe with a little piece of class A going through the roof. Some irrigation pipe and the Roxul is much less than class A and it will not have one seam.

now that sounds like my kinda idea for a chimney!

 

[begreen]

That pipe will have a welded seam, same as Excel class A. Question: won't 2100 temps for 30 minutes bring about a molecular change in the steel pipe?

 

[StihlHead]

At 2100 F. for 30 minutes you will certainly get a chrystal structure (grain) change in steel. The changes and result will depend on the type of steel that it started as (how much carbon and previous heat treatments), the temperature that the steel is heated to and for how long, and most importantly, the time and way that the steel is cooled. At 2100 F. most steel (2% carbon or less) transforms to austenite. If it is then allowed to cool slowly, the steel will revert to its original form if it were not heat treated, tempered or cold worked. Any tempering or cold work properties will be lost by the heating of the steel to that temperature. If you hosed down the steel with water from cherry red hot, it would transform into a different type of steel (martensite) and be harder and more brittle.

 

[Hogwildz]

Hell why not just put a cat in the pipe like and exhaust system.
I am still trying to imagine the weight alone of a solid steel pipe.
Guess dreaming can't hurt.

 

[Treacherous]

Hell why not just put a cat in the pipe like and exhaust system. .

Isn't that how some of the first cat stoves in early 80's worked?

 

[greythorn3]

Hell why not just put a cat in the pipe like and exhaust system.
I am still trying to imagine the weight alone of a solid steel pipe.
Guess dreaming can't hurt.

now this is a good idea! heck thats the only pipe a car runs thru its cat goes from cold to hot. wonder if somehow you could use car cat convertors. could be right off the stovetop to the transition of the steel pipe chimney. wouldnt be to hard to alter the size of the cat to provide enough exhaust, you could almost do a sorta header flange to increase the ammount that can flow thru it by adding in 3 or 4 cat convertors from large displacement vehicles. i like this idea

thanks for mentioning that great idea hogwildz

 

[pen]

I don't think an actual vehicle catalyst is what you are looking for. If you are really interested in something along the lines of an add on cat, perhaps check this out.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/48...ombusters/Catalytic-Add--On-Stove-Damper.html

pen

 

[greythorn3]

man thats cool! i might have to try one. cats get really hot i wonder if its extra thick in that area

 

[pen]

man thats cool! i might have to try one. cats get really hot i wonder if its extra thick in that area

As a side note, the description on that website says

The Catalytic add-on damper is not recommended for outdoor furnaces or EPA approved wood stoves.

I would assume this may be because of the decreased draft that an EPA appliance would experience as a result of having the catalytic damper closed. This may cause any secondary air / burning for that type of unit to be compromised and actually make the stove operate less efficiently. But, that is just a guess.

Additionally, if your stove already has a cat, it would be redundant.

pen

 

[SmokeyCity]

And when it's time to to clean the chimney you just ....start a chimney file and let it burn itself out.

Just iike my setup ... only .. I don't have a steel chimney :=)

Now when will they design a chimney that says "bring on the Creosote!" we can handle it! something that will leave everyone at ease with woodburning. heck maybe even make chimney brushes useless.

why do you have chimneys designed to be so fragile that if there happens to be a FIRE in them your house will burn down? doesnt make much sense to me.

how about some chimneys that are drilling pipe with 1" wall thickness of pure steel. and then wrap a liner around that and another pipe around that? seamless solid cut to length chimney. seems like it would be allot smarter. then youcould do the old timer thing and beat the inside with a loggin chain to get the big chunks out. and use them as firestarters.


our class a now may be ul listed an such, but i have little faith in it and would like a better product.

these manufacturers know the worst thing about a chimney is a chimney fire. so why dont they make the chimneys so they can handle one?

 

[corey21]

I wish you could use those on EPA stove non cat that is.

 

[StihlHead]

I wish you could use those on EPA stove non cat that is.

A non-cat EPA stove would not get much gain from a CAT as the injected air systems in them already burn off most of the gasses and smoke particles. However, if the EPA numbers are accurate for all systems inclusive, all non-cat EPA stoves are 63% efficient (exactly!) and CAT stoves are 72% efficient (also persactly). It seems that you could gain another 9% efficiency, maybe more from the combined effects? Or would they cancel out and you would get less efficiency?

At $200+ a pop they are not cheap. I wonder if my old smoke dragoon would really benefit that much from having one??? The later model Earth Stove 1000c is basically the same model as mine, but it had a CAT in it.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I know people that make kiln chimneys out of irrigation pipe and kaowool sleeves that fit in them. These would not stand up to normal cleaning- you would have to induce a chimney fire on purpose. Some ITC100 would help a bit with this.

 

[corey21]

I wish you could use those on EPA stove non cat that is.

A non-cat EPA stove would not get much gain from a CAT as the injected air systems in them already burn off most of the gasses and smoke particles. However, if the EPA numbers are accurate for all systems inclusive, all non-cat EPA stoves are 63% efficient (exactly!) and CAT stoves are 72% efficient (also persactly). It seems that you could gain another 9% efficiency, maybe more from the combined effects? Or would they cancel out and you would get less efficiency?

At $200+ a pop they are not cheap. I wonder if my old smoke dragoon would really benefit that much from having one??? The later model Earth Stove 1000c is basically the same model as mine, but it had a CAT in it.

Your right they may just cancel each other out but if i could do it i would.