connect insert to liner

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qwain76

Member
Feb 16, 2014
14
Chicagoland
I had a FireplaceX Elite insert installed last winter but I had some concerns from the very beginning about some parts of the installation.

In particular I did not like the way the insert was connected to the liner. The installer put a couple of bolts and then he just put some refractory cement around it.
Towards the end of the season I realized that, while the insert was running, much heat was coming out from the crack between the fireplace and the cover plate of the insert and I guessed the heat was coming from the insert-liner connection.
Yesterday I disassembled the front cover of the insert and that is what I found (check picture below). The cement was all cracked and there is not much holding the two parts together.

I am also worried because the old surrounding of the fireplace is wood and having all this heat escaping towards the wood frame does not make me feel very safe either.

Is this the best way to connect the liner to the insert?
Are there better and more robust ways (clamps, ....)?

Thanks
Insert connection.JPG
 
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Lopi inserts come with 3 angle brackets that are intended to be used to attach the liner to the stove. It even comes with the self-drilling screws. If you have the owners manual they might still be with it. Right by the instructions! ;lol For the most part the cement is a joke, it dries up and falls off. That unit will make heat behind the panels, sealing the flue at the top is a must to prevent the heat from escaping. A block off plate is even better.

I'm really concerned about the wood around the fireplace! Can we have more info about that?
 
Thanks for the reply.

The connection between the liner and the insert, in my case, is not done with the 3 brackets. There is a sort of fitting with a restriction (see picture below), this fitting is connected to the liner with 3 self tapping screws. The fitting reduces slightly the diameter and is dropped into the insert (see pics below).

The second picture shows you the fireplace with the insert, to which I removed the front plate cover. I know the distance between the edge of the opening and the combustible mantel is not within the regulations, but the distance between the insert door and the wood frame it is.
However, the heat coming out from the liner/flue connection worries me and I am thinking to make some changes to the frame. Do you have any suggestion about it too?

image (1).jpeg image.jpeg

I can send more pics if needed.
 
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Is there any more wood around the opening other than the mantel and the side legs of the mantel?

It needs the angle brackets to attach the liner to the stove. I've never seen a stovetop adapter that would eliminate the need for a secure connection.
 
that is the right fitting you just need the brackets to attach it clearances look pretty close double check them with the manual they might be ok though.
 
Also, That stovetop adaptor should have a band clamp that attaches the liner to it. The way it is really shouldn't pose any real issues, things like this just typically point to other issues.
 
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If the "bolts" are into the liner that is fine. Yeah the three brackets to the adapter would be great but that liner ain't going anywhere. The mustard around it was stupid. At the least it should have been furnace cement but it is sealing fine.

Lot of stove behind the surround and heat is gonna get out somehow. Why people put stoves out into the room when they can.
 
If the "bolts" are into the liner that is fine. Yeah the three brackets to the adapter would be great but that liner ain't going anywhere. The mustard around it was stupid. At the least it should have been furnace cement but it is sealing fine.

Lot of stove behind the surround and heat is gonna get out somehow. Why people put stoves out into the room when they can.
From what I can tell, the liner is screwed to the stovetop adaptor and not attached to the stove at all. A pressure fit is a real bad idea on an insert. It can pop out very easily when the chimney brush is reversed.

I'm concerned that fireplace face has been refaced using wood framing.
 
RLH makes an adapter that clamps on the inside for Travis products. Open the by-pass and and check it from there.
 
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