Chimney pipe connector questions

[DoubleB]

The insurance company-required "professionals" installed my Tundra furnace last week. What a circus.

As one example, they're on their third attempt at connecting the furnace to the chimney thimble according to the furnace manufacturer's specifications. By this point, they are almost there, except for the parts about "galvanized pipe shall not be used; painted black pipe shall be used" and about "male ends shall point towards the furnace".

I have found some threads about the dangers of galvanized, such as

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/dangers-of-using-galvanized-stove-pipe/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/toxic-fumes-please-read.28885/

as well as about male ends pointing downward

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/creosote-leaking-from-new-stove.118236/

I previously had a chimney sweep install a SS liner and thimble. We played phone tag, and his voicemail said that galvanized is ok for the chimney connector as long as it is 24 gauge or thicker, and that painted black is galvanized anyways. The furnace installer said his sources also indicated that painted black is galvanized underneath.

The furnace installer also showed me that the thimble is the slightly larger diameter female end, so he has to put a male into it, contrary to the male pointing down.

So does anyone know the story on if there is ungalvanized black pipe?

Does anyone know if thimbles are usually the female end, and the best way to connect to them?

 

[hobbyheater]

Insurance companies, ugh!

Put this into the chimney thimble and your male ends will point down. Comes in 6", 7", and 8"!

http://www.efireplacestore.com/fsd-bm0049.html


My choice would have been to use double wall smoke pipe with a stainless steel inner pipe. The double wall also keeps your flue warmer so less creosote build up.

 

[brenndatomu]

Black stove pipe is not galvanized unless someone painted it. I have never seen where it could be bought that way...
Sounds like you really are dealing with clowns

 

[DoubleB]

Ok, based on both replies, it sounds like if I just buy the black pipe commonly available, I don't have the galvanized concern? I think I can get the connector segment up to snuff then.

The other main problem has been the new ductwork. I wanted it a certain way, was abundantly clear about that way, and the hvac business owner and customer rep agreed. I get home from work and the technicians had installed something totally different, had supply runs with a downhill slope instead of up, had supply ducts contacting combustibles, etc. In the technician's partial defense, the owner and rep never told them the plan either. The owner's response to these problems has been to try to explain reasons why it will work anyways as-is. He doesn't seem to accept that I agreed specifically to their original plan because it made the most sense to me, not something else. Hence, no payment yet.

That's not to mention removing the old oil tank. It came out just fine. Trying to prevent these guys from damaging my house was the problem. Three separate oil spills, a broken stair tread, and who knows what else if I hadn't raced home from work to provide oversight and some basic direction. Bulls in a china shop.

The thing that gets me most is the clear evidence that I could have done this better, kept my money, and I care more about my house and safety than either the insurance company or the contractor, yet the insurance company requires me to pay a contractor to do it. I called about 40 Hvac/sheetmetal shops, of which 6 were willing to come take a look, but only this one was interested in doing the job. Lowest common denominator society it seems.

Ok, end rant. Sometimes it's a curse being an engineer. My wife tells me I'm actually a nice and reasonable guy (with high expectations).

 

[STIHLY DAN]

I don't know about the engineer thing, for I have dealt with some real humdingers. Sounds like a company to run from, how the hell does the guy that goes to the site not talk to his guys. Point out manufacturers specs and local code when the owner tries to say it will work anyway.

 

[JRHAWK9]

Is this a certified stove & fireplace business?? They should have no issues doing what you need to have done. I just installed a Kuuma this summer and my insurance required the same thing. I had a local certified stove & fireplace company run a brand new 32'+ Excel chimney on the inside of the house. They also hooked up the Kuuma to the chimney with Excel stove pipe. Sounds like who you called are not even certified to do what your asking them to do.

 

[hobbyheater]

I had a local certified stove & fireplace company run a brand new 32'+ Excel chimney on them to do.
]

Nice looking install!

 

[NE WOOD BURNER]

Is that OSB on the floor?

 

[JRHAWK9]

Is that OSB on the floor?

Referring to me? There's OSB on top of the TGI joists but the basement floor is all concrete.

 

[NE WOOD BURNER]

Oh good. the floor was fuzzy on my screen in the pic. Concrete is good.

 

[JRHAWK9]

BTW, OP, the place that connected mine told me it's CODE to have the male end (crimped end) slid into the female end and have it positioned so the female end is pointing up (crimped end pointing down). This is to allow any condensation or creosote which may form to run back into the furnace and not on the outside of the stove pipe, which will happen if you position it the other way, which will be a fire hazard. My Kuuma owners manual states this same thing.

 

[DoubleB]

JrHawk, I believe I recall from a far distant thread the people you used for the install, with locations in Fitchburg and Baraboo. I'll try to give them a call tomorrow with some questions I have, just for a sanity check. Thanks!

 

[JRHAWK9]

JrHawk, I believe I recall from a far distant thread the people you used for the install, with locations in Fitchburg and Baraboo. I'll try to give them a call tomorrow with some questions I have, just for a sanity check. Thanks!

I actually used Center Stove & Fireplace out of Richland Center. They installed the complete chimney and also connected the furnace to the chimney. Couldn't be happier with the job they did.

 

[DoubleB]

Silly me. I called the other place earlier today to educate me about a couple questions, but they didn't want to comment. Fair enough I suppose.

I can make do with the ductwork the installers did, but I might just hire someone better to connect the chimney, so I can have the peace of mind.

Thanks.

 

[JRHAWK9]

yeah, if it was Top Hat, they don't impress me at all and I'm being nice.

 

[Woodfarmer1]

Another point to consider, typical furnace manufactures spec for duct work is 6" for the first 6' clearance from combustibles.