Does anyone have any experience with flashing a class A chimney thru a metal roof ? Are there any special flashing made for this procedure ?
Class A chimney pipe thru a metal roof ?
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I have a metal roof, and as far as I know the installers had no trouble bringing the Class A through the roof and flashing things. I've not been up there to check things about, but I'm by no means a carpenter, so I'd have no idea what to look for, really.
We had the same problem just last winter when we purchased our stove. We were told that we would have to have something fabricated or that we could go with the Selkirk Flashing Boot System. It's rather expensive for flashing but we loved it and it's soooo easy to install. it's made especially for metal roofs like yours and mine.
That kit Prada posted sure looks to be the answer!
I didn't realize they made it like that so I recently used a standard flashing and it worked out pretty slick after a construction expert [on a different forum] explained his method; somehow I think I wound up with more steps, but:
I put the pipe through the tin first, dropped on the flashing and marked the corners. Pipe back out, flashing in place, draw around the inside, and halfway up put a short mark at each side. Now, draw a line across the center between the two side marks. Depending upon how you angled the marker, above this line you may need to draw your "inside drawing" about 1/2" larger to accomodate the outside of the flashing; don't increase the size beneath the line.
Now grab your angle grinder and cut around the marked hole. Also cut the lines. Slide the flashing through the lines under the metal, pipe back through, screw it down. A little caulk across the horizontal lines and at the bottom [I cut lower than I'd liked, and had to overkill this], and you're ready to toss on the storm collar, additional sections or supports if needed and the cap. No need to caulk inperections above the lines, the flashing is running underneath the metal above it and above the metal below it.
No guarantees my writing makes sense, or that I didn't miss a step, but not that hard of a job.
I didn't realize they made it like that so I recently used a standard flashing and it worked out pretty slick after a construction expert [on a different forum] explained his method; somehow I think I wound up with more steps, but:
I put the pipe through the tin first, dropped on the flashing and marked the corners. Pipe back out, flashing in place, draw around the inside, and halfway up put a short mark at each side. Now, draw a line across the center between the two side marks. Depending upon how you angled the marker, above this line you may need to draw your "inside drawing" about 1/2" larger to accomodate the outside of the flashing; don't increase the size beneath the line.
Now grab your angle grinder and cut around the marked hole. Also cut the lines. Slide the flashing through the lines under the metal, pipe back through, screw it down. A little caulk across the horizontal lines and at the bottom [I cut lower than I'd liked, and had to overkill this], and you're ready to toss on the storm collar, additional sections or supports if needed and the cap. No need to caulk inperections above the lines, the flashing is running underneath the metal above it and above the metal below it.
No guarantees my writing makes sense, or that I didn't miss a step, but not that hard of a job.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Grainger sells a silicone based boot made for stove piping. Another member here used it with great success.
ICY99
New Member
I had a class A installed through my metal roof with the standard flashing. In my case it was possible because the chimney penetrates very close to the peak and the upper edge of the flashing was able to be tucked under the ridge cap. Worked fine. You could also do that on a lower part of the roof as long as a piece of roofing overlaps the top edge of the flashing. A cricket would add protection as well.
Being a carpenter I've done this many of times, you dont need to spend that much money to accomplish this. All you need is the rubber boot and some silicone. I generaly cut the hole in the steel rather tight on the pipe to lock it in place. Then I cut the rubber
flasher in the top to desired opening, a little on the snug side. Then I slide the flasher down the pipe till it makes contact with
the roof. The flasher has a lead ring at the base, I,ll mould this ring to the roofing, trace around the lead ring, slightly raise
back up the pipe lay a good bead of silicone just inside the traced line slide the flasher back down the pipe fasten it down with
1-1/2" woodgrip screws. You want to have a little silicone to squeeze out to ensure proper seal, you'll be good as gold. I dont
think this flasher should cost you any more than $80.00, it looks like the the one mentioned above. Good luck!!
flasher in the top to desired opening, a little on the snug side. Then I slide the flasher down the pipe till it makes contact with
the roof. The flasher has a lead ring at the base, I,ll mould this ring to the roofing, trace around the lead ring, slightly raise
back up the pipe lay a good bead of silicone just inside the traced line slide the flasher back down the pipe fasten it down with
1-1/2" woodgrip screws. You want to have a little silicone to squeeze out to ensure proper seal, you'll be good as gold. I dont
think this flasher should cost you any more than $80.00, it looks like the the one mentioned above. Good luck!!
cll said:
Menards (similar to HomeDepot, or Lowes). If I'd looked harder perhaps I would have found one of the other options noted above, but I think it was $30 something and a couple bucks for the storm collar - not too bad though I don't think as simple as the other options. Also, I saw nothing in the Selkirk brochure warning about all of my wife's pictures drawing particular attention to exposed skin between my coat and pants....
Prada said:HI spiffy.....The Kit is truly the easiest answer but it sure sounds like you fabricated something that worked well too! Good for you!
Thanks Prada! I can't claim inovating that solution myself, but we do tend to make things work one way or another around here.
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