Clydesdale surround

[basod]

Hello all. Have been reading here for some time and after seeing my brother's new insert and news of tax break I've decided to install insert. My original notion was the Clydesdale, after having my sweep out to check the chimney, he said stay away from soapstone stoves. He also said I didn't need a liner as chimney is in good shape, and didn't need cleaning. The current set up is a steel firebox in fulll masonry surround, ~20' chimney. The fireplace is (after searching to the end of the internet) what was originally a "Brickolator" or heatilator for those that want to debate-I'm need to load software from new camera for pics. I went to local dealer and checked out Lopi Revere stove and started to go ahead with install, -Note dealer confirred with sweep and said don't install liner- i.e directvent. After reading several articles I plan on putting liner in myself. The Lopi won't fit, extension onto hearth violates 16" hearth code. I returned to Clydesdale and now I have conundrum of sorts. The lower vents from brickolator are loser clearances than the Clydesdale surround 48.1". I want this thing to look right, I could deal with partial install and later find some matching brick and close off lower openings. Does the Clydesdale come with a narrower surround?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

epa fireplace inserts require UL1777 rated liners, UL1777 wants the liner to be stainless, and insulated if the masonry chimney is not up to code. (the vast majority are not up tp code due the the air space between the clay liner and the brick, and the type of motar between the joints). Liners also provide the proper amount chimney volume for the appliance.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

the clydsdale is a great stove!, but read the manual, it required a liner i believe. their are two sizes of surrounds, and they are not cutable or modifyable like other pannels because they are suck thick cast iron. which makes them look very nice.
as a travis dealer i know that even though some of thier stoves are approved for direct connect to a masonry liner, the chimney is safer and performs better with a full reline.
daimeter of existing terra cotta flue??

 

[DAKSY]

You should suck it up & go with the full liner.
It'll draft better than a direct connect & should be easier to clean...
Your cast iron surround can be cut but it probably won't look as aesthetically pleasing as the original...
It may take a machine shop to cut it accurately & smoothly & maybe, with the right cutter,
they can radius the cut edges, which can then be repainted with hi-temp stove paint..
The machining will cost WAY more than replacing a few bricks...

 

[basod]

I'm going to go with the liner. There's a kit on the Bay for $399-free shipping. The .014 wall stuff (I guess .007 doubled up). Is this the best liner you can buy? On insulation, I planned on making a custom lower baffle plate and insulating the surround. I think the flue is 8x12". I need to go up top as the steel prefab box is obstructing view. I assume it would be difficult to get 6" insulated liner down the flue.

 

[basod]

OK got some pics loaded. My ladder was long enough when I resided the house, wont reach top of chimney so flue size is still in question. Caught a short break in the rain...-Forecast for your days off 30% chance of rain, 100% at my house. How do you put pics in the thread? I was only able to make them attachments.