1 Week after install and all is well. Just need a little input on my combustor installation. When I got this unit the combustors were missing so I ordered them and upon installing them they seemed really loose. Found an online diagram of the stove and found out there are 2 metal frames that they go in that are also missing. Off to the hardware store and got som 1/8" flat stock and fab'd them myself (Almost impossible to find parts for this one). Got a pretty snug fit side to side but still has a slight gap on top, maybe 1/16". Is this acceptable or do these things need a perfect seal to operate properly. Haven't had any issues burning, just want it to be right.
Combustor installation
- Thread starter Trktrd
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
pgmr
Feeling the Heat
There is usually a gasket that goes around the catalyst. The gasket will swell up the first time the stove is used and fill in any gaps. You can find it online or at your local stove dealer.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
The 1/16th gap will allow some smoke to get past the cat but I doubt it will make a huge difference. If it works, don't try to fix it further. You'll know if it is working well by the temperature of the stove.
The Cat thermometer is usually hovering between 1000 and 1500 degrees with a moderate load of wood. Don't usually need to feed it for about 3 hours. I've tried loading the stove like some of the pics I've seen here (pretty much packed), But that ended up with uncomfortably high cat temps around 1600 degrees. Does this sound right? BTW I'm using a variety of approximately 18 month old wood. A mix of oak, birch, maple and elm. I know it could be seasoned a bit more but for now the best I can do.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
That birch, maple and elm should be good to burn but I'd hold off on the oak.
The way we load our stove for overnight or long burns is to put a big split or round in the bottom rear of the stove. I like to put a faster burning split in the bottom front (that birch would be good for this) and then fill it with medium to large splits. It will also make a difference on what type of maple you have. Soft maple burns hot and fast while hard maple is good for longer burns. Elm is sort of middle of the road but depends a lot on how it has been split. If it was cut green and split, it ends up all stringy and loose and will burn fast. If it was dead and the bark fallen off, it will burn much better.
Remember that the larger the split, the better it will hold for a longer burn. Rounds work good for this too.
The way we load our stove for overnight or long burns is to put a big split or round in the bottom rear of the stove. I like to put a faster burning split in the bottom front (that birch would be good for this) and then fill it with medium to large splits. It will also make a difference on what type of maple you have. Soft maple burns hot and fast while hard maple is good for longer burns. Elm is sort of middle of the road but depends a lot on how it has been split. If it was cut green and split, it ends up all stringy and loose and will burn fast. If it was dead and the bark fallen off, it will burn much better.
Remember that the larger the split, the better it will hold for a longer burn. Rounds work good for this too.
- Status
