Chimney maximum height?

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MountainStoveGuy said:
Good question BB, here is what comes to my mind.

what about cleaning the chimney? you would have to remove the damper to get the brush all the way down, if you dont, the damper could get shut accidently by the brush, it would just be a pain. You would have to pull the insert and disconnect the liner every time you want to mess with it, including cleaning it.

Top or bottom they have to be removed for brushing the chimney. At least if it was mounted up top in the liner at the flashing it would be a no brainer to take it out for cleaning the chimney. Easier than getting a lot of chimney caps off. If would be more prone to creosote buildup up top but then the chimney cap is a creosote factory too and I doubt that a chimney fire has ever originated thirty or forty feet from the fire box.

Also, if one has to be installed I would darn sure rather it be supported by holes through the flashing than the walls of a .005 liner.
 
Thats exactly where chimney fires originate, Most creosote formation is in the last third of the chimney pipe.
Your sugestion on having the damper up top is a good one, if i were to put one in thats where i would put it. I still wouldnt recomend it, based on the manufacture says its a no no, even though the dealer says its ok, in the case that there is a problem it will be up to the dealerto fix it with no manufacture support. That usually doesnt go over very well.
 
OK. I'm checking out of this one. I was just curious.
 
BrotherBart said:
MountainStoveGuy said:
Good question BB, here is what comes to my mind.

I doubt that a chimney fire has ever originated thirty or forty feet from the fire box.


They usually don't originate there, BB, but the ones I've seen start at the firebox and work their way up the stack until they eventually hit the creosote motherlode. Then you see some sparks fly.

BTW, just as a point of information, I have an 8" damper on my boiler which I use all the time, but it's located before the cleanout tee so that it's not in the way when the time comes to run a brush up the stack.
 
What about a motorized damper top or bottom controledby motor opening x amount many oil burners have them ina 6" connector pipe
 
JohnS said:
I'm about to make a decision on whether to go with the non-cat or cat unit (the dealer will support a non-cat if I watch temps closely and don't overburn it), I have a few final questions regarding a damper.

1. As this is an insert, if I insert a damper into the pipe during installation, is there any way to clean the damper without removing the stove? The dealer recommends not installing a damper into the line because it will not be possible to clean the damper.

2. A turn damper (is this simply a manually controlled damper?) and a barometric damper were both mentioned in some of the threads. I'm assuming I'd have to remove the insert from my fireplace to adjust these dampers, especially a turn damper?

3. If I install this unit without dampers as suggested by the dealer, and the stove continually draws too much, would adding a couple 45 degree turns later on decrease my draft?

John S.

What is the inside diameter of your chimney? Does it have a clay liner already inside in good shape? What about a direct connect? Since you have such a tall chimney any stove may draft good even if the chimney diameter is larger than the stoves flue collar?
 
I have a clay flue liner that has a 9 1/4" x 12 1/2" inside diameter. It's a newer house, and the flue is in perfect shape.
 
JohnS said:
I have a clay flue liner that has a 9 1/4" x 12 1/2" inside diameter. It's a newer house, and the flue is in perfect shape.

Ask your dealer if that size flue meets the maximum diameter flue size for the stove you are looking at. A direct connect to the flue may work, since the chimney is so tall. And It would save alot of money.
 
Code wise the only direct connect to that size chimney that has a chance of working is from an 8" flue collar
if an outside exposed chimney evenit is too large for even *" inter chimney code wise it would be ok
You must have a rather large fire place opening, for the mason to have used a modular clay liner, instead of the conventional 12 /12

The croos-sectionar area of that flue is more than 200% larger than code will allow for a 6" flue collar

There is another way to look at it besides stove specs look at the liner manufacture's specs What if you used 6.5" diameter liner would that add to the supported height? The stove manufacture claim a height according to using 6" but what if 6.5 is used and the height is supported by the liner manufacturer. Check out liner manufacture's specs . Is there any way you can place an in line damper in the connector pipe if needed?
 
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