CHIMNEY INSTALL FOR NC-30

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westside

New Member
Mar 3, 2010
31
Indiana
After getting two estimates for chimney install and not being overly impressed with either, i've decided to do the install myself . From what i can gather the local installers generally charge you twice what the material costs then add about half or more of that amount on top for the labor. The estimates i recieved were around $1800.00 to $1900.00 for a through the ceiling install. I've ordered the nessecary 6 inch duratech cathedral ceiling kit along with the class A duratech chimney and double wall dvl stove pipe for around $600.00.

The main reason i decided to do it myself was neither installer wanted to cut through the ceiling joist in order to do a straight up shot on the chimney, instead wanting to install two 45's on the stove pipe. The other reason was both installer only wanted to install 4 foot of class A chimney. From everything i've read on the forums it is best to have a straight shot on the chimney and pipe to lessen creosote build up and the nc-30 manual calls for 15ft. minimum from floor to top of chimney to aquire the correct draw. From floor to ceiling measures 7 ft. so in order to do it right i needed at least 8 ft of class A. The ceiling joists are 24" on center so i plan on building a temporary support brace on each side before cutting the one joist then building the frame for the support box plus any additional bracing thats needed.

The question i have is why did both installers want to use the to 45's and why only 4' of chimney? Is there anything wrong with how i have planned the install? Any tips appreciated.
 
Why would you want to cut a ceiling joist? Depending on how your roof (and house) is put together this could cause a serious structural nightmare. Many older houses were put together in ways that would make one shudder. Not cutting one is an easy way to avoid a nasty call back from a customer. The 45s most likely will not hurt draft.

As far as only 4 ft of Class A, were they looking at using a lot of double wall?

Matt
 
I've been a carpenter for over 30 years and heading off a joist is not that complicated.Yes you need to temporarily support the joist on each side(shoring post or jack)and it is more work.Most local codes require an permit,inspection and an approved drawing for structural
changes.If you don't feel confident doing the work yourself please hire a contractor
I also like a flue to run as strait as possible if not for draft than aesthetics.
 
I did just what you are planning. In order to go straight up I had to cut a rafter. As long as you box it in and your only cutting one, and one isn't missing in close proximity, or you look around and see some funny, non conventional framing it's fine. I took a scrap 4 x 4 I had and spanned two joist (5ft) with 1 2x4 post made on a bottle jack just in case.

Hope this helps.
 
If you have 24 inch joist spacing, I don't understand why you're not simply running the pipe straight up but between the joists. 24" is plenty of space to frame in the pipe.

And yeah, that's been my general experience with contractors or installers. Salters Fireplace is almost in my backyard and they basically quoted me $11k for the stove (Jotul F500) + Chimney.

After grepping around a bit I found out Salters Fireplace is possibly the worst place to buy anything from.
 
I had to put an offset in the flue when I switched from the F400 to the T6. Although at first I was opposed to it, now I hardly notice it.
 

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Thanks guys for the help and reassurance of heading off the rafter between the 48 inch span. Eatenbylimestone and Tiber, the reason i need to cut the rafter is because i'm doing a corner install and in order to get the necessary clearance from the rear corner of the stove the chimney pipe ends up being dead center of a rafter. Since this is a new install i would rather do a little extra work up front on the ceiling and heading off the rafter in order to get a straight shot up with the best possible draft along with easy cleaning and aesthetics as stated by JeffT and Ckarotka.

I guess the reason the installers didn't want to cut the rafter is because they didn't want to assume any liablity or were simply looking for the easiest way to get in , out and paid. I still can't understand why both installers only wanted to use 4 ft. of class A even after i showed them the stove manual stating 15 ft. minimum from floor to top of chimney ( floor to ceiling measures 7 ft 4 inchs) which should require another 71/2 ft of class A chimney. What they said: by installing the outside air kit the 4 ft. chimney would provide plenty of draft and if not they could always come back and install another section of chimney for an additional cost.
What i heard was: we are trying to install this as cheaply as possible and hey if it don't work right , we'll come out and charge you some more to do it right the second time.

Begreen , beautiful stove and nice set up. If i already had an exsisting chimney I would have been more than happy with the two 45's but the wife didn't really approve of the idea , since it's a new install i figured i bout as well do it right the first time since we plan on living here for a long time. At least i still have plenty of time to get it all set up before next heating season rolls around .
 
Sounds like your ready to tackle this project.If your not up on the basic constuction method's please do some carpentry research.Loads of info on line or the library.
 
Finally got the chimney install finished and eveything turned out great. Ended up double bracing the ceiling joists on each side then heading off the one we had to cut , had to cut a little bigger area of drywall from the ceiling to get in to the work area , so i guess my buddy that does drywall will have something to do .
 

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Very nice installation.

Here's your shirt.
 

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Sweet. The installation looks great. Nice job.
 
tiber said:
If you have 24 inch joist spacing, I don't understand why you're not simply running the pipe straight up but between the joists. 24" is plenty of space to frame in the pipe.

And yeah, that's been my general experience with contractors or installers. Salters Fireplace is almost in my backyard and they basically quoted me $11k for the stove (Jotul F500) + Chimney.

After grepping around a bit I found out Salters Fireplace is possibly the worst place to buy anything from.

Pardon me. Did you say $11,000 eleven thousand dollars to have a stove installed? Just out of morbid curiosity, What did that include? I just HAVE to know
 
Franks said:
tiber said:
If you have 24 inch joist spacing, I don't understand why you're not simply running the pipe straight up but between the joists. 24" is plenty of space to frame in the pipe.

And yeah, that's been my general experience with contractors or installers. Salters Fireplace is almost in my backyard and they basically quoted me $11k for the stove (Jotul F500) + Chimney.

After grepping around a bit I found out Salters Fireplace is possibly the worst place to buy anything from.

Pardon me. Did you say $11,000 eleven thousand dollars to have a stove installed? Just out of morbid curiosity, What did that include? I just HAVE to know
I know what it didn't include,LUBE.
 
JeffT said:
Franks said:
tiber said:
If you have 24 inch joist spacing, I don't understand why you're not simply running the pipe straight up but between the joists. 24" is plenty of space to frame in the pipe.

And yeah, that's been my general experience with contractors or installers. Salters Fireplace is almost in my backyard and they basically quoted me $11k for the stove (Jotul F500) + Chimney.

After grepping around a bit I found out Salters Fireplace is possibly the worst place to buy anything from.

Pardon me. Did you say $11,000 eleven thousand dollars to have a stove installed? Just out of morbid curiosity, What did that include? I just HAVE to know
I know what it didn't include,LUBE.

Maybe some high dollar graphite stuff at that price.. but I agree, I would like to know what was the actual work quoted.

But 11k may have included an involved hearth build up? or some other construction costs? I don't know what it would have cost to pay someone to research what was needed and then do my install.. would not have been cheap I bet.
 
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