Classic vs any gasser

[woodywoodchucker]

I got questions.I have been running a CB 5036 for 3 years now. Burning green wet wood is an option. I know that when I burn seasoned split wood that the smoke is minimal, wood useage is less.So I guess my question is if I have 10 cord of seasoned wood how much wood will be left at the end of the season.I burn 10 now, some seasoned and most just stuff I pick up around for free.About 80% hard wood.I cant help but to believe that it maybe be on par with any gasser model.I have been told that I may burn at little as 6 cord with a gasser.Of couse in order to run the gasser you got to make sure that the stars are all lined up just so and vacuum the dust of the wood or something like that.Now as it stands with woody if a tree falls down its heat regaurdless of how it falls.

 

[Frozen Canuck]

Sounds like your asking others to predict your heatload & therefore your wood usage, hard at best to even give a reasonable guess as temp as well as many other factors are variables (unknown).

AFA which unit is more eff conventional OWB or many of the gassers on the board, the gassers win that one. Laws of physics & thermodynamics back that up.

Can't recall any of the members with OWB's posting figures that had their OWB approaching anything near 40%, most gassers get 2x that regularly.

Perhaps you could read a little more on the operation of these gassers here? Plenty of former OWB owners here that now operate gassers can give you both sides of the story.

 

[maple1]

You can burn the same wood you are burning now with a gasser - you just have to leave more time between when you cut it and when you burn it. If you can't manage things to accomplish that, sounds like you should just keep using the smoke dragon even if you do burn more wood - as it sounds like you have your mind made up anyway.

 

[woodywoodchucker]

I know my wood useage, 10 cord. The house is a 28x44 cape with half of the house valted, 18 ' to the ceiling. Raidant in the basement and first floor, base board upsrairs, about 30 windows built 3 years ago. The house is 72* all the time.
I dont know about the whole % thing but I burn 10 [actual] cord of junk wood now.Not sure how we figure 6 cord[claimed by a salesman] could be 80% EFF while the boiler Im useing now couldnt posible be in the 40% range. I guess its new math I been hearing about.
Doesnt seem to be any shortage of stuff to read about on here about the gass-a-fires on here.I tend to notice more problems that props though, with all the storage tanks and pressurized systems and fluids that some need. I just wonder if some of the bashing doesnt come from jeliousy and propgander.

 

[muleman51]

This is the same question I keep asking myself I still am not quite sure myself which is better. I have had both and am ready for another new boiler. With the old Aqua therm it was just cut and burn, yes it burned more wood, but it was basically just cut and burn. I f I got ahead and had dry wood all the better. With my Adobe, granted probably not the best gassifier design out there, it does burn less wood however I have to try and stay at least a year ahead. The wood has to cut and split to half the size or less than before, the wood has to be piled and dried then then picked up again and stacked in the boiler room to use. With all the extra handling and work I'm not sure a gassifier is worth it if my time and energy are worth anything. Just my two cents worth.

 

[stee6043]

The same poll on a forum more devoted to traditional OWB's will likely provide an entirely different result than this poll here. Spend an hour reading here and I suspect you'll get an idea of what most folks on this site believe is "better" and why. Everyone has their own opinion.

I can burn green wet wood in my gasser just like you. I can also pour a gallon of fresh water on top of my fire every time I load the boiler. I personally choose to do neither, seems like a waste of a perfectly good gallon of water.

 

[woodsmaster]

I've never owned a outdoor smoke dragon, but I've seen enough up close to Know that a gasser is way more efficient.
The outdoor versions I've seen spew smoke and heat waves from the chimney and if you touch the pipe your going to get burnt.
The gassers burn clean and you can touch the chimney pipe for a couple of seconds without getting burnt. There is
more work in processing wood but less to process or buy.

 

[woodywoodchucker]

This is the same question I keep asking myself I still am not quite sure myself which is better. I have had both and am ready for another new boiler. With the old Aqua therm it was just cut and burn, yes it burned more wood, but it was basically just cut and burn. I f I got ahead and had dry wood all the better. With my Adobe, granted probably not the best gassifier design out there, it does burn less wood however I have to try and stay at least a year ahead. The wood has to cut and split to half the size or less than before, the wood has to be piled and dried then then picked up again and stacked in the boiler room to use. With all the extra handling and work I'm not sure a gassifier is worth it if my time and energy are worth anything. Just my two cents worth.

And I guess thats the piont Im trying to make. Im fially clossing in on the loose ends on my house and will have time to get a year ahead on my wood collecting.I have had to split some wood this season and it burn so much better.This coming year Ill have it all split if over 6'' and in a wood shed.Then Ill know the difference.

 

[ihookem]

My neighbor has a5036 too. He burns 8 cords a year. I have an EKO 25. I burn 4 cords at best. We have different houses almost the same size. His is a 2 story loft, mine a ranch with 9' ceilings. I can tel ya lots os times I wish I'd gone with a CB 4036. I didn't cause the eco was 2,500 dollars cheaper after federal rebate. I spent 10 hours splitting wood into little bitty splits. Sick of splitting wood 18" long into 4x4's. when I can put 12" logs 2' long in a CB 4036. Sure I use half the wood but it's very boring splitting all the time. Then if it gets wet it doesn't gassify properly and that really hurts heat output. Not from the extra moisture but the gassification is what gets you the efficiency. All the work splitting, stacking, cutting 18" long goes out the door if it ain't dry enough. You already have the boiler. Your best bet is to just make sure your wood is dry.

 

[martyinmi]

woody,
You will burn much less wood with an OWB gasser- in my case about 40% less than with my conventional one, which was more efficient than the one you currently use. You could expect about a 45% reduction in wood usage. You won't find very many, if any, supporters of conventional OWB's on this site. You will find many that will support your decision should it be to buy a gasifier, however, they would prefer you buy a European style indoor gasifier as opposed to an outdoor model. Even though you are simply trying to free yourself from petroleum based heating like everyone else on this site, most on this site appear to presuppose that your conventional OWB is inherently evil because it will smoke excessively if not operated correctly. You are more likely than not to read derogatory "Smoke Dragon" remarks almost any time you visit here looking for advise, when in reality you ought to be reading enthusiastic, educated instruction on how create less pollution while at the same time obtaining more BTU's with reduced wood consumption. You will, however, get a huge thumbs up from me should you decide to purchase an OWB gasifier. You will love it, and so will your neighbors.

muleman,
It sounds like you are a perfect candidate for an OWB gasser. The more modern designs on the market will burn wood at 40% moisture and still not smoke. I was bored one weekend and did that experiment myself. The efficiency, however, suffers a lot. I've not heard of anyone yet that has effectively incorporated one in with a mass storage system, other than for DHW summertime use.

 

[2.beans]

just because it doesn't smoke doesn't mean its burning efficient. i have burned brush fires that don't smoke. dry wood can go right out the chimney just as well as green wood.

 

[muleman51]

martyinmi I have a great outdoor boiler room with my 1000 gallon storage in it, So I can use any indoor gasser. Right now I leaning toward an Empyre Elite or a Woodmaster flex fuel just because there are dealers somewhat handy. I got burned pretty bad on the last one buying off the net. I'm not sure if the empyre elite is quite big enough though. I batch burn now all the time with a timer. Too many options not enough time or money. Jim

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

I know my wood useage, 10 cord. The house is a 28x44 cape with half of the house valted, 18 ' to the ceiling. Raidant in the basement and first floor, base board upsrairs, about 30 windows built 3 years ago. The house is 72* all the time.
I dont know about the whole % thing but I burn 10 [actual] cord of junk wood now.Not sure how we figure 6 cord[claimed by a salesman] could be 80% EFF while the boiler Im useing now couldnt posible be in the 40% range. I guess its new math I been hearing about.
Doesnt seem to be any shortage of stuff to read about on here about the gass-a-fires on here.I tend to notice more problems that props though, with all the storage tanks and pressurized systems and fluids that some need. I just wonder if some of the bashing doesnt come from jeliousy and propgander.

Thats true, there isn't a day goes by that I don't wish I had plumes of carcinogenic smoke pouring out of my chimney. //// The easy way out is probably to chuck green wood in a smoke dragon, maybe an occasional deer carcass for good measure.///I think you are just pulling our collective leg here, Randy

 

[ihookem]

Singedeyebrows, you can also throw in a dead calf and some garbage if ya want. Anyway, OP has a nice CB 5036. The unit is huge. I wonder out loud why no one uses storage a CB 5036. Run it wide open with 1,000 gal of storage. No idle time and run it hot. Should bring up efficiency.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

Singedeyebrows, you can also throw in a dead calf and some garbage if ya want. Anyway, OP has a nice CB 5036. The unit is huge. I wonder out loud why no one uses storage a CB 5036. Run it wide open with 1,000 gal of storage. No idle time and run it hot. Should bring up efficiency.

Can I throw in an old tire too? I wouldn't want you to be overly jealous with your gasser. Ditto on letting her rip with storage, Randy

 

[Gasifier]

I got questions.I have been running a CB 5036 for 3 years now. Burning green wet wood is an option. I know that when I burn seasoned split wood that the smoke is minimal, wood useage is less.So I guess my question is if I have 10 cord of seasoned wood how much wood will be left at the end of the season.I burn 10 now, some seasoned and most just stuff I pick up around for free.About 80% hard wood.I cant help but to believe that it maybe be on par with any gasser model.I have been told that I may burn at little as 6 cord with a gasser.Of couse in order to run the gasser you got to make sure that the stars are all lined up just so and vacuum the dust of the wood or something like that.Now as it stands with woody if a tree falls down its heat regaurdless of how it falls.

I do not believe the 5036 would be on par with a good gasser and dry wood burning through it. Not bashing your boiler. I am glad you are burning wood rather than oil! Good for you! The manufacturer of my gasser recommends between 20-30% moisture content. I do not burn wood that is 30% moisture content. The manufacturer also recommends storage is not needed. I use storage. I do not have to align the stars to run my gasser. I load it twice a day, three times if it is colder. I do not have to split my wood into small splits. The Wood Gun will burn large ones. Very large ones. But, you have a better chance of good gassification(best efficiency) with smaller splits. And if you are splitting your wood with a hydraulic splitter, it won't take you that much longer to split it a little smaller. And if you are burning even 1/3 more wood, larger splits, in a OWB, it probably equals out as far as time goes. Also depends on what type of wood you are burning. But there are different types of gassers, and many different things you can do with them to make them more efficient, or simpler to run. It all depends on what you want, and what type of wood burner you want to be. Now if you like the boiler you have, and you just get ahead on your wood supply by a full year, two would be better, you will always be burning dry wood through it. And that boiler you have now will work better for you. But I am glad you are burning wood. No matter what you burn your wood through, getting a year or two ahead on your wood supply is half the battle. For lack of a better term. So you are always burning dry wood.

 

[mikefrommaine]

The main reason I went with a gasser?

So I could install it in my basement.

Currently it's 2* F, -11 windchill. 6" of ice/snow outside. And I just loaded my boiler in my bare feet.

House is 72 and I haven't burned oil since the gasser went online.

Due to the shape and topography of my lot and current setback requirements for an OWB I would have had to place an OWB 200' from my house. Wouldn't have worked for me.

 

[barkeatr]

i HAD a 3642 central boiler OWB. It burned up, along with the building it was in due to a creasote laden chimney fire. it was a double wall chimney failed from to many burn outs. Luckily my insurance kicked in. With the insurance money i got a profab 200 gasser, mainly because i wanted to and also because NYS was soon to outlaw the OWB. I cut my own wood for the most part so getting a year ahead has been tricky. SIncei cut my own wood and I dont break any speed records (as i extract wood from my sugar bush like a brain surgeon)---cutting 40% less saves me considerable time, and causes me to say the gasser is worth it. Also, i like knowing I burning natures resources as efficiently as is currently possible. I find that the gasser is much more even to control, steadier temperatures. maintainance and learning curve is for sure higher, so its not for everyone, but the time saved is still considerable with less wood consumption.

 

[woodywoodchucker]

i HAD a 3642 central boiler OWB. It burned up, along with the building it was in due to a creasote laden chimney fire. it was a double wall chimney failed from to many burn outs. Luckily my insurance kicked in. With the insurance money i got a profab 200 gasser, mainly because i wanted to and also because NYS was soon to outlaw the OWB. I cut my own wood for the most part so getting a year ahead has been tricky. SIncei cut my own wood and I dont break any speed records (as i extract wood from my sugar bush like a brain surgeon)---cutting 40% less saves me considerable time, and causes me to say the gasser is worth it. Also, i like knowing I burning natures resources as efficiently as is currently possible. I find that the gasser is much more even to control, steadier temperatures. maintainance and learning curve is for sure higher, so its not for everyone, but the time saved is still considerable with less wood consumption.

I check my stack yearly and never see anything in there.The first year I ran the thing I did see a chimny fire just once and never again. How often do these stack wear out?I wont to build a wood shed around my wood furnace and store my wood inside.

 

[barkeatr]

im NOT SURE of the lifetime of the double wall chimney. Note i was incorrectly cleaning mine with a SS brush also. After i built a shed around it i cleaned it every couple of months. not sure how that much creasote built up in 2 months or if the chimney just failed. Note that i had at least 4 full on chimney fires in my OWB...i expect that is what did it. why did I have so much creasote? im guessint 3-4 years of cutting down pine trees and throwing them in within a few days? I was a bad man then. I have a building around my gasser now ( this outdoor is rated for indoor use) and I have exceeded code in all areas around the chimney..and verified the correct class of chimney..( cant remember exact class by memory but there are several different ratings) and i check it monthly...

 

[willworkforwood]

I got questions.I have been running a CB 5036 for 3 years now. Burning green wet wood is an option. I know that when I burn seasoned split wood that the smoke is minimal, wood useage is less.So I guess my question is if I have 10 cord of seasoned wood how much wood will be left at the end of the season.I burn 10 now, some seasoned and most just stuff I pick up around for free.About 80% hard wood.I cant help but to believe that it maybe be on par with any gasser model.I have been told that I may burn at little as 6 cord with a gasser.Of couse in order to run the gasser you got to make sure that the stars are all lined up just so and vacuum the dust of the wood or something like that.Now as it stands with woody if a tree falls down its heat regaurdless of how it falls.

The most important thing is what you said at the beginning - you have learned that seasoned wood produces much less smoke and wood usage goes down as well. Many OWB owners either don't know that, or don't care if they do know. And personally, it doesn't matter to me if it's an OWB, IWB, woodstove, or fireplace - they're all on my s**t list if smoke is spewing out on a regular basis. Based on what you said, it sounds like all you need to do is put a bit more time into collecting and seasoning your firewood. What works for me is to do a little bit (half an hour or so) each day. Most other folks do less frequent, more concentrated efforts. Chose whatever whatever works best for you - get and stay a year ahead, and I'll be glad to be your next door neighbor ;-P.

 

[DaBackBurner]

More efficiency=dryer wood. More efficiency=storage(usually). Try some storage on that puppy and I can only imagine the difference it would make with a wide open burn, possibly less frequent trips in the snow you'll have to make, less smoke it will produce etc. Thermodynamics and combustion efficiency come into mind, so if the question is one of efficiency rather than better (which is hard to quantify) thermodynamics and pyrolysis or the means of extracting energy from biomass and using it environmentally responsibly...win.
-Bob

 

[goosegunner]

More efficiency=dryer wood. More efficiency=storage(usually). Try some storage on that puppy and I can only imagine the difference it would make with a wide open burn, possibly less frequent trips in the snow you'll have to make, less smoke it will produce etc. Thermodynamics and combustion efficiency come into mind, so if the question is one of efficiency rather than better (which is hard to quantify) thermodynamics and pyrolysis or the means of extracting energy from biomass and using it environmentally responsibly...win.
-Bob

With a typical owb install I am not sure how you would run with any significant amount of storage. With 20 degree high daytime temps my boiler runs 3-4 hours a day. The problem with OWB would be freezing temps or lines coming up from the ground. If you circulate water it would basically be a radiator heat the great outdoors.

As far as wood use, I weighed a round of cherry. It was 17 inches long and 13" diameter. It weighed 69.46 lbs. My gasifier on the same 20 degree high and 10 degree low would need about 1.5 that weight of wood for 24 hours heating 2850 sq ft.

Gg

 

[woodywoodchucker]

Im certain that the storage of wood is vary important and now that Im raping up on the house building i plan on building a wood shed and housing 6 cord of wood in the building with the furnace. The furnace will season a bit and that will help as well.I have no neighbors with in a 1/4 mile and burn most trees that are down as I have 60 acres to clean up, also I do faul select trees that are deseced or a hinderance.

 

[woodsmaster]

I think the classic wins if you have lots of wood that's hard to split, cut, and process in general. Just throw it in
and forget it. It would work great for someone with a tree service.