Clydesdale baffle removal - any ideas to make is easier?

SteveT Posted By SteveT, Jan 17, 2010 at 7:09 PM

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  1. SteveT

    SteveT
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    May 21, 2008
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    Since I am using a mix of BioBricks and "sorta seasoned" oak I figured a mid-season flue cleaning was in order. By the way, "sorta seasoned" is cut/split/stacked for just over one year - I am convinced that the folks that say two years are needed for oak are correct.

    I bought a Sooteater and went at it. Great product and great results. I removed a couple of cups of ash and maybe a quart or two of very powdery creosote.

    The Sooteater was very impressive but the total chore was a PITA. Dropping the baffle wasn't too bad but for the life of me I couldn't get it out of the stove. I just let it sit on the bottom of the firebox. Getting the baffle back in place was another major chore -- it isn't too heavy but wrestling it into place was difficult. It seems that there must be a trick or two that I just didn't figure out.

    Anyone out there with helpful hints on removal and replacing Morgan/Clydesdale baffle assemblies?

    Thanks.
     
  2. kenwit

    kenwit
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    Jan 2, 2010
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    I installed my Clydesdale yeterday. I had to remove the baffle to hook up the liner from the inside. What a battle. I thought I was going to break something. What finally worked for me was. After lifting the back and pulling slightly foward I lowered the right side, raised the left and angled the left side out first. Easier said then done. Getting it back in was no picnic either. I'm sure the next time will go smoother, but it seems it could have been designed better. How do like the unit?
     
  3. SteveT

    SteveT
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    May 21, 2008
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    I am very pleased with the Clydesdale, the difficulty of the baffle remove/replace notwithstanding.
     
  4. mikeszak

    mikeszak
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    Nov 8, 2010
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    the baffle in the Clydesdale is very easy to remove if you know how to do it. i removed mine in less than 5 minutes, here is how.
    1. remove the 3 metal brackets and the soapstones against the rear and sides of the firebox.
    2 remove the 2 allen screws in the rear of the firebox. they are about 3/4 of the way up and about a foot apart.
    3 gently lift the front of the baffle making sure NOT TO TOUCH ceramic board. the cast iron and burntubes are strong enough to hold and you do not want to damage the baffle board. the baffle board isn't that fragile but it can snap or crack.
    4 while lifting the front, gently pull the baffle forward. you must support the rear of the baffle or it could "crash" down into your firebox.
    5 gently lower it into the firebox. tilt one side 45 degrees and gently move the baffle out of the stove.
    it should come out VERY EASILY!!!! if you are struggling, you are doing something wrong. if you have to pull or jostle it, you are doing something wrong.
     
  5. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    Nothing wrong with touching the baffle board, it is not dangerous and while somewhat fragile is surprisingly tough.
     
  6. mhrischuk

    mhrischuk
    Guest 2.
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    You mean this thing [​IMG]

    I was a little tricky for me to get the back to drop. It came out easily at just the right angle.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Almost too pretty to burn.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. terpsucka

    terpsucka
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    Dec 4, 2010
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    Thanks mikeszak -- this was extremely helpful. That thing came right out when I did it this way. Any advice on getting it back in easily? I had a heckuva time getting it to sit properly. I can't say exactly what I did, but I finally got it in there after like 1/2 an hour of wrestling with it. It's always been that way with it. At least now I know how to get it OUT in no time!
     
  8. DanCorcoran

    DanCorcoran
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    Jan 5, 2010
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    I had to use my imagination, but those were great pictures!
     
  9. mikeszak

    mikeszak
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    Nov 8, 2010
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    sorry for delayed reply, just saw this. getting it back in is more difficult because of the awkward lifting but it isn't that bad. do the exact opposite of removal, lift the baffle at an angle so that the front is higher than the back. then lift the rear of the baffle to get it level, then slowly lower the "leveled" baffle... it should catch easily. it is nice to have a second person to hand screw the allen screws while you are still supporting it, however if you get it in there correctly, it isn't necessary. hope this helps.
     
  10. Jags

    Jags
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    My guess is that the baffle has been in for about a year and 4 months now.;lol
     
  11. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE
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    Jan 28, 2011
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    There is a nice video on youtube for this

    here

     
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