Combination Hearth/Anvil

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When I acquired my home in Shingletown, one of the first jobs was replacing the obsolete, used up, burned out monster wood stove. I bought a new Buck Model 81 (for financial reasons) and prepared to install it. The old hearth was too small (not enough hearth in front of the stove door to meet code) and was damaged with many of the tiles cracked or broken. I was going to make the new hearth myself (also for financial reasons) and considered numerous options, including tile, brick and concrete. While considering these options, the words of an old employer replayed in my head; "Go with what you know." Being a recovering machinist, metal is what I know. I drew up my new hearth on AutoCad and faxed it to my favorite steel supplier.

Here's a picture of the finished installation.


I had it sheared from 1/4 in. hot-rolled steel plate (no rust, with the hot-rolled mill scale intact), with all the shearing done from the top side (to create rolled edges).
I cut 1/4 in. Hardiebacker to match the steel plate, then screwed it to the 2x6 T&G subfloor. Using construction adhesive, I glued the steel to the Hardiebacker.
This installation came to the same thickness of the flooring I would be installing. My hearth is flush with the floor, making vacuuming easy, and practically indestructible.
I have split kindling on it and used it for an anvil to set rivets and straighten metal pieces. It had some irregular stains in the mill scale when I got it, and I've added a few more by putting wet snowshoes with aluminum claws on it, but they just add character, there is no rust.

Note the basket of all-natural fire starters to the right.

If you want an indestructible, lifetime hearth, use steel.
 
What R factor do you figure you have with your install versus what R factor does the manufacturer require?

Looks nice but, not knowing your stove specs, I wonder about heat transfer.
 
Shari said:
What R factor do you figure you have with your install versus what R factor does the manufacturer require?

Looks nice but, not knowing your stove specs, I wonder about heat transfer.

There is no downward heat transfer. The stove sits on a metal pedestal about 12 in. high, since heat rises, the hearth never even gets warm. If this was a vertical surface adjacent to the stove, this would be a consideration. The hearth just has to be non-combustible according to local codes.
 
Mr Whoopie, what is that to the right of the stove? And for what its worth, that glass sure is black on the left side.
 
Nice idea. I like it. The others were correct in asking about R value. Steel has very little R value. You must go by the manufacturers specs. What R value does the manufacturer state?
Also I don't think it was a good idea to use glue nor do I think you even needed it. If the plate gets hot, the glue will soften and/or smell.

BTW I also used a steel plate but mine is .100" thick and it's sandwiched between a sheet of micore and a sheet of durock..

Had mine sheered from a template at a place called Fazzio's in Jersey.

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Craig that looks pretty good! I would think the steel would dissipate any heat.. How much did the hearth set you back? You could always paint it if you decide you need a change..

Ray
 
raybonz said:
Craig that looks pretty good! I would think the steel would dissipate any heat.. How much did the hearth set you back? You could always paint it if you decide you need a change..

Ray

I was fortunate, my steel supplier likes me a lot. He didn't charge me anything for it. The piece weighs 275 lbs, at the time it would have cost $1.00/lb including shearing. Looked pretty funny on the roof rack of my Honda Civic Hatchback.
 
Loco Gringo said:
Mr Whoopie, what is that to the right of the stove? And for what its worth, that glass sure is black on the left side.

To the right is a basket full of Ponderosa pine cones, they make really nice fire starters and they are just laying on the ground outside. The glass is black because I rarely can operate the stove hot enough to clean it. The living room is small, so even though the house is in the listed size range for the stove, operating the stove within the efficient burn range makes it too hot to stand.
 
I found the manual for your stove. Looks like you did your homework as all you need is 3/8" non-combustable. As long as the steel doesn't get very warm, the glue should be fine.

Again... nice install.. I like the steel.

http://www.buckstove.com/buckfiles/manuals/Buck-Stove-Model-81-Manual-(WebVersion)-NWC.pdf
 
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