Connecting Stove pipe to Dual walled chimney pipe (existing and boxed in)

Apex_predetor Posted By Apex_predetor, Oct 15, 2012 at 3:38 PM

  1. Apex_predetor

    Apex_predetor
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    Oct 13, 2012
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    by looking at it, how do ya know it is only 1700 pipe?
     
  2. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    10+ years in the industry. Many years both installing & tearing that stuff out. It's air cooled, that why the insulation is stuffed in the gap. It kept the cold air from coming into the fireplace cavity after the DV unit was installed.
     
  3. Apex_predetor

    Apex_predetor
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    yup, I placed insulation in there. I'm trying to look up code right now. I see you are in NY. IS that the Code in NY; 2100 degree rating?

    Thanks for the help.
     
  4. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    No, it's National per NFPA-211.
     
  5. pyrojoe

    pyrojoe
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    I'm no expert, but doesn't air need to be able to flow through the cavity between the two pipes to keep the outer wall cool? I wouldn't go stuffing insulation in there if you're not sure what you're doing. But agreed this is a mute point. Spend a few hundred bucks for some class A at the nearest box store and be sure you have a safe install. It's worth it!
     
  6. SteveKG

    SteveKG
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    Well, yes, proper safe pipe is needed, absolutely. But for 30' + it isn't gonna be a few hundred bucks, it'll be a few thousand with the thimble and etc.

    Good news is, it'll be a one-time investment.
     
  7. Apex_predetor

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    I just found this on the NYS public codes website:

    http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/st/ny/st/b400v07/st_ny_st_b400v07_10_sec002.htm

    R1002.3 Solid fuel appliances. Factory-built chimneys for use with solid fuel-burning appliances shall comply with the Type HT requirements of UL 103. As I read the HT-103 it appears that it can be rated at 1700 or 2100 degrees?
    I don't see any mention of the NFPA-211 in the NYS REsidential building code, and it appears that the NYS code is a bit more lax?

    so confusing....
     
  8. Apex_predetor

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    I put the insulation in there just to stop draft after it was abandoned. I didn't plan on using it with the insulation in it. thanks for the concern though.

    So where is the break line between the 1700 and the 2100 degree pipe? I mean what applications are the 1700 degree pipe used for? This was built only in 2005.
     
  9. pyrojoe

    pyrojoe
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    Didn't catch the 30' or that it's thru-wall, sorry. But either way if you're handy you can do it for much less than a few thousand.
     
  10. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    The 1700 degree stuff is used for open ZC fireplaces. There is so much air being sucked out of your house thru the chimney, that the temperature in the pipe doesn't get as hot.
     
  11. Apex_predetor

    Apex_predetor
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    all starting to come together.

    ARe there any retrofits that can be done to the existing pipe?
     
  12. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    Not for what you want to do...
     
  13. Apex_predetor

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    Looks as if HT UL-103 stands for "High Temp" 103 as compared to the regular UL-103 (1700 degrees)
     
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  14. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    NOTE: This thread has been merged with another by the OP. Both are in reference to the same subject matter...
    Daksy
     
  15. Apex_predetor

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    what if the insides of the Box surround were not combistible materials (like durock). Then would it be ok? Or if the clearances were in addition to any clearance to combustible material?
     
  16. Apex_predetor

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    Ok, NEw pipe or no woodstove it is. Wouldn't want to take the chance on using that pipe with toddler, and infant on the way!

    Thanks for all of the help here guys. I really appreciate the help.

    Great forum.

    Good luck to all and have a happy (and safe) holiday!
     

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